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JC T ONE
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1139 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:30 am Post subject: Radiator water leaking into the oil |
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Hi all,
I have a technical question (or two) = pulled the oil stick on the Daimler V8 the other day, and oil level was above max
Then I removed the radiator cap, and saw the water level was only 2 third up in the radiator
Tonight I then wanted to see if my suspicion was right, so I removed the drain plug, and sure enough, some water came out first
but only a small amount = less than half a cup (if that much ?) then immediately followed by Black oil. I didnt know if its a combustion chamber that have leaked or what ? but the engine turns freely = gave it a few full turns.
My question(s) are as follows = could there be water in the oilfilter ? cant see how it should get there ? then there is a matter of checking the engine, to see if I still can use it ?
I am thinking of draining the rest of the water, pour some oil into her, and then start her, and while she is running start pouring fresh water mixed with cylender block sealer into the radiator - how do that sound ?
Something like this = http://gobdp.com/blog/repairing-cracked-engine-block/
My other idea, was to use a Webasto engine heater, on the cooling system, pour the water & sealer in, and leave it running for half an hour, without starting the engine.
That way I dont risk ruining new oil, as I will not fit the oil drain plug , this way I can see if the water leak stop, before I fit the plug.
Any thoughts or better ideas are welcome
Ohh and before you start commenting = here is the story on the engine.
I found it in a very sad state the alloy between all spark plug holes in the heads, were cracked (big chunks of alloy separated from the heads)
The block was cracked on the middle half way up, and all frost plugs were pushed out.
I had the heads & pieces welded back together, and the block was also welded up.
The engine was not 100% sealed first time, so I used some engine sealer for the radiator system, and it worked used her for more than 10 years, without any problems at all.
Jens Christian _________________ http://www.eurods.eu/wp/index.html |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:56 am Post subject: |
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Head gasket, perhaps? |
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PAUL BEAUMONT
Joined: 27 Nov 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Barnsley S. Yorks
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Jens, If you have recovered it from that level of disaster and it has been trouble free for 10 years and the quantity of water is very small I suspect that a weld somewhere has become porous or your previous sealer has given up. I would change the oil and try more radiator sealer before attempting anything more fundamental. Here's to the next 10 years!! |
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Farmer John
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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Hello Jens, exactly as Paul said, new oil fresh water new sealant. Even if it costs you two oil changes and two filters you are way ahead!
Good work resuscitating and using the engine for so long against such odds!
John |
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JC T ONE
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1139 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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Hi guys
Thanks for your nice compliments, and advice
Someone suggested that the water might come from condensation, but I really dont think so (given the history of it)
I used Holts engine sealer last time, and it worked really nice.
Back then there was no chemical metal, that would have been handy.
I did buy a spare engine last summer
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17427&highlight=
but that will also take a lot of work to get going, and I am one of them types that dont like to throw away things, especially if they can be repaired.
Jens Christian _________________ http://www.eurods.eu/wp/index.html |
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Whitegoatie
Joined: 01 Feb 2016 Posts: 59 Location: Stamford, Lincolnshire
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JC T ONE
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1139 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, but I know where its leaking, so that wont be an option, I want to see if I can seal it again, before I do any more work.
If it wont seal, ill just put in the original B18B engine I have for her. _________________ http://www.eurods.eu/wp/index.html |
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Lanchester 1953
Joined: 05 May 2016 Posts: 34
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Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 11:37 pm Post subject: |
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has anyone any idea which is the best rad/cylinder head seal? My Lanchester 14 is losing water, where from I don't know. No steamy exhausts anyway. |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22449 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 8:41 am Post subject: |
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Lanchester 1953 wrote: | has anyone any idea which is the best rad/cylinder head seal? My Lanchester 14 is losing water, where from I don't know. No steamy exhausts anyway. |
I've cured minor leaks in the past with K-Seal, much better than Radweld IMO. Last time I used the latter it gummed up my heater tap, so I've not touched it since. I have however used K-Seal on a couple of occasions with success. Although if the leak is serious, it would warrant a deeper investigation.
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop |
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goneps
Joined: 18 Jun 2013 Posts: 601 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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I've found Redex Soldrit to be good, but sadly I think it's no longer available—I'd be happy to be proved wrong on that point.
Richard |
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JC T ONE
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1139 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 7:35 pm Post subject: More work done |
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Found condensation water in the holes where the spark plug,s are located =
The water can be seen on the socket =
_________________ http://www.eurods.eu/wp/index.html |
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V8 Nutter
Joined: 27 Aug 2012 Posts: 588
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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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These heads were always prone to corrosion, I would guess some of the old welding has failed. K seal is supposed to be the best sealer, but it wont stop a radiator leaking with a 15 lb. cap |
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JC T ONE
Joined: 30 Oct 2008 Posts: 1139 Location: Denmark
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Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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V8 Nutter wrote: | These heads were always prone to corrosion, I would guess some of the old welding has failed. K seal is supposed to be the best sealer, but it wont stop a radiator leaking with a 15 lb. cap |
The Goo you see in the picture is all from above the sparkplugs (in the holes they sit in) not inside.
Bores & pistons are all clean & dry.
Engine spins nice too.
I will connect my Webasto car heater to the cooling system, and run it a few times, while I watch for water at the oil plug hole, and in the cylenders.
Hope to do the test this week. _________________ http://www.eurods.eu/wp/index.html |
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47Jag
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bothwell, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:31 am Post subject: |
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Jens,
Can you get hold of a radiator pressure tester? Pump it up to whatever your cap pressure is and leave it a while and monitor the oil drain for water. If you do get water in a cylinder it will hydraulic lock and won’t turn over.
Is the oil down the spark plug tubes because the tube seal have failed/hardened?
Art |
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47Jag
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bothwell, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Jens,
Can you get hold of a radiator pressure tester? Pump it up to whatever your cap pressure is and leave it a while and monitor the oil drain for water.
Is the oil down the spark plug tubes because the tube seal have failed/hardened?
Art |
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