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Fibreglass
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steammart



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 8:50 am    Post subject: Fibreglass Reply with quote

Some of you may have seen my morris 8 restoration, the rear of the body tub has been bodged up with fibreglass at some point.

What I would like to know is whats the best way of removing the the fibreglass but in a way as not to damage the metal underneath (or whats left of it). Is there a product that will disolve it?

Cheers
Martin
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baconsdozen



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nitric acid and ethanol both dissolve the polyester type fibreglass resin.If the resin is one of the epoxy type then they wont but the epoxy stuff isn't very common.
There is a commercial product thats used but I can't remember what its called,ask a boat builder they use it on fibreglass repairs.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did read a suggestion of using (gently) a hot air gun - but you have to be mindful of the fumes it can create apparently. Not something I've tried or particularly recommend though, just what I read Smile

RJ
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1735
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, a twist knot wire brush used in an angle grinder will quickly get it down to dust, but if there's a lot of it then you won't be having much fun!

My guess, though, is that in all likelihood the original rust wouldn't have been well treated - unless, of course, they used red lead - and the corrosion may well have continued under the fibreglass, meaning that it won't really be bonded to much of anything. There's a fair chance that a bit of poking around will find a weak spot from where the stuff can be levered off pretty much complete... Rolling Eyes
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Nick.S.



Joined: 08 Nov 2011
Posts: 64
Location: Manitoba, Canada.

PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

apparently ethanol works to dissolve the resin, but i would have figured acetone would work well, perhaps even other industrial solvents like toluene and xylene would work as well.
you should be able to find acetone and toulene at a hardware store, and xylene can be found on fleabay.
good luck Very Happy
Nick.
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baconsdozen



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 1119
Location: Under the car.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ethanol dissolves the resin which is why fibreglass tanks are a bit of a no no with the newer fuels which contain it in varing doses.
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ajlelectronics



Joined: 04 Oct 2010
Posts: 168
Location: Gloucester

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Fibreglass Reply with quote

steammart wrote:

What I would like to know is whats the best way of removing the the fibreglass but in a way as not to damage the metal underneath (or whats left of it). Is there a product that will disolve it?



Paint stripper like Nitromors will eat the resin quite well.
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3382
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

If you use a grinder, Knotted Nylon discs are the thing to use, they will strip paint, filler, fiberglass, rust etc, and leave a good keyed surface to paint on, but it won't touch good steel.

Discs like these:-

http://www.signicn.com/bigpic/1/8/20101121164340.jpg

They are quite dear, but I think I stripped most of a car with about 5 or 6 discs.

Hope it helps

Cheers

Dave
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Julian



Joined: 19 Apr 2010
Posts: 278
Location: Warrington

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

buzzy bee wrote:
Knotted Nylon discs are the thing to use,
Dave


That's given me an idea - what about using the strimmer Very Happy

Julian.
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lowdrag



Joined: 10 Apr 2009
Posts: 1585
Location: Le Mans

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Julian wrote:
buzzy bee wrote:
Knotted Nylon discs are the thing to use,
Dave


That's given me an idea - what about using the strimmer Very Happy

Julian.


I'd use the brush cutter attachment though, not the nylon fishing line Very Happy
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Bitumen Boy



Joined: 26 Jan 2012
Posts: 1735
Location: Above the snow line in old Monmouthshire

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Fibreglass Reply with quote

ajlelectronics wrote:


Paint stripper like Nitromors will eat the resin quite well.


That's a point. I've no experience of it on fibreglass, but I remember finding out a few years ago that Nitromors will shift cured epoxy adhesives. Mind you, it'll cost a bit if you need a lot of it, especially if the fibreglass was laid on thickly. It might be worth looking up the active ingredient of the stuff, maybe you can get it more cheaply without the fancy label... Wink
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steammart



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies, when I do attack it I'll let you all know how it went.
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Handyman



Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 44
Location: Up in't clouds in Sunny Sussex.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I do a lot of work with resins and fibreglass in dinghies and making car panels, I have found that once the resin has cured most solvents in any form do take a considerable time to dissolve any bonding.

The real trick is to wash off any resin that has not cured with acetone, but that does not answer your problem where the bonding has taken place. You could try using styrene monomer, but again, once the catalyst has help cure the resin, you will have a long, labourious and expensive task.

I sometimes use heat on my laminating rollers to burn off the resins, but it is a messy business and the fumes are not conducive to good health.

Ethanol will attack polyester resins but again the process is slow. I would be wary about using ethanol as it is again not very conducive to good health. The fumes can be extremely dangerous and poisonous.

If you decide to use any form of abrading/grinding, you must wear protective eye wear and a good mask designed to exclude the dust fitted with the right filter, not one of the cheap masks you can buy in a car factors.

If you are grinding the cured GRP, small pieces of glass are produced in dust form that can cause infection when absorbed into the eyes. The effect on lungs, if you breathe in the dust, it is even more disasterous as your lungs will develop infections caused by the glass that are virtually impossible to eradicate.

If you are not sure, get a professional to strip off the GRP.

Dick
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