classic car forum header
Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 
How To Register     Posting Photographs     Privacy Policy     F/book facebook.com/oldclassiccar

1952 Morris Minor Series MM saloon
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration. Forum Index -> Morris
Author Message
Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20180
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the carb today as the choke was jammed on.

A root through a box of goodies (old carbs) did turn up a few donor SUs and a new-old-stock carb body, so if push came to shove I could have used the new one. With the original carb on the bench the stuck jet finally freed off, and with the mechanism fully lubricated it now works correctly. The needle valve is free, and I found a few new gaskets, so I'll re-fit it all tonight or tomorrow.

The only thing I need to find is the little thingy that goes onto the end of choke cable, the thing with the screw head that the cable passes through. I should have one somewhere.

There were a few Moggies at the Dearnford Lake meet this morning, someone there mentioned a big Mog gathering that's due to take place locally in July, so maybe I should try and aim to be ready for that.

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
peterwpg



Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 2223
Location: New Brunswick. Canada

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had some success in restoring the outer ends of threads by using a spare nut, cutting it in half and placing each half around the good inboard section of thread, hold the two halves together with a tight fitting socket ( sometimes a bit of grinding down of the flats is required to get a tight socket fit), then wind off the nut with gentle back and forward motion.
_________________
Peter L
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20180
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterwpg wrote:
I have had some success in restoring the outer ends of threads by using a spare nut, cutting it in half and placing each half around the good inboard section of thread, hold the two halves together with a tight fitting socket ( sometimes a bit of grinding down of the flats is required to get a tight socket fit), then wind off the nut with gentle back and forward motion.


I tried something along those lines with the nut I cut off, but neither thread was in particularly good shape so it didn't work. I bought a new nut, and with the thread restorer, combined with a suitable die & thread file, managed to bring the threads on both halfshafts back to a good standard.

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
goneps



Joined: 18 Jun 2013
Posts: 601
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Mon May 23, 2016 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick wrote:
...the little thingy that goes onto the end of choke cable, the thing with the screw head that the cable passes through.
RJ


In other words, a solderless nipple.

Richard
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20180
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2016 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Progress has continued in fits and starts.

When I fitted the carb I noticed that no matter how many times I tried, I couldn't get the needle to sit happily in the jet (I think the latter is slightly bent), so in the end I built up another carb using the NOS HS2 body that I found.

The fuel tank has been drained, and the fuel line blown through to clear a blockage. The SU pump has been apart to clean the points, and now works correctly, so I can run it from fuel in the tank now, rather than a bottle.

The brakes have been re-bled and adjusted, and are ready for a trial run. The handbrake too has also been adjusted up.

Various bulbs have been replaced, I'm just awaiting a good s/h numberplate lamp that I bought from ebay. The one fitted to it was rotten so will go in the bin shortly.

I also sourced a set of radial tyres to replace the crusty old crossplies that were fitted, they were put onto the rims a week or so back and fitted back on the car this afternoon (after I'd Waxoyled all four wheelarches).

Everything's been greased too.

Outstanding jobs include an oil/filter change, fresh antifreeze plus other underbonnet checks. The semaphore indicators are a little lazy too so will need a dose of looking at. The whole car needs a good clean too, but that can wait until all the important tasks have been done.

Getting there ....!

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20180
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:47 am    Post subject: Morris Minor all four brakes locked on Reply with quote

I've run the engine a few times recently, after changing the oil and filter etc., with the car still up on stands in the garage.

Whether that's the cause or not I'm not sure, but now all four wheels' brakes are locked on solid. The car has a servo. The current list of things to check includes:

- adjustment of the pushrod on the m/cyl, is there free movement
- has the pushrod return spring on the m/cyl fallen off
- something sticking inside the servo
- is the valve in the vacuum pipe to the servo u/s
- has the small rubber "residual pressure valve" been removed in the m/cyl, after the servo was fitted (apparently this is required)

Is there anything else I should be checking?

Last time I looked at the brakes, they were all adjusted up ok, and the pedal worked as normal (engine not running mind), brakes were applying and releasing seemingly ok. But now all four are solid. Hmmmmm

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1458
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick,

Open one of e bleeder screws. That should release any pressure built up.

Art
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3368
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There has been a problem with repro seals in "residual pressure valves" in that they don't release the pressure and after a few strokes of the pedal, the brakes can lock up. If its been removed the brakes will still work , but you will have lost the ability to "pump" the brakes up in the event that there is a problem.

Dave
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20180
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep I'll free off a bleed nipple to slacken the brakes' fearsome grip.

If I removed the vacuum feed to the (remote) servo unit, and blocked off the vac outlet on the manifold temporarily, would the brakes then - in theory - function as if the servo was not there at all?

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3942
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I have heard of problems with the "rubber" linings of flexi pipes coming adrift from the outer shell and closing up when releasing the brake pedal, thus preventing the fluid from returning to the reservoir.
_________________
Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1317
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Penman wrote:
Hi
I have heard of problems with the "rubber" linings of flexi pipes coming adrift from the outer shell and closing up when releasing the brake pedal, thus preventing the fluid from returning to the reservoir.


And I've experienced problems caused by new aftermarket wheel cylinders containing debris that similarly acts as a one-way valve. These days I won't fit new hydraulic cylinders without dismantling and checking them over, shouldn't be necessary but with so much cheapy junk on the market better safe than sorry. That said it's hard to imagine all 4 corners being affected at the same time, but worth checking anyway.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
norustplease



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 547
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A sticky non return valve in the vacuum pipe can cause this. Try removing it. The brakes/servo will still work, but you will lose the residual vacuum in the brake servo if your engine fails. All this means is that the servo assistance will not be available for a couple of pumps and that in the event of the engine cutting out, you will have to step on the pedal as if the car was unassisted.
The valve also prevents the possibility of fumes being sucked into the servo.
_________________
1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1986 Renault 4
1990 Citroen 2CV
Boring Fiat 500X
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20180
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Latest developments ..... the car's been sat in the garage for a few days now. I went to check the wheels and they've all freed themselves off and spin normally. The pedal also feels normal, applying and releasing the brakes correctly.

I started the engine, and instantly the pedal went solid and all four wheels are locked again.

Servo playing up do we think?

I'll wait for them to release again, disconnect the servo vacuum, and try starting the engine again to see what happens.

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
kevin2306



Joined: 01 Jul 2013
Posts: 1331
Location: nr Llangollen, north wales

PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go in favour of the servo Rick.
Can you get a service kit for it?

Kev
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Rick
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 20180
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2016 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kevin2306 wrote:
I'd go in favour of the servo Rick.
Can you get a service kit for it?

Kev


I've not looked into it to be honest, I'm of a mind simply to remove it as I don't need the braking assist that it offers, and it's just one more thing to go wrong.

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration. Forum Index -> Morris All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10  Next
Page 3 of 10

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Forum T&C


php BB powered © php BB Grp.