Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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shell27
Joined: 30 Nov 2007 Posts: 26
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:56 am Post subject: Starting a barn find |
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Just got myself a little Ford Prefect 1960 yesterday, it has been stored for 18 years and I understand it has not been started for that period.
Could anybody give me a clue on how to approach this, i believe it was put away running.
Thanks |
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alan 869
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 388 Location: Linköping Sweden
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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My Volvo PV 444 from 1956 had been standing since 1977 when I got hold of it (in 1989). I took the plugs out, drained the oil and changed the filter. Flushed the rad and the block-heater. When I´d done that I filled with new oil and tried to crank it round by hand without the plugs. It went round okay. I then refilled the coolant (50-50 glychol and water). New plugs and distr. cap and points. Emptied it of everything in the tank and fuel pump. Fresh petrol.
Turned it over on a fresh battery (6 Volt) and it fired first time. Ran it for an hour or so and then changed the oil and filter again. Took the carb off (Zenith VIG 9) and cleaned it up. Made sure all the jets were free from crap. New gasket set. Car has been going without fault ever since |
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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Alan's advice...spot-on. I did almost the same with my old Austin that hadn't run for thirty years when I bought it. It makes sense to check that all wiring connections are clean and tight, plugs new and that the petrol supply is as clean as possible before trying it. I guess that the carburettor is the item that you would always be least sure about if it won't start.
It's best to be sure the valves aren't sticking and have an extinguisher ready just in case of a serious fuel leak. You might need ear-plugs if the exhaust has gone or is about to.
I have covered over 10,000 miles since getting the car going. the only proper engine work was replacing the head gasket; I didn't even grind the valves. So that's at least fifty years since the engine had any serious work and it still runs beautifully.
I think most of us love fiddling with engines more than anything else, but the temptation to meddle can upset a perfectly set up engine.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peterjthompson/7125598823/in/photostream |
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alan 869
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 388 Location: Linköping Sweden
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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The rocker cover hasn´t been off it since I´ve had it. Doesn´t need it. Just painted. With an old car with an old engine change the oil and filter a couple of times a year for the first few years and don´t hammer it, they aren´t built for high revs...
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22447 Location: UK
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alan 869
Joined: 07 Mar 2011 Posts: 388 Location: Linköping Sweden
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Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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I´ll try and get something together about the PV. My first Volvo was an Amazon estate 1963 which was more plastic padding than anything else. Amazon was the first Volvo really to be sold abroad. First to get RHD anyway. PVs were sold in scandinavia and they started to sell Volvos in USA in 1955 with the PV. The Amazon followed shortly afterwards.... |
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gresham flyer
Joined: 06 Sep 2008 Posts: 1435
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Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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I have just this week carried out the recommissioning of a Sunbeam Rapier that had been garage stored for nearly 20 years.
I carried out the items mentioned but also drained the gearbox and rear axle.
The clutch fluid was also pumped through with an Easibleed until a good clean liquid was seen.
Even if you get the clutch working always buy a seal kit for a standby as a few weeks into using the car the rubbers might perish.
I prefer an easibleed especially on the brake cylinder,it is a lot kinder to the system, if you use the foot pumping method you are forcing the rubber seals up and down the bore which does not happen in use quite as much,also I have known the seals to flip over with this method meaning a strip down.
I always purchase seal kits for the braking system master cylinder,brake cylinders and calipers etc,even if you get them working again after use they might fail.
The braking system is always stripped and the old fluid blown out carefully.
My car had front brake calipers,I removed them and on the bench worked the pistons in and out using an adapter I have made up so that i can force grease through with my grease gun, (do not be tempted to blow compressed air through to remove the pistons) you will cause injury to yourself and the chromed pistons.
Sometimes you can get away with cleaning,sometimes new seals but in most cases the chrome pistons will be corroded and new stainless steel ones should be fitted.
The rear brake cylinders in my case were removed,cleaned up and worked in and out with the grease gun again to get them moving.
To give the brake shoes some bite draw an old hacksaw back and forth over the shoe surface to get rid of the old glazing.
If the car has been stored in very dry conditions you may get away lightly but if it has been kept in a damp humid old garage expect to rebuild the braking system for safety and reliability.
I always fit new rubber flexible pipes front and rear as a matter of cause as the old pipes get hard and perish internally binding the brakes on.
Next job would be the electrical components that need checking through.....I have just finished this today.
Hopefully on Wednesday the car will pass its Mot for the first time in twenty years.
It is so satisfying driving that car out of your driveway for the first time,running well and gleaming from head to toe on its way to the Mot station, after being delivered on a trailer and pushed into your workshop not running and with binding brakes and filthy interior and dull paintwork
Then it is gentle use checking everything is ok and working correctly as it should
Gresham Flyer. |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22447 Location: UK
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