Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[colwyn500]

Sounds like Girling rod brakes; these were the ultimate development of fully rod-braked systems before hydraulics sneaked in. They should be a match for any brake system when adjusted right,

The secret is to have all the operating "cylinders" on the wheels with the correct castellated nuts and these nipped up to the point where the mechanism can just slide on the backplate.

The "swingle trees" on the front and back axles pivot on a threaded boss which also needs to be able to pivot freely. The clevis pins throughout the system obviously need to be a good fit in the holes.

If all is well, once each brake has been tightened to just catch and then turned back, all future adjustment should be at the main adjuster which I think is on the foot-brake operating linkage.

You should certainly be able to stop a good deal more safely and straighter than me in my 1935 Austin; makes me jealous.

[Reg Shaw]

My car took a step backwards today. Bearing in mind it hasn't been on the road for ten years or so due to rebuilding a Georgian Coach House to live in, I had always made sure to start it up or turn it over at least quite frequently. Last time must have been a few months ago though. The engine was locked absolutely solid. Couldn't rock it in gear, turn the handle or anything. I took the plugs out and used some penetrating oil into the void. Left overnight, nothing. Used some blowlamp heat today to soften any gummed up oils. Nothing.
The plug from the 3rd cylinder was a bit furry so I feared moisture ingress. In the end I whipped the head off and the issue was indeed cylinder 3 and its valves, plus the inlet valve for the fourth, rear cylinder. The third cylinder was almost at the bottom so after soaking in penetrating oil I tapped it down with a wooden block turned to size. After a couple of taps it was at the bottom and the crank could be rocked a bit. The third bore was cleaned up and the valves fettled so the engine now turns over and all the valves open an close although the 'dodgy' three might need further attention.
I'm absolutely amazed at the extent of seizure after just a few months in a garage. It looks like the last time I turned the engine over it was left at a point that the inlet valve of number three was open to moisture. Lesson learnt!! Anyhow, since I've now got the carb, head and dynamo off I'll give them a good coat of looking at ready for refit and perhaps even a run in the next couple of weeks.

Ian.

[47Jag]

Reg,

Regarding the brakes, if it is a Girling system there may be similarities to my Jaguar system. The manual for my car gives a very good set-up procedure with angles to set the various pivots to prior to connecting to the wheel actuators. Does your brake pedal float IE is it bolted straight to the chassis or is it suspended on a link. If you PM me with your e-mail address I will send you a scan from the Jaguar manual which although it might not be the same system it might give you pointers as to what to look for.

Art

[Rick]

Looking at the sunroof, doesn't it drop at the rear like that when you rotate the sunroof knob prior to sliding it back?

RJ
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[Jim.Walker]

I have a rather larger Austin with Girling rod brakes. The front are twin leading shoes with the formerly trailing shoe operated by bell cranks and pushrod.
The Manual for the car (and my own experience) are rather at variance with several of the points made by colwyn500.
All rods should as far as possible be adjusted for length so that they lie at 90 degrees to the operating lever or "swingle tree" with the "swingle tree" hanging vertically and the brakes adjusted ON. There will also be a front/rear compensator close to the brake pedal where the 90 degree rule must also be followed. Backing off the adjustor on each wheel by one click should be the final act.
If rod lengths are altered it is VERY IMPORTANT that the yokes are secured with back-up lock nuts. If they are not, the threads can "niggle" and may fail. IT HAPPENED TO ME! A front rod parted because an apprentice in the garage had left a lock nut loose. NOT Funny!!! There was still a little braking at the rear, but not much because the pedal hit the floor.
The Family firm I worked for had ten Austin FL1s fitted with these brakes. Each doing taxi mileages every year.
I still have the Austin (manufacturers) Manual. If you wish, and if I can find it I could copy the relevent part for you.
I still have the 1951 FL1 I used to drive from 1956 onwards for years.
Regards, Jim.
_________________
Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!

[colwyn500]

Jim, my comment about Girling brakes was expanded with some possibly superfluous detail simply to bolster my assertion that Girling brakes should easily be able to be adjusted to provide excellent braking. It was not written as a technical guide but merely to highlight some important points.

Obviously the best mechanical advantage will be gained by having all pivots oriented at 90 degrees to the activating direction, but according to the manufacturer's instructions, all adjustments to rods should be avoided as far as possible.

Adjustment should normally only be required at the wheels as described and the plunger activated units must be able to move on the backplate under pressure.

[Jim.Walker]

[Jim.Walker]

[Reg Shaw]

[Reg Shaw]

Got all the engine back together without too much of an issue today. The main issue was one of the head studs has always had a fairly duff thread and I couldn't get the nut back on it, so the only option I had was to re tap the thread to I think 10mm and use a modern nut till I can get a spare stud. Also flushed the fuel tank, serviced the carb and distributor, eventually got a nice sparks at the plugs but the battery goes flat virtually straight away so I'm thinking its knackered. Managed to get a few pops out of it but thats it. A couple more bits to do and the 10 years of hibernation is at an end, hopefully!!

Ian.

[Jim.Walker]

In no way an expert on Austins the age of yours I doubt whether there is a Metric sized stud or fastener anywhere on the car. No doubt others will confirm or contradict that.
Pre-war and immediately post-war British cars were inevitably IMPERIAL (British) threads and sizes. About the only common exceptions I know of are SOME Morris Models.
I would guess your head stud as 7/16 in. BSF as NEAREST to 10mm.
As an apprentice mechanic in 1956 I needed neither A/F or Metric tools except on rare American or Continental cars.
Jim.
_________________
Quote from my late Dad:- You only need a woman and a car and you have all the problems you
are ever likely to want". Computers had not been invented then!

[Reg Shaw]

Cheers Jim. I used the metric job since the original thread was knackered, the 10mm (??) thread cut very nicely on the old stud. Its a temporarypermanent fix until I get another stud. Its under the dynamo too so the purists won't be mortified!

Ian.

[peter scott]

[Reg Shaw]

Well, after some 12 years or so, my Austin ran again and drove under its own steam. I'd been struggling to get it to start on the starter or the handle, so resorted to a gentle tow down the drive behind a mates Alhambra. Within 20 feet it was running, albeit seemingly only on three. It drove back to the garage all by itself where things were examined. Electrically all seemed good, fuel is there but the carb needs a fiddle. One thing that I didn't like though was a water leak from a head bolt, middle row, second from the back. I was careful to get the gasket back on right and did the bolts up in the right order, perhaps it just needs nipping up a bit more? Anyhoo, here's the mates quick vid as I streak past on three!

Ian.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olJA8e1l5n0&feature=youtu.be

[colwyn500]

Congratulations...that's a great feeling.

On the earlier Austins the head studs are open to the water jacket beneath. It was recommended by some to use thread-lock to seal against water rising up the threads.