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First Bedford
Joined: 11 Dec 2009 Posts: 107 Location: Darlington, Durham
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:52 am Post subject: Cab frame - woodworm or dry rot? |
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Looking at the timber frame fitted as part of the cab structure on my 1952 Bedford, most of the ends are very soft and soggy. The truck came from New Zealand. Is it woodworm, dryrot or what? Will I have to remove or cut back to dry, hard sound timber?
Pete |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:45 am Post subject: |
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Got any pic Pete?
If its woodworm there will be small holes in the wood, where its really bad the wood just crumbles (powdery & dry) With dry rot (which does need moisture) the wood tends to shrink and break up into smaller chunks and there may be evidence of fungus.
Both can spread and need sorting asap (remove and burn the affected and nearby timber).
It may also be wet rot which is not so bad.
If you google pics for all of the above it shoudn't be too difficult to figure out which one you have, diy store's sell treatments for all of them.
Dave |
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First Bedford
Joined: 11 Dec 2009 Posts: 107 Location: Darlington, Durham
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:25 am Post subject: |
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Googled, definitelty damp and spongey, wet rot. Generally only the ends are affected, as they are all jointed will need to do some replacement for joint integrity. Thanks. Will take some pics.
Pete |
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Castellated nut
Joined: 08 Dec 2007 Posts: 91 Location: Shropshire, UK
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 11:10 am Post subject: |
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Definitely sounds like wet-rot, Pete. As long as you can splice in new sections all you need do is cut out the affected timber and give the whole lot a good dousing in Cuprinol or similar.
Dry-rot would be an entirely different kettle of fish and BIG trouble, but wet-rot is much more common in vehicles. |
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fordf350camper
Joined: 08 Jul 2008 Posts: 358
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:46 am Post subject: |
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Just out of intrest how wood you splin the wood.Then how do you fix it.Any photos. |
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First Bedford
Joined: 11 Dec 2009 Posts: 107 Location: Darlington, Durham
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:02 am Post subject: |
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Haven't tried yet, will have to call in help as woodwork not my forte. May be easier to copy sections and replace rather than splice bits on. |
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PAUL BEAUMONT
Joined: 27 Nov 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Barnsley S. Yorks
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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In my experience splicing bits on is not often a very satisfactory solution. If you have to do a lot of tinware removal to get at the offending parts, I would go for more extensive part replacement or you will be disappointed in the long run.
PAUL |
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First Bedford
Joined: 11 Dec 2009 Posts: 107 Location: Darlington, Durham
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Ah, forgot to mention, all timber is set in an open channel, very easy pull out timber.
Pete |
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