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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3816 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:52 am Post subject: Sealer |
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Question.
I have read a lot of people simply spray primer straight on over filler/old paint etc but recently a few books I have looked in recommend using a 'sealer' coat first before applying primer.
I will be using Cellulose for primer and top coats.
The professionals seem to say one thing and the home restorers another. Many of our friends simply spray straight on out in the open also not using tack cloths etc. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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MikeEdwards
Joined: 25 May 2011 Posts: 2471 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:34 am Post subject: |
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I think this is another issue where the more you research, the more conflicting advice you get. I'm looking at paint for mine, fortunately sealer isn't something I've had to worry about as I've taken it back to bare metal. The issue is if the new paint you put on causes a reaction with existing paint layers - I guess it depends on how much you know about the existing paint. |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3816 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 11:56 am Post subject: |
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You're right, there is a lot of conflicting information. A lot of books are aimed at someone wanting or aiming to get a concours finish. I am spraying a lorry that I want to look good but if there are blemishes it won't look too out of place. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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peppiB
Joined: 30 Jun 2008 Posts: 686 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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Depends what the existing paint is. Cellulose will not cover 2K without a reaction (although 2K will cover cellulose) The commonly used barrier coating is like thick 'pink medicine' and gives off really obnoxious fumes, but it does prevent differing paints reacting with each other |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3816 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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The paint that is still on the cab is a thin rubbed down layer of Johnsons Red Oxide. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Phil - Nottingham
Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1252 Location: Nottingham
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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I have always used Barcoat which is waterbased and dries very fast. A very thin coat is all that is required _________________ Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2 |
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ajlelectronics
Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Posts: 168 Location: Gloucester
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Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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The very best method is to use epoxy primer. That will not react and does not behave hydroscopically, unlike conventional types. No Isocyanates, so safe to spray. _________________ Evans Waterless Coolants
Find this and more at http://www.classicmicrocars.com
Sat TV / Aerial systems etc: http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 9:57 pm Post subject: |
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If the top coat is not going to applied to the primer within a few hours of priming, then I agree Epoxy is the way to go
Many a respray has been spoiled weeks / months later when the moisture that primer has absorbed ( and it can only take hours) reappears as micro blisters in the top coat
Exposed filler will also absorb moisture, if you can get back to bare metal where filiter has previously been applied it's worth it.
Dave |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3816 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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So, is it ok to use epoxy primer then cellulose for the top coats? _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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MikeEdwards
Joined: 25 May 2011 Posts: 2471 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 10:29 am Post subject: |
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I hope so, that's what I'm doing. Although to be fair, it's not quite cellulose, it's a modern equivalent 1-pack paint in my case. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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Rootes75 wrote: | So, is it ok to use epoxy primer then cellulose for the top coats? |
Absolutely fine.
What you will find is that epoxy primer wont "fill" so you may have to use a high build primer over an epoxy primer. This is where a professional approach would be different as time is of the essence. A professional would be using a climate controlled environment and would apply a single primer, flatten and top coat, in a short space of time; we don't have that luxury, hence the different advice you may have been given.
If you do plan to strip, repair, prime and gloss in a very short space of time in non humid conditions, then an etch primer could be used rather than epoxy , or if the metal is very sound just a normal primer and then gloss.
you mentioned tack cloths in the initial post, they are a godsend in removing anything loose on the surface, combined with proper panel wipe that will not only degrease, but absorb surface moisture from filled or primed paint. both of the latter enemy's of paint tend to occur more in DIY workshops, than in a professional paint shop, and professionals allays use tack cloths and proper panel wipe (not thinners!).
Dave |
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