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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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Ah yes.... I wonder how I could get an equal thickness oval 'dome' lens type cover?
I have the metal backing with built in bulb holder and will also need to allow for the bulb.
I suppose it needs a two part mould? Not sure yet how to do it.
I will have to give it some thought. Like you, I enjoy finding a way round problems. |
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peter scott
Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7118 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 8:07 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Ray,
Using your good lamp glass I guess you need to grease it and press it into plaster of Paris contained in a cardboard box so that the top of the glass rim is level with the top of the plaster and to about half the depth of the box. When hardened grease all the plaster and glass then fill the box with more plaster to a depth sufficient to ensure strength of the plaster parts.
When hardened cut off the box and split the mould to remove the glass. Then reassemble the mould and strap it together with tape and carefully drill a filling hole down into the centre (backside of finished piece) and possibly four vent holes around the periphery of the new "glass" flange.
Split the mould again and clean out any plaster swarf. Reassemble and tape up before pouring in your resin.
HTH
Peter _________________ http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:23 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Peter.
I can see me doing a few practise moulds before getting it right.!
All good fun. |
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Penman
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4756 Location: Swindon, Wilts.
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
I believe that the model aircraft hobbyists carve out a male or female mould for cockpits and then after placing a sheet of the "plastic" material over the mould use the heat from something like an old fashioned electric fire to soften the plastic enough for it to follow the mould. Perhaps a heat gun would also do it.
It must be possible to find some translucent plastic it seems to be used in roof signs for some taxis/minicabs. _________________ Bristols should always come in pairs.
Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10 |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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Hello Penman, that's an idea similar to what I mentioned in an earlier post. I envisaged using my electric heat gun to soften the plastic.
Thanks for your suggestion. |
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Penman
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4756 Location: Swindon, Wilts.
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
I might have even found a source of translucent plastic an Ovaltine jar with the wrapper removed, it even has a sort of domed profile to start with, being barrel shaped. _________________ Bristols should always come in pairs.
Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10 |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 10:34 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Penman. I will need to investigate further. |
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badhuis
Joined: 20 Aug 2008 Posts: 1390 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:06 am Post subject: |
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Peter, seeing this post again after a few years I have to thank you for the inspiration it provides. It sure made me make more things I would not have thought of before. For example I have made some door panels instead of letting an upholsterer doing that (for much more money).
One thing about the side strip made in brass, would it not have been easier to cut the brass with an angle grinder instead of the hundred holes? Or a dremel with a cutting disc? _________________ a car stops being fun when it becomes an investment |
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peter scott
Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7118 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 12:49 am Post subject: |
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I think a Dremel would be rather slow with 1/4" thick brass but an angle grinder might have been easier although 20 years ago I had still to learn of the joys of such tools.
Today I am inclined to buy tools just to aid the job in hand but back then I was more penny pinching and tended to make do with what I already had (which was pretty basic).
There is a certain amount of fun in making things with minimal facilities too.
Peter _________________ http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6313 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:03 am Post subject: |
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Also on the subject of making parts, we might have to make the odd repair patch and weld it our classic car but I wish I had taken photos of the repair I did to my Triumph GT6 many years ago.
One of the most common rust traps (and also one of the most unsightly) is in the roof seam that runs across the top of the windscreen. I cut out the rusted section and recreated the whole seam from new metal. I then welded this new "seam" in between the roof and the screen frame. The front edge was then carefully filed to shape.
The job took goodness how many hours of trial and error before getting it to look just right.
I then discovered that a repair section front roof panel was available!
It hadn't occurred to me that such a panel could be bought off the shelf.
You live and learn |
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