Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Chosenview
Joined: 23 Mar 2015 Posts: 3
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:02 am Post subject: Painting methods |
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Hi all newbee here - I'm restoring the bodywork of a 70's truck.
The total restoration can be seen www.pearman.cc/blog
At least trying do the body, as I've not done anything like this before. I'm having to do it outside but under cover. Can I get some advice on methods?
So far I've worked out I can use weld through primer before welding seams. Then remove what primer is visible and apply seam sealant. I'm then using dinatrol filler and sanding smooth. Here is where I'm stuck.
I had thought to use an epoxy primer as they are non porous and will be ok outside waiting for me to be ready to paint, is that right?
I can only work on sections at a time and it's going to take months. Some of the epoxy primers I have looked at suggest you only have 7 days with which to paint over(obviously that's no good for me, are they all like that?). I think I want to paint it a sandy or grey colour and I don't want it glossy.
Do I need to match the primer with the paint ? And will I then need lacquer coats. I have a compressor and spray gun
I have been surfing painting suppliers but its soooo confusing.
I was hoping not to have to take all the paint off the truck and just deal with the rust areas and the drips where the previous owner used a paint brush. So the primer needs to go over filler, bare steel and existing paint.
Any advice?
Steve |
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D4B
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 2083 Location: Hampshire UK
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:27 pm Post subject: |
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Welcome here Steve,
Wow that is quite some resto you have on there, fantastic. Hope you don't mind I have borrowed one of your pictures to upload on here for all to see. We do like our photos you know.
Whilst I am probably not the right person to advise you on all things paint, I am sure someone will be along shortly. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Steve |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4104 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Steve
Welcome to the forum
"Traditional" primers need a top coat on within hours, as they will absorb moisture, normally resulting in micro blistering some time later; can be days can be months. So Epoxy primer is the way to go, have a look at the rustbuster web site.
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust-proofing-paint/c28117/#
Re the top coat, I'd talk to your local paint supplier, paint can be supplied either as a base colour that needs a lacquer, or with the gloss built in. Matting agents can be added to reduce the gloss right down o a matt finish
Cheers
Dave |
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Chosenview
Joined: 23 Mar 2015 Posts: 3
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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That link seems to take you to a product that goes straight onto steel and needs no topcoat. Too good to be true? I'll look into it though |
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Chosenview
Joined: 23 Mar 2015 Posts: 3
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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Made contact with Ian at rust.co.uk. Here is his reply. Just what is was looking for. Great first thread result - thanks
--------------------------------------
Hi Steve
Yes you can two coats to make sure you haven't missed any where. Remember the better the prep the better the finish.
Ian
-----Original Message----- From: Squirrelmail
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 4:08 PM
To: Rustbuster Ltd
Subject: Re: Any advice? [Scanned by Freecom.net]
thanks Ian.
So i can weld/fill and seal etc then paint with 421 and leave undercover till all done and then get it overpainted? even over winter as long as i lightly sand it before paint
the primer will be happy going over old paint as well as bare steel/filler and pu sealant
i want to be clear as i'll post the reply on a restoration forum - where i got your contact from
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17087
steve
On 23 Mar 2015, at 15:05, "Rustbuster Ltd" <sales> wrote:
Hi Steve
The Epoxy Mastic 121 is ok exposed and is used on the bed, the floor, the underside and the suspension. The 421 primer can be used and left in primer as well for the duration of the restoration. Both will need a light sanding prior to being painted if left for over two weeks. The primer does not have to match the paint specifically unless you are going straight over with a single pack top coat enamel, then it would be best to match as near as possible.
Both of these products can be applied over old paint coatings.
Hope this answers your questions
Rusty regards
Ian
Rustbuster Ltd
-----Original Message----- From: Squirrelmail
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 2:18 PM
To: sales@rust.co.uk
Subject: Any advice? [Scanned by Freecom.net]
Hi. I'm restoring the bodywork of a 70's truck. At least trying to, as I've not done anything like this before. I'm having to do it outside but under cover. Can I get some advice on methods? So far I've worked out I can use weld through primer before welding seams. Then remove what primer is visible and apply seam sealant. I'm then using dinatrol filler and sanding smooth. Here is where I'm stuck. I had thought to use an epoxy primer as they are non porous and will be ok outside waiting for me to be ready to paint, is that right?
I can only work on sections at a time and it's going to take months. Some of the epoxy primers I have looked at suggest you only have 7 days with which to paint over(obviously that's no good for me, are they all like that?). I think I want to paint it a sandy or grey colour and I want it matt. Do I need to match the primer with the paint ? And will I then need lacquer coats. I have a compressor and spray gun
I was hoping not to have to take all the paint off the truck and just deal with the rust areas and the drips where the previous owner used a paint brush. So the primer needs to go over filler, bare steel and existing paint.
Any advice?
I was looking at your 121 epoxy mastic
Steve |
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