Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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matchlessg80cs
Joined: 01 Apr 2012 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:02 pm Post subject: 1928 Morris Cowley - seized ? |
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Hi - I wonfder if any one out there can help. I recently bought a 28 Morris Cowley 2 seater that was well restored and regularily used until 5 years ago. Got it home, charged the battery - it turned over well (+ on the starting handle) but refused to start - spat back etc so timing was out I guess.
Went back less than a week later and it appears the engine is locked solid - not a scrap of movement at the starting handle, starter motor just clunks as it can't move the crank. Took the cover off the starter motor / dynamo and the chain is free - the mag turns OK. Put it in gear and rocked it forwards / back wards - gears work/clutch Ok. So it must be the engine - bores seized ?? - how could they over a matter of a week ?
Any ideas ???
Thanks in advance...
Al |
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47Jag
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bothwell, Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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Pull the spark plugs and try turning with the handle again. It's a long shot but you may have a hydraulic lock IE the cylinder with the valves closed has filled with water from a blown head gasket.Removing the plugs will let the water escape.
Art |
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matchlessg80cs
Joined: 01 Apr 2012 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks - have taken the plugs out & have put penetrating oil down the bores / over the valves. Still locked solid ...... |
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fiatguy23
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 32 Location: Australia
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:11 am Post subject: |
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Hi Al, I read this from another thread on this forum but apparently Coke (the real stuff, no knock off immitations) works really well for this. Pore a generous amount down each cylinder and let it sit for a while. apparently it works wonders! Only thing is, its a mild acid, so it needs to be cleaned out of the engine or neutralised somehow, I'm not sure how though. Maybe someone else on here can provide some answers?? I have seen videos on youtube where coke can be used for rust removal so in theory if there is water in the bores it would work ideal for removing the rust!
It could also be a stuck valve but if that was the case you would think that a little bit of movement would result in turning the crank handle. Maybe just remove the valve cover and just have a general look, see if anything looks amiss.
We have a 1925 morris cowley roadster too btw!
Good luck,
Brodie. |
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Kelsham
Joined: 18 Jan 2009 Posts: 349 Location: Llandrindod Wells Powys
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:33 am Post subject: |
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I would only use Coke if i intended to strip the engine afterwards.
It seems odd that it should seize after only one week.
I would remove the timing chain if accesible? and see if its stuck valves.
Diesel down the bores is a more conservative approach than Coke.
I had a problem once on a Ford V8 sidevalve. After a long period out of use when I tried to start it, the top of a piston detatched and jammed the engine. I could turn the engine back and forward a littlle.
I presume the engine is a sidevalve. It should be easy to remove the head and get a better look.
Regards Kels. |
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MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:40 am Post subject: |
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It is a bit odd to seize after a week - I'd be looking for a mechanical jam-up rather than 'seizure' too. Is the starter jammed in mesh?
Here's a new un-seizing formula from a Volvo forum:
50/50 diesel & acetone.
It's not clear if you sniff it, drink it or run your Lear Jet on it! _________________ Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S' |
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norustplease
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 779 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:29 am Post subject: |
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I can't imagine that this is corrosion based if it turned over freely just a few days previously. It must be some kind of mechanical interference. A valve jammed shut can cause a locked engine, since the cam can't shove the pushrod down.
You will probably have to face up to some stripping down. Try looking in the valve chest as a starter and see what moves if you rock the car in gear. Failing that, it could be debris in the combustion chamber, but unfortunately the only way of seeing that (unless you can borrow an endoscope) is to take the head off.
This might be prudent anyway if the engine has been stood for several years. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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welder
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 265 Location: North Warwickshire
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Posted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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norustplease wrote: | I can't imagine that this is corrosion based if it turned over freely just a few days previously. It must be some kind of mechanical interference. A valve jammed shut can cause a locked engine, since the cam can't shove the pushrod down.
You will probably have to face up to some stripping down. Try looking in the valve chest as a starter and see what moves if you rock the car in gear. Failing that, it could be debris in the combustion chamber, but unfortunately the only way of seeing that (unless you can borrow an endoscope) is to take the head off.
This might be prudent anyway if the engine has been stood for several years. |
Al,
I agree with the expression "mechanical interference" and with all of the advice offered so far.
You say that the engine fires but won't run. If the distibutor has an offset drive check to see that this is correctly aligned. While trying to get my Morris to run after a long layoff I messed with the dizzy several times and once refitted it with the drive 180 degrees out. The engine turned and misfired briefly and I stopped trying. Upon trying again, a little later, the engine appeared to be siezed. Backtracking, I removed the dizzy and all was free.
Just a thought and worth a look before pulling that old motor apart
Ian |
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