Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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kevin2306
Joined: 01 Jul 2013 Posts: 1359 Location: nr Llangollen, north wales
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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stevel98 wrote: | These "old" oils are plain rubbish. The cans may look good on a garage shelf but the contents are probably just recycled oil.
A good quality oil, is worth spending money on especially a decent synthetic as they lubricate way better than the old mineral stuff and last almost indefinately, so it works out cheaper. Not all sythetics are thin either.
My 150k mile Corvette uses Mobil1 Extended life 10w60 and is changed every two years or 20k miles. The old oil is still very good and is in fact filtered though muslin and reused by my neighbour for his Morris Oxford!
btw.. Duckhams was bought out by BP over 45years ago, and the green 20w50 oil we get so misty eyed about was in fact BP Visco-Static with a green dye.
Don't skimp on oil, its just not worth it for a cute old timey can.. |
I know this will start a right old discussion but... I disagree stevel98
From my experience with older engines (over 30 years now ) the best way forward is to use a good quality 20/50 oilhttp://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=251 and change at regular intervals (I do 2 oil changes a year regardless of the low miles we cover).
Way cheaper than a rebuild.
I am a dinosaur though!
Kev |
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | but the contents are probably just recycled oil | That's just silly. They are fine. |
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D4B
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 2083 Location: Hampshire UK
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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I say that older cars need older spec oils ~ just what was designed for them.
I have a slightly modern example of this, while in a motor factors the other day the guy behind the counter tried to sell a fully synthetic oil to a Peugeot Diesel specialist,
he said no thanks, if you put that in it will just leak out,
and went away with standard old 15W40 oil |
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Old Wrench
Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Ah, the old "Oil" topic rears it's head again.
Useful info here:
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&ved=0CE8QFjAH&url=http%3A%2F%2Faustin-somerset.org%2FPublications%2FPenrite%2Fvvc-questions-and-answers.pdf&ei=oce-U8uWEsKyPJKbgcgM&usg=AFQjCNGLiKFFxcWlXWCx4VN85hZh4JafDg&bvm=bv.70138588,d.ZGU
What must be remembered is modern engines operate at much higher speeds and burn temperatures: Hi Temp-Lean Burn, to massively reduce emissions.
Older engines, such as the Herald were long stroke, small bore, not "Over Square".
In competition engines back in the late 1960s and early 1970s, particularly such as BMC A series, e.g. Cooper s we aimed to operate at speed at around 80 PSI hot.
And always using a large oil cooler, too.
In order to preserve the integrity of older mains and ends, particularly, it is critical to maintain an excellent oil film between the bearings and the crankshaft journal bearings.
Modern low viscosity synthetic and semi-synthetic oils cannot produce sufficient oil film cushion on older car engines.
BTW; we used to race using both Duckhams 20-50 and/or a generic 20-50 which was in fact standard Elf-Aquitaine, supplied unbranded from my then petrol suppliers. And I paid just fifty pence/gallon bulk price. (1969).
Eventually my racing offshoot had sponsorship from Duckhams so all the oil (and everything else!) was free; for eight cars and the season. Happier days. For the main single seater we used Castrol R (Straight Castor), mainly since it was the only oil capable of ensuring film strength and the engine builder insisted on it.
One other factor to be careful about is sludging, due to poor crankcase ventilation. It was a huge (and costly!) problem for Ford UK, on early Anglia 1200c.c. and early 1,340 engines too. A primary causer was Castrol's "new" high detergent oil! Ooops!
So really the choice is simple, for the older car: straight SAE 30/40 Winter and Straight SAE 40/50 Summer or Multigrade 20/50 Summer and Winter. |
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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That all makes perfect sense. |
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kevin2306
Joined: 01 Jul 2013 Posts: 1359 Location: nr Llangollen, north wales
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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petermeachem wrote: | That all makes perfect sense. |
Great advice. I always put a capful of castrol r in the lawnmower fuel..smells fantastic
Kev |
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Old Wrench
Joined: 23 Dec 2013 Posts: 226 Location: Essex and France
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Yes indeed, Kevin, nothing like the haze of blue smoke and squealing tyres (more smoke!) of the fabulous old - real - racing cars we used to watch............ and the magic smell.
Which is another aspect, too: older engines were designed to burn oil:. For example, from new, the earlier Jag 3.4s at speed, burned one pint every 100 miles or so.
Quite normal: whereas today a guy who just purchased a new car and found it burning oil would be straight to the dealer banging on the table!
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ka
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
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Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:28 am Post subject: |
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The Morgan Threewheeler Club, is lucky enough to have a genius as a member, who heads the development team at a major oil manufacturers.
He gives the advise for the perfect oil grade and quality for Morgans, but I will stick to the Ford engined ones here.
The comments earlier back up his advice, he always commented that a supermarket 20/50, changed more regularly is better that a more expensive oil, changed less frequently.
I use a branded 20/50, changes at 1000 mile intervals (it gets topped up more often as it 'self-changes'!) but the only important item to ensure the oil is old style enough to comply with the standed that requires it to provide protection at areas of extreme pressure, i.e., between the cam and follower. _________________ KA
Better three than four. |
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