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steammart
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 27
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Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:50 am Post subject: Fibreglass |
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Some of you may have seen my morris 8 restoration, the rear of the body tub has been bodged up with fibreglass at some point.
What I would like to know is whats the best way of removing the the fibreglass but in a way as not to damage the metal underneath (or whats left of it). Is there a product that will disolve it?
Cheers
Martin |
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baconsdozen
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 1119 Location: Under the car.
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Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:00 am Post subject: |
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Nitric acid and ethanol both dissolve the polyester type fibreglass resin.If the resin is one of the epoxy type then they wont but the epoxy stuff isn't very common.
There is a commercial product thats used but I can't remember what its called,ask a boat builder they use it on fibreglass repairs. _________________ Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired). |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22447 Location: UK
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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Well, a twist knot wire brush used in an angle grinder will quickly get it down to dust, but if there's a lot of it then you won't be having much fun!
My guess, though, is that in all likelihood the original rust wouldn't have been well treated - unless, of course, they used red lead - and the corrosion may well have continued under the fibreglass, meaning that it won't really be bonded to much of anything. There's a fair chance that a bit of poking around will find a weak spot from where the stuff can be levered off pretty much complete... |
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Nick.S.
Joined: 08 Nov 2011 Posts: 64 Location: Manitoba, Canada.
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Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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apparently ethanol works to dissolve the resin, but i would have figured acetone would work well, perhaps even other industrial solvents like toluene and xylene would work as well.
you should be able to find acetone and toulene at a hardware store, and xylene can be found on fleabay.
good luck
Nick. _________________ 1951 Austin A40 Devon |
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baconsdozen
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 1119 Location: Under the car.
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ajlelectronics
Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Posts: 168 Location: Gloucester
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:58 pm Post subject: Re: Fibreglass |
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steammart wrote: |
What I would like to know is whats the best way of removing the the fibreglass but in a way as not to damage the metal underneath (or whats left of it). Is there a product that will disolve it?
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Paint stripper like Nitromors will eat the resin quite well. |
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buzzy bee
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3382 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
If you use a grinder, Knotted Nylon discs are the thing to use, they will strip paint, filler, fiberglass, rust etc, and leave a good keyed surface to paint on, but it won't touch good steel.
Discs like these:-
http://www.signicn.com/bigpic/1/8/20101121164340.jpg
They are quite dear, but I think I stripped most of a car with about 5 or 6 discs.
Hope it helps
Cheers
Dave |
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Julian
Joined: 19 Apr 2010 Posts: 278 Location: Warrington
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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buzzy bee wrote: | Knotted Nylon discs are the thing to use,
Dave |
That's given me an idea - what about using the strimmer
Julian. |
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lowdrag
Joined: 10 Apr 2009 Posts: 1585 Location: Le Mans
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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Julian wrote: | buzzy bee wrote: | Knotted Nylon discs are the thing to use,
Dave |
That's given me an idea - what about using the strimmer
Julian. |
I'd use the brush cutter attachment though, not the nylon fishing line |
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Bitumen Boy
Joined: 26 Jan 2012 Posts: 1735 Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire
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Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:37 pm Post subject: Re: Fibreglass |
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ajlelectronics wrote: |
Paint stripper like Nitromors will eat the resin quite well. |
That's a point. I've no experience of it on fibreglass, but I remember finding out a few years ago that Nitromors will shift cured epoxy adhesives. Mind you, it'll cost a bit if you need a lot of it, especially if the fibreglass was laid on thickly. It might be worth looking up the active ingredient of the stuff, maybe you can get it more cheaply without the fancy label... |
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steammart
Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 27
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Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 1:43 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies, when I do attack it I'll let you all know how it went. |
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Handyman
Joined: 09 Aug 2011 Posts: 44 Location: Up in't clouds in Sunny Sussex.
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Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:21 am Post subject: |
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As I do a lot of work with resins and fibreglass in dinghies and making car panels, I have found that once the resin has cured most solvents in any form do take a considerable time to dissolve any bonding.
The real trick is to wash off any resin that has not cured with acetone, but that does not answer your problem where the bonding has taken place. You could try using styrene monomer, but again, once the catalyst has help cure the resin, you will have a long, labourious and expensive task.
I sometimes use heat on my laminating rollers to burn off the resins, but it is a messy business and the fumes are not conducive to good health.
Ethanol will attack polyester resins but again the process is slow. I would be wary about using ethanol as it is again not very conducive to good health. The fumes can be extremely dangerous and poisonous.
If you decide to use any form of abrading/grinding, you must wear protective eye wear and a good mask designed to exclude the dust fitted with the right filter, not one of the cheap masks you can buy in a car factors.
If you are grinding the cured GRP, small pieces of glass are produced in dust form that can cause infection when absorbed into the eyes. The effect on lungs, if you breathe in the dust, it is even more disasterous as your lungs will develop infections caused by the glass that are virtually impossible to eradicate.
If you are not sure, get a professional to strip off the GRP.
Dick |
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