Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rdover]

I stripped, primed and painted my leaf springs last winter but they quickly deteriorated. I probably didn't do the stripping job properly, using nitromors and not splitting the leaf pack so whilst I have the rear axle apart for new bushings I could do the springs again, properly.

Any advice?
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Richard

[Jason]

advice given to me by my mechanic......

paint on springs, cracks, as does powder coating and chrome due to the metal flexing.....the tape you can buy to wrap them will trap water making the springs rust under the tape.

he advised me to coat my new springs with underseal as the underseal is flexible.

so I applied 2 coats of underseal and they still look good, although they've only been on the car about 10 months.
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"people with money buy a Rolls Royce, people with taste buy an Alvis".

[Rdover]

That is an option.

strip back to black metal and spray with waxoyl, of which I have gallons (Landrover owner!!)
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Richard

[Bitumen Boy]

I've found the Bilt-Hamber cavity wax works well on stuff like this, where other waxes would just flake off after a few months it's still there after five years or so. Can't recommend it enough.

[Rdover]

Bilt Hamber stuff is great, I've used their polish but it is far from cheap. I've got 10 litres of waxoyl I'll get my use out of that.
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Richard

[Kelsham]

A thorough greasing and Denso tape was the way vintage car owners used to recommend. The Denso tape is wound round tightly and I can't see water getting in if done properly.

On my low mileage BSA Trike I settle for just greasing the leaves. The required service of joints at 500 mile intervals allows me to use the surplus grese to wipe over any exposed areas.

Kels.