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Distibutor won't turn
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FIFTIES CRUISER
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:09 pm    Post subject: Distibutor won't turn Reply with quote

Hi, Gradually bit by bit my Zephyr engine is running better and better. The only problem I seem to have now is slight pinking under load. I'm running on 4 star leaded which I believe is 99.7 octane rating. Obviouly I need to retard the ignition. I'm only able to do this on the vernier adjustment and it is set fully retarded. I've released the pinch bolt on the dizzy but it won;t turn. Any ideas gratefully received.
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Glenn Crawford
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suspect you need to apply:
1) penetrating oil
2) heat (carefully)
3) force (even more carefully so as not to damage the distributor body)
4) patience. Repeat at daily intervals until fed up!
It's probably no more than a bit of rust, but the surface area which can go rusty could be big enough to cause a headache.
If it really won't come undone, have you considered cheating by decreasing the contact breaker gap by 15% or so? The distributor cam will hit the heel of the points later, that is, retarding the ignition.
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UKdave2002
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn Crawford wrote:
If it really won't come undone, have you considered cheating by decreasing the contact breaker gap by 15% or so? The distributor cam will hit the heel of the points later, that is, retarding the ignition.



If you do this get yourself a dwell meter, then you can retard the ignition accurately, in fact if you need to set points at all use a dwell meter!! Its what the trade do.
If it’s a 4 cylinder engine and you change the dwell by 6 degrees, the instant of opening the points will be changed by 3 degree’s, but 3 degree’s on the distributor cam is 6 degrees on the crank, so its quite easy.

You can get ( I’ve just bought one) a really handy automotive multimeter from Maplin for less than £20 , which will measure RPM, Dwell as well as all your normal meter functions. http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=46449&criteria=automotive%20meter&doy=31m7

The disadvantage of decreasing the gap is that you wear points out a bit quicker .
Dave
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FIFTIES CRUISER
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 9:10 pm    Post subject: Dizzy won't turn Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for your advice.
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FIFTIES CRUISER
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 9:11 pm    Post subject: Dizzy won't turn Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for your advice.
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UKdave2002
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry forgot to mention you could try a slightly cooler plug to stop the pinking.

Dave
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FIFTIES CRUISER
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 8:54 pm    Post subject: Spark plug heat range Reply with quote

I'm using NGK BP5ES at present. would one change of number be sufficient? Cheers.
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UKdave2002
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With NGK the higher the number the cooler the plug, so try a BP6ES.
For ref changing ignition timing by 10° will result in the tip temperature to alter by approx. 75°-100° C


keep an eye on them as there is more chance they will foul up and you could get a misfire.



Dave
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FIFTIES CRUISER
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:59 pm    Post subject: Pinking. Dizzy problems. Reply with quote

Hi, thanks for the advice. Ive fitted NGK BPR6ES plugs and had a go at applying some releasing fuid to the dizzy base. Prior the this the points gap was correctly set. By setting the vernier adjustment fully retarded the points won't fully close. also when I turn the dizzy the rotor arm and cam turn with it thus doing nothing to alter the points gap.

Cheers , Des
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