Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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mr911er
Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Posts: 31
Location: Redditch
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 Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 11:35 am Post subject: Painting with spray cans |
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Hi
Just wondered if anyone has ever managed to get decent results with spray cans. My conclusion is that they are basically a waste of time. However, I intend to temprarily tidy up my wheels before getting them refurbed professionally. They are anodised aluminium with matt(satin?) black centres. It is the black that I intend to spray. the plan is:
Rub down e.g.400 wet and dry paper
Clean with detergent, then some kind of solvent (thinners or meths) to remove traces of grease
Mask up
De grease again
Spray with Rustoleum grey primer - three light coats applied over about half hour
Leave overnight
Topcoat with Rustoleum satin black - three coats again applied within half hour
Remove masking
I seem to find a whole load of different advice from various places e.g. add topcoat of clear laquer, leave two days, rub down with 1200 w&d and polish with rubbing down compound etc. and I never know which is the best way (especiailly for a matt finnish) - usually I find that the finish is patchy.
I would be interested to hear any comments.
Regards
Kevin |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4105
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Kevin
I paint with a Devilbiss GTI pro gun, but I also use aerosols especially for small jobs; brackets and the like.
Firstly there is a huge difference in the quality of aerosols, at the NEC last year 1 firm was offering 4 or 6 500ml aerosols for £10, I got some primer and satin black, they were made by a well known firm..... frankly they were awful, poor and patchy coverage.
The aerosols supplied by my local paint supplier are brilliant; good and consistent coverage..but they are selling to professional painters not the DIY Joe Public...their products have to be good.
Most auto paint suppliers stock primer and satin black aerosol as they are often required by the trade for small jobs, if they don't stock them they will make them up for you. I used a couple of aerosols when painting my MGA ; great for small bits , places where its difficult to get a gun , you can't tell where...
Some tips:
Don't de-grease with thinners or the like, as you risk it dissolving the paint, use proper solvent wipe, clean with a tack rag prior to every coat. If you are painting bare alloy, use a very thin coat of etch prime (available in aerosols) don't rub it down, then a normal primer, rub it down with 800 grit, then the top coat. If it needs it rub the top coat down with 1500 grit and compound with G3. You only need to lacquer if the top coat is a base coat i.e. no gloss in it at all, off the shelf satin black won't need a lacquer, if you have it mixed they will ask you if you want base or solid, base will need a lacquer, solid is the same as the off the shelf stuff.
Hope this helps
Dave |
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Rick
Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22449
Location: UK
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mr911er
Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Posts: 31
Location: Redditch
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| Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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| ukdave2002 wrote: | Hi Kevin
I paint with a Devilbiss GTI pro gun, but I also use aerosols especially for small jobs; brackets and the like.
Firstly there is a huge difference in the quality of aerosols, at the NEC last year 1 firm was offering 4 or 6 500ml aerosols for £10, I got some primer and satin black, they were made by a well known firm..... frankly they were awful, poor and patchy coverage.
The aerosols supplied by my local paint supplier are brilliant; good and consistent coverage..but they are selling to professional painters not the DIY Joe Public...their products have to be good.
Most auto paint suppliers stock primer and satin black aerosol as they are often required by the trade for small jobs, if they don't stock them they will make them up for you. I used a couple of aerosols when painting my MGA ; great for small bits , places where its difficult to get a gun , you can't tell where...
Some tips:
Don't de-grease with thinners or the like, as you risk it dissolving the paint, use proper solvent wipe, clean with a tack rag prior to every coat. If you are painting bare alloy, use a very thin coat of etch prime (available in aerosols) don't rub it down, then a normal primer, rub it down with 800 grit, then the top coat. If it needs it rub the top coat down with 1500 grit and compound with G3. You only need to lacquer if the top coat is a base coat i.e. no gloss in it at all, off the shelf satin black won't need a lacquer, if you have it mixed they will ask you if you want base or solid, base will need a lacquer, solid is the same as the off the shelf stuff.
Hope this helps
Dave |
Thanks for the reply Dave
Awesome looking MGA btw!
I dont have a relationship with any local paintshops but will look into getting some spray cans made up. The reason I was going to use Rustoleum was it was recommended in a couple of Youtube videos I found on the subject.
Anyway - here is a revised method:
Rub down e.g.400 wet and dry paper
Clean with detergent, then solvent wipe
Clean with tack rag
Mask up
De grease and use tack rag again
Spray with light coat of etch primer
Leave overnight
Clean with tack rag
Spray with grey primer - three light coats applied over about half hour
Leave overnight
Rub down with 800 grit paper
Clean with solvent wipe and tack rag
Topcoat with satin black - three coats again applied within half hour
Remove masking
Leave a few days and then rub down with 1500 grit and compound with G3
Should that work? |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4105
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Rick wrote: | Dave, would you recommend any type of clear lacquer as a final coat, given that the wheels are exposed to brake dust, not forgetting road muck etc?
Interesting thread
RJ |
Rick, lacquer is only the gloss content of paint, solid paint has the lacquer in it. Original alloy wheels (like the Stag has) were not lacquered , and required regular polishing (a labour of love!), many have since been lacquered, but it often doesn't adhere very well to smooth alloys and quickly peels off.
Modern car alloy wheels are not a natural metal colour, they are all painted; with a base and then clear (lacquer) as are modern car bodies. I don't use base and clear mainly because at home I'm painting in the same garage that has all the muck from other maintenance, so you double the chance of getting dirt / dust in the paint.
I did paint some rostyle wheels and used clear over base, as the silver and black has to join smoothly and applying a final clear coat help to achieve this.
You can always add an extra clear coat, but things can start to look a bit plasticy; like the 2 pack jobs of the 80's & 90's ....
Dave |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4105
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Kevin911 wrote: | | ukdave2002 wrote: | Hi Kevin
I paint with a Devilbiss GTI pro gun, but I also use aerosols especially for small jobs; brackets and the like.
Firstly there is a huge difference in the quality of aerosols, at the NEC last year 1 firm was offering 4 or 6 500ml aerosols for £10, I got some primer and satin black, they were made by a well known firm..... frankly they were awful, poor and patchy coverage.
The aerosols supplied by my local paint supplier are brilliant; good and consistent coverage..but they are selling to professional painters not the DIY Joe Public...their products have to be good.
Most auto paint suppliers stock primer and satin black aerosol as they are often required by the trade for small jobs, if they don't stock them they will make them up for you. I used a couple of aerosols when painting my MGA ; great for small bits , places where its difficult to get a gun , you can't tell where...
Some tips:
Don't de-grease with thinners or the like, as you risk it dissolving the paint, use proper solvent wipe, clean with a tack rag prior to every coat. If you are painting bare alloy, use a very thin coat of etch prime (available in aerosols) don't rub it down, then a normal primer, rub it down with 800 grit, then the top coat. If it needs it rub the top coat down with 1500 grit and compound with G3. You only need to lacquer if the top coat is a base coat i.e. no gloss in it at all, off the shelf satin black won't need a lacquer, if you have it mixed they will ask you if you want base or solid, base will need a lacquer, solid is the same as the off the shelf stuff.
Hope this helps
Dave |
Thanks for the reply Dave
Awesome looking MGA btw!
I dont have a relationship with any local paintshops but will look into getting some spray cans made up. The reason I was going to use Rustoleum was it was recommended in a couple of Youtube videos I found on the subject.
Anyway - here is a revised method:
Rub down e.g.400 wet and dry paper
Clean with detergent, then solvent wipe
Clean with tack rag
Mask up
De grease and use tack rag again
Spray with light coat of etch primer
Leave overnight
Clean with tack rag
Spray with grey primer - three light coats applied over about half hour
Leave overnight
Rub down with 800 grit paper
Clean with solvent wipe and tack rag
Topcoat with satin black - three coats again applied within half hour
Remove masking
Leave a few days and then rub down with 1500 grit and compound with G3
Should that work? |
Sound good!
When you rub down always have some form of block, you will never get anything smooth with just paper and fingers. I know it can be tricky with wheels where there are intricate bits, but even a bit of folded cardboard as a block will help.
Post some pics 
Cheers Dave |
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mr911er
Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Posts: 31
Location: Redditch
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| Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:03 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Dave
Will start the project in a couple of weeks when I get my act together - and post a few pics.
Cheers
Kevin |
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MikeEdwards
Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2472
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 10:10 am Post subject: |
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My wheels on the daily came up quite well with aerosol paint, and the issues with them are down to my preparation (or lack thereof) rather than the method I used. They're just plain silver wheels, though.
A couple of years on, they need doing again but that's more down to scrapes (and allowing Bilberry wheel cleaner to dry on one of them) than anything else. I lacquered them (to help repel dust) but it turned the colour darker, which I think is because I'd used wheel paint in the first place which I think reacts to lacquer in much the same way that 'fake chrome' paints do. |
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