Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[mikebh]

The work on Tina was going so well when our worst nightmare happened, Got to the unit this morning and found that the unit above ours had a massive burst and we were standing in 2 inches of water.Tina got away unscathed or so we thought . we are ready to paint the underneath so after the big mop up we started to rub down the bare metal in preperation for paint but we seem to have surface rust coming of the metal,we put of the paint untill we can solve this problem . what can we do ? we thought of a rust stopper any idea's whats the best to use.Also we might need a complete interior as all the MINT Carpets and Seats are Soaked . We are not Happy at all , Any Idea's Guys.
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mike

[Kelsham]

If I understand you correctly it is just surface rust that requires neutralising.
Personally I would use Jenolite which leaves a phosphate coat on the metal.
Treat the surface several times, then wipe off and allow to dry.

I currently have a set of front wings down to bare metal in my garage with a coating of Jenolite.
No signs of rust after three months. When the weather improves I will give them another wipe and then prime and paint them.

Regards Kels.

[Phil - Nottingham]

I agree Jenolite is excellent for neutralising surface rust and phophate coating gives a good key to any primer.

Not agood idea to be painting metalw ork especailly in this weather unless garage is heated and metal is warm and dry. If water is in seams there will be future trouble
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[mikebh]

you are right about not painting with a damp atmoshere but the unit is always dry and warm so there was no problem untill we had this burst, the car has been back to bare metal for a couple of months,but the air is damp now thats why we have this problem,will try your suggestions thanks.
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mike

[paulbrook]

Google "veltan" and "fertan" - both excellent

[ukdave2002]

Phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in most rust treatment, it will convert reddish-brown iron(III) oxide (rust) to black ferric phosphate, the ferric phosphate should be brushed off, and the process repeated until you have bright steel.

I know many of the rust converters state you can paint on the black phosphate coating, personally I would prefer to get back to steel; differing paint adhesion properties, small chemical reactions can spoil a otherwise great paint job, given the time you spend prep-ing and painting I think its worth the extra effort.

I'm working on a stripped MGA at the moment, and even though it in a dry environment I can see patches of light surface rust appearing. I bought 5 liters of phosphoric acid for about £15 far cheaper than branded "rust converters" and I will treat the whole shell, even where there is no visible rust before painting.

You should also prime the car with an etch primer.

Cheers

Dave

[Phil - Nottingham]

Good idea but where do you buy the acid?
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Rover P2
Rover P4
Rover P5 & P5B
Land Rover S2 & S3
Morris Mini Traveller Mk2

[ukdave2002]

[Churchill Johnson]

Its the same stuff you drink in cola! i use stuff called aqua-steel cost me £10 for 5lit got it from a chap who sells it at places like the Dorset steam fair it is used by the Royal navy so i was informed and not by the seller it is not washed off after use and is cured after 24hrs ready for paint seems to work i must admit the best cure is sand blasting but it's not cheap.