Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Churchill Johnson]

Would you mind quoting the steering worm and nut price.

[Gerrit]

Thats a difficult question.
The company Basco stated that they will probably never do this for the price I got.
It was for them more a thing to do and see if it was possible.
The precision in this company is very high.
Beside that do you have driver on left side as on mainland europe or are you in UK and driver is on right side ?
Steering gear is complete the other way around.

You can ask the price your self.
The preprogrammed production as they have now is for the left side driver.
I do not know if they can produce the english right side driver version.
But it must be just the other way around.

http://www.bascobv.nl/

Your contact is Kenneth Baselmans.
_________________
owner of:
1970/1975 chassis/rebuild FT Bonito kitcar
1954 Ford 104E
BMW bike K1

http://www.ftbonito.info

[Gerrit]

In this summer i fitted new tires.
Why ? the pictures are clear...
There were 3 different sizes on the car.
And on the back there were tires who best belong to some tractor.
The tires on the back were smaller than on the front but they had much higher weight.

See the pictures :

First two steering house pictures : the old parts...







Then I changed the tyres :











Then a brake check :











High temperature paint dry in the sauna ( the wife was not happy )






Then I started to re build the inside

First i have a question...

WHO has somewhere in the barn a water heater like this picture ?



This picture was taken in a museum in Sweden and i really would like to have a heater !

The results :







Next : building in the headliner cloth and floor carpet.
_________________
owner of:
1970/1975 chassis/rebuild FT Bonito kitcar
1954 Ford 104E
BMW bike K1

http://www.ftbonito.info

[Roger-hatchy]

That looks fantastic
Well done Gerrit

[Rick]

Very nice, that blue and the pale green I think are my favourite Pop colours

RJ
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Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
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[Gerrit]

My engine valves are no good.
I will replace all 8 valves.
One has been leaking you can see on the valve edge.
Some other have much play on the valve guide ( split type )

Now valves are sold at smallfordspares length 111,13 mm
The old valves i have are 110 mm long.

If i buy thes valves i need to shorten them.
How can this be achieved ?

I am familiar with valves grinding in and have the tools.
Looking in the books i must take the valves to the ford dealer and let them shorten the valves... but that was in 1954..


now will the new valves be at higher position as they are new.

but i must shorten them to have the right play on the stem...

inlet valve cilinder 4 :


_________________
owner of:
1970/1975 chassis/rebuild FT Bonito kitcar
1954 Ford 104E
BMW bike K1

http://www.ftbonito.info

[Rick]

Welcome back, yes in 1954 the Ford dealer would grind down the top of the valve to bring it to the correct length, before grinding in the seat of the valve to the head in the usual way.

RJ
_________________
Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop

[roverdriver]

Gerrit, the process of shortening mushroom stem Ford valves is easy. The same valve style was used in the Model A. Grind the end of the stem, dipping in water frequently to avoid heating the stem too much. Grind off sufficient material, but not too much, to allow for clearance needed when you lap the valves, and when lapped, very carefully grind little by little test fitting in between until correct clearance is obtained.

Of course the ground face must be smooth, flat and at right angle to the stem.

The beauty of the Ford mushroom ended valve is that once it is set up properly, there is no need for any further adjustment until the next valve grind.
_________________
Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[Gerrit]

Hello Roverdriver,

Thanks for the answer i thought it had to be something like that.
I did study the stems from the old valves.
It looks like someone has taken a file to shorten the stem.

Have a nice day upside down there in Australia !

I wil keep the site here updated on the repairs..

Gerrit.
_________________
owner of:
1970/1975 chassis/rebuild FT Bonito kitcar
1954 Ford 104E
BMW bike K1

http://www.ftbonito.info

[Gerrit]

The previous year I have heard a barking sound…
So I started repair.

Radiator.
Cylinder head off, dynamo carburettor etc…
Distributor was stuck in the cylinder head by rust.
Put oil on it and a day later let it scare by hammer and tried to get it out. the bottom tube broke in the head.
I had to remove it by brute force with large hammer.
The distributer was not adjusted for say 30 year or so..
Now I can adjust it..
I had never got this dismounted without damage.

Distributor costs 171 GBP + 75GBP if I not return a service-able old distributor.

I found one on ebay for 77 pound have been possible buy there ..... YES !.

Valves were sharp on the edge so old.
split valve guide worn out.
Camshaft chain rattles.
Gaskets.
Exhaust manifold broken.


Car front dismantled.





There is always a lot of oil on the street if I stop some where.

Yes I want myself a oldtimer
and an English car is defective if it no longer leaks.



after dismantling of the cylinder head


Decarbonizing must be done.


already some valves removed


valve slide base


so deep were the valves


3e Valve was almost new


Sump dismantled look at piston base


Flywheel detail, almost no sump gasket found


detail: redundant oil leaks back though the pipe…


Sump in the sun


2 cm sludge, now I can have use of it when I do an oil change.


Sump painted.


camshaft gear .


Camshaft chain,new was 8 mm shorter.


right mirror there also set up.


detail mirror on door mount.


engine number


right side under the hood.


left side.


new absorber support front.


adjusting absorber bolts by a real profession man (72 jr)


the assembled absorber.
Paruzzi 001356 shock absorber (oil) low couple
for the attentive reader: YES… a Beetle absorber back side low model.

Now English quality .......
For years I involve components of Small Ford Spares UK
to on this time to full satisfaction.

But it is no German Grundlichkeit

Exhaust manifold not ok.


Valve guide really not good..


the other side.


Gear lever gaiter rubber much too small.
caused gear to jump out off second gear.

The result:
Engine makes less noise. (camshaft chain 8 mm shorter)
More horsepower ( in and out valve ports polished and ignition adjusted)
Exhaust manifold is not leaking. (The bad spot does not leak.)

Road behaviour has improved enormously by the new shock absorbers.
the old absorbers in front did not work at all.
_________________
owner of:
1970/1975 chassis/rebuild FT Bonito kitcar
1954 Ford 104E
BMW bike K1

http://www.ftbonito.info

[Gerrit]

I hope i explain my problem ok..
If i want to drive firmly away at the traffic light the car starts shudder.
So i press on the gas pedal full and let the clutch pedal come up.
If the car gets in a hole in the street if stopped i cannot drive on without a shuddering car.
Now is my question what parts wil be needed to solve the problem.
Perhaps some experienced ford 103 driver can give an answer here.
I am aware that the engine needs to get out.
Clutch disk will be replaced.
But are there other parts there which i must order ?

Thanks in advance for answers !
_________________
owner of:
1970/1975 chassis/rebuild FT Bonito kitcar
1954 Ford 104E
BMW bike K1

http://www.ftbonito.info

[Farmer John]

Hello, what a good looking car you have!
Two points
First. How is the steering linkage arranged so that the LHD and RHD steering boxes pull the drag link in opposite directions?
Second, re clutch shudder. Keeping the engine/gearbox from moving under load is most important. If there is no sliding joint in the torque tube then the engine/gearbox mounts need to handle all of the drive loads as well as normal engine torque.. The slightest free movement is almost certain to result in clutch shudder. Is there a stabiliser rod or link to prevent backwards and forwards movement of the assembly? Very important that such a link will have no movement at all.

John

[Gerrit]

[Farmer John]

Hi, Gerrit is it?
Let me see if I can explain the movement we need to eliminate.
When you operate the clutch each part of the system will operate in a certain direction. Let us say you are slowly lifting your foot to move off. As the engine takes up the load it might move rotationally, or longitudinally. If this movement acts in such a way as to move the linkage to disengage the clutch a cycle of events begins which will result in shuddering. Your foot is involved as that will bounce as well as the engine and rear axle. Soon your pretty little car looks like a rabbit!
If the linkage acts to make the clutch engage as a result of load or engine torque, then it will grab, what is called "snatch", and you will leave the start line while the MGs are still building up revs.
Even if you had the floor out and watched very carefully it is most unlikely that you would be able to see the train of events. That is why I have tried to explain further how important it is that all of the engine/gearbox locating components are 100%, and also the role played by the longitudinal struts.
If there is play somewhere a new clutch plate and pressure plate assembly will act exactly the same as your present ones.

John

[Gerrit]

got the car back from winter garage to my workshop.
I was playing with your solution in my mind and wanted to know what is wrong.
First i replaced the 2 gearbox mount rubbers.
Normally you would dismount the floor panels but i did it from the underside.
Its tricky but got it right.
Test drive was a disappointment the shudder was slightly les but still very hard.
After dinner i went check the 2 rods witch are on each side of the engine block.
And there i found the problem.
There are 2 supporting parts witch are each bolted with 2 bolts.
Bolts were lose !
After mounting the whole i made a test drive and problem solved.


Problem I made myself by not fastening bolts during mounting sump.

John thanks for responce and a Good and Healthy 2015 for you and your family !
_________________
owner of:
1970/1975 chassis/rebuild FT Bonito kitcar
1954 Ford 104E
BMW bike K1

http://www.ftbonito.info