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baconsdozen
Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.
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 Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 8:33 am Post subject: Car filler,sell by dates etc. |
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Couple of questions.
I've been offered a load of unopened tins of filler.Most are by Upol (I might have remembered the name wrong) and are from a place that closed down around six years ago.
Are they likely to be still usable ?.
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Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired). |
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Phil - Nottingham
Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: Nottingham
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| Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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Depends how it been stored - if too warm then it will thicken up. Otherwise easily good for 10 years + as UPOL is 1st quality
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baconsdozen
Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.
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Julian
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 278
Location: Warrington
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| Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 11:22 am Post subject: |
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Upol lasts for years. It's just resin with filler powder stirred in.
I've had some for about 5 years and all that happens over a very long time is that the heavier filler material gravitates to the bottom and you get a thinner 'mix' towards the top.
Sometimes I find the less viscous stuff better for small pin-holes etc, otherwise I just stir it up a bit.
If you have thick stuff at the bottom that's a little too firm to work nicely then a few spoonfuls of fibreglass resin stirred in restores it perfectly!
Julian. |
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welshrover
Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 326
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| Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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ive just repaired the bonnet on the wifes hillman yesterday. the filler i used is about 15 years old, its called stevens proffesional filler .i just poured some linseed oil in it and give it a good stir. good as new. bonnet fixed and primed, just waiting for top coat  |
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Julian
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 278
Location: Warrington
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| Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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| welshrover wrote: | | .i just poured some linseed oil in it o |
I reckon that will end in tears. I can't see how linseed oil will react with the hardener catalyst (cyanacylate?) and go solid. It will be there beneath the paint and will bleed through (probably in about 6 months time) and mark the paint finish.
Julian. |
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welshrover
Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 326
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| Posted: Wed May 09, 2012 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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| not a problem at all,i did the same thing years ago actually it was the same tub of filler ,one of those big 3.5 litre jobs ,when i repaired a door on my old dears car, a white mk 2 fiesta, repainted it and the door was still white 5 years later when she sold it. i was told this trick by a mate of my late grandfathers who was a painter on the potteries motor transport division in stoke.ps it has got to be boiled linseed oil. |
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Julian
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 278
Location: Warrington
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 7:47 am Post subject: |
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| welshrover wrote: | | not a problem at all,i did the same thing years ago actually it was the same tub of filler ,one of those big 3.5 litre jobs ,when i repaired a door on my old dears car, a white mk 2 fiesta, repainted it and the door was still white 5 years later when she sold it. i was told this trick by a mate of my late grandfathers who was a painter on the potteries motor transport division in stoke.ps it has got to be boiled linseed oil. |
I think I can say a little more here. As I understand it, before 'modern' fillers they used boiled linseed and whiting to make a putty to do the job - hence, I expect, the relevance of your late grandfather. Modern filler is polyester resin based and needs a catalyst (hardener) to cure. Mixing the two liquids, I would say, is daft. I guess you've got away with it so far, but paint is a funny stuff and it wouldn't surprise me if you started to get little pinholes or imperfections in the paint in years to come as the volatile components of the linseed try to escape.
I suspect polyester resin is cheaper than linseed anyway!
Julian. |
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baconsdozen
Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.
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Julian
Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 278
Location: Warrington
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| Posted: Thu May 10, 2012 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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| baconsdozen wrote: | | I remember a mate filling a rotten wing on an A40 with plaster of paris and painting it with emulsion.He spent hours doing it but it fell out after a few days. |
I've seen paper mache used!
Julian. |
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dingal2000
Joined: 26 Apr 2012
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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| U-POL is one of the worlds leading makers of fillers etc, and have an extensive range. if you are wondering how long a product will last , drop them a email from there site http://www.u-pol.com/ they will answer but might take a few days. friendly customer services |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4105
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:29 am Post subject: |
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If its Upol "Easy" I'd think it would be fine, Upol "Top Stop Gold" tends to drag a tad when its old (by old I mean a tin that had been previously opened & 6 months old) , which you don't want when applying thin skims.
I have a tin of easy that was first opened 2 years ago and its still fine.
Dave |
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