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Brake line flaring
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dalbuie



Joined: 24 Dec 2007
Posts: 408
Location: Gullane

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Yep its 1/4 " pipe and the brake nuts will be 7/16, again they come in both 20 & 24 TPI.

Dave


24 TPI?

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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as brake upgrades go, I hadnt thought that one was needed for mine, then I saw one tested. The 60 -0 mph distance was reduced from 230' to 135' If that isnt worthwhile, nothing is.

Regarding the brake nipples, I've ony got 20TPI listed for US vehicles. I can check again though if you wish.
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dalbuie



Joined: 24 Dec 2007
Posts: 408
Location: Gullane

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top speed for the Chevy in original condition will be 50 and the original brakes have kept her stopping for close on 70 years so I'll hopefully keep them as is Laughing

I've found a couple of suppliers for the 24TPI brake nuts - the bleed nipples are 20TPI.

The 'best laid plans' of course may be altered as the build continues.
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SloResto



Joined: 17 Feb 2008
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all,

Re copper brake lines - as far as I know they are illegal in Australia as they are deemed too to be too easy to fracture. I was supplied with mild steel with a copper coating.

Is this composition what you mean by "copper" brake lines? My Ph1 vanguards take a 7/16 open ring brake nut spanner but I cannot recall the OD of the lines... and am too lazy to go out and measure em.

cheers
Mark
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont know about the UK nay more, but over here we have 3 kinds of brake pie material. Copper, which as you say sloresto, fractures like crazy. A copper nickel alloy, which is OK but virtually indistinguishable from the first. Finally, a coated steel...

The way I see things, the way to go is coated steel. So what if it ends up corroding? At least new ones can be made if you have the tool, and as the old saying goes, better safe than sorry!

It is possible to buy seamless stainless brake pipe as well, which could be the best option, though I have been told it needs special tools to manufacture pipes from this...
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21215
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Am I the only person that thinks shiny copper brake pipes look a bit OTT under the bonnet of many classics? Although they may not last as long, I much prefer the look of grey steel lines rather than shiny copper. Not perhaps a very practical viewpoint I admit, purely cosmetic Smile

R
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick, I agree fully with you on that point, although I must admit, none of my cars have ever looked perfect under the bonnet...
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21215
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uncle Joe wrote:
.. none of my cars have ever looked perfect under the bonnet...


hehe I'm with you on that one Wink

Rick
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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dalbuie



Joined: 24 Dec 2007
Posts: 408
Location: Gullane

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking of getting a roll of CUPRO NICKEL.

It's reasonably priced and doesn't have that central heating look Laughing is this a reasonable compromise?
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you decide to go for cupro nickel (the copper nickel alloy that I referred to earlier) then you MUST use brass fittings with it. The reasoning behind this is that zinc and copper are atagonistic.

So therefore your choices are, copper/nickel and brass fittings, or coated steel and zinc plated fittings.

Your car, your choice
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dalbuie



Joined: 24 Dec 2007
Posts: 408
Location: Gullane

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers.

There doesn't seem to be a big supply of fittings in the 7/16 24TPI range so I may be curtailed to what's available.

Any recommendations on suppliers?
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Uncle Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly someone like Kanters in the US can help. I could ask around my usual suppliers if you wish, but dont forget that I am not living in the UK.

The 24tpi bit has me fascinated. I looked through all of my thread listings today, and couldnt come up with that one. SAE (UNF) only have two options, 20tpi and 28tpi (a special one). BSC have 26tpi, and BSF 18tpi. Sometimes it feels as though the more I get involved with classics, the less I know! Shocked
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21215
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried people such as Carters in the US? there are plenty of Chevy parts places over in the US who could probably ship a kit of bits, or have you tried that route already??

R
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Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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dalbuie



Joined: 24 Dec 2007
Posts: 408
Location: Gullane

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are plenty of suppliers in the USA and on ebay. I was hoping to get something in the UK.

Every bolt I remove seems to raise 3 questions Laughing although I'm still enjoying it.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3524
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will post some links for UK suppliers in the morning, on my blackberry at the moment, so a bit limited.dave
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