Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
|
Author |
Message |
JC22
Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Posts: 13
|
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 11:13 am Post subject: 103e pop big end bearings |
|
|
I am trying to figure out if the big bearings I have are white metal bearings or shell type. Are there any striking differences? I need to know which ever they are as I have 2 that are failing.
cheers
Jason |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jim.Walker
Joined: 27 Dec 2008 Posts: 1229 Location: Chesterfield
|
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Strange question. Are you asking how to tell the difference with the connecting rod in your hand? Or before you have stripped the engine?
Once removed, shell bearings can be taken out of the rods, while white metal bearings are bonded to the rods.
I am pretty sure that the last 1172 Ford engine I stripped had white metal ends. I had the rods machined to accept shell bearings. Can't remember why now! I seem to remember that at that time pre-machined,re-metalled rods were available as service exchange from Ford Dealers.
Some one with more recent experience than me might be able to be more certain.
One thing I am sure of is that fitting (raw) re-metalled bearings is not a job for an amateur.
Jim. _________________ Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JC22
Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Posts: 13
|
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Jim, I have stripped the engine and I have seen tell tale signs that the engine has been stripped down before ie. the rods have been marked for which pot they come out of. The bores are clean thats why I asked they question re the piston size and I figure that if the motor has been stripped before that maybe it now has shell bearings but I'm not sure what the white metal bearing looks like |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Roger-hatchy
Joined: 07 Dec 2007 Posts: 2135 Location: Tiptree, Essex
|
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 8:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
It is still possible to get 'shell' conrods as a modification.
The reason for fitting them is as Jim states, white metal bearings are not for the amateur. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Jim.Walker
Joined: 27 Dec 2008 Posts: 1229 Location: Chesterfield
|
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
JC22 wrote: | Jim, I have stripped the engine and I have seen tell tale signs that the engine has been stripped down before ie. the rods have been marked for which pot they come out of. The bores are clean thats why I asked they question re the piston size and I figure that if the motor has been stripped before that maybe it now has shell bearings but I'm not sure what the white metal bearing looks like |
Shell bearings are thin metal in two pieces to fit the crankshaft journal. If you look at the internal face of either the rod or the cap there will be a small "sliver" or "tongue" turned outwards at one side. Pressing the un-tongued end of the shell will "spin" it out. The back of the shell will if standard have generally have STD marked on it, but not always. UNDERSIZED shells for cranks which have been re-ground WILL be marked usually as -.010 or -.015 etc. (- being minus).
It is no good fitting new shells without accurately measuring the crankpin wear for undersize, ovality and taper. More than 2-3 thou. of any from new dimensions less any known undersize marked on the shells demands a crank regrind. Or the new shells will not last long.
Cast white metal bearings (shell bearings are also faced with a thin white metal coating which should not be worn through) are integral with the shaft on a solder base and cannot be detached. They can be re-cast, but "scraping in" is required on fitting to get the correct clearance. A very skilled job.
I hope that is clear enough to help.
Jim. _________________ Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
lee Finnigan
Joined: 21 Feb 2014 Posts: 3
|
Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:36 pm Post subject: White Metal Bearings |
|
|
if you get stuck on white metal bearings try
(Link removed, 3 posts today all advertising. RJ) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
V8 Nutter
Joined: 27 Aug 2012 Posts: 588
|
Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 8:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Years ago the Glacier bearing catalogue listed drawings to modify white metal rods to take shells. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ka
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
|
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:16 am Post subject: |
|
|
Have you decided whether you are using shell, or white metal? _________________ KA
Better three than four. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
roverdriver
Joined: 18 Oct 2008 Posts: 1210 Location: 100 miles from Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
|
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
Connecting rods with cast Babbit (whitemetal) bearings. These from a T Ford.
When I was restoring my Model A, I had the bearings, both mains and big ends re-cast. Although I am no mechanic, and certainly no machinist, I had little difficulty scraping the bearings to make a correct fit.
With the crankshaft held in a vice, I blued the journal for the first rod, lightly bolted the rod and cap into place, (using 3 two thou shims each side), moved the rod around the journal and unbolted. The high spots of the Babbit showed as blue, so I started gently scraping away at those areas. After a little, I re-blued the shaft, fitted the rod, wriggled it, removed it and scraped away at the high spots. This process was repeated until I got a good blueing of about seven-eights of the surface on both the cap and rod.
I repeated the process for the other three bearings. As for tightness and clearance, With the piston mounted on the rod and bolted to the shaft, and the bearing oiled, the rod should fall slowly from near vertical, taking perhaps half a second for the fall.
After several thousand miles, I removed one shim from each side of each rod, but that was all that I had to do. I must have done something right as a mere beginner, because I drove that car for nearly 200,000 miles before I sold it.
Difficult to do- no. Requiring great skill-no. Needing patience and time-yes. I did all four big ends in one evening- well that is, I started at about 6.00 p.m., and was so engrossed in the job that when I finished the last one it was about 6.00 a.m. next morning. _________________ Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
php BB powered © php BB Grp.
|