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Farmer John
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 181 Location: Manawatu NZ
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:09 pm Post subject: Clutch Stuck |
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Hi. I read very recently a post from a member concerning a clutch plate not releasing, so I hope the member finds this. Had a really good "boy look" and cannot locate that thread.
Probably the plate is adhering to the flywheel and not very strongly at that.
The best that that can be done without dismantling is to adjust all of the free play from the clutch, even increase the release travel if the adjuster makes that possible. Block the pedal hard down on the floor or tie it down, or even use a load binder or wedge on the clutch fork. The intention is to separate the plate from either the flywheel or the pressure plate by quarter of an inch or so, so that there is absolutely no chance at all of any clamping pressure on the clutch. Leave it like that for as long as possible.
John |
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gresham flyer
Joined: 06 Sep 2008 Posts: 1435
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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If the engine runs get the engine up to temperature and the bellhousing nice and hot.
Jack up the back of the car.
If the handbrake or rear foot brakes works all the better.
Now start up the car in second gear.
Keep pressing the foot brake or keep pulling on the handbrake.
Give the foot brake some sharp short pushes hard.
Press down on the clutch pedal at the same time.
This normally does the trick even on cars that have stood fro 25 years ( I know I have had one).
I must have released countless of clutches like this.
G.F _________________ Austin A30 / A35 Van.
Austin Devon.
Morris Minors.
Jaguars.
Rootes Cars.
MG.
Etc.
Viking Fibreline Caravan.
Cheltenham Sable
Shorts Built Vintage Caravan 1936. |
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welder
Joined: 26 Nov 2007 Posts: 265 Location: North Warwickshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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John, years ago I bought a Triumph Stag that had been languishing in a garage for some years and the clutch didn't release.
I got the car started and fully warmed. Switched off and engaged reverse then started the car while in gear. The clutch freed instantly.
Ian |
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P3steve
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 542 Location: Great Yarmouth, Norfolk
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="gresham flyer"]If the engine runs get the engine up to temperature and the bellhousing nice and hot.
Jack up the back of the car.
If the handbrake or rear foot brakes works all the better.
Now start up the car in second gear.
Keep pressing the foot brake or keep pulling on the handbrake.
Give the foot brake some sharp short pushes hard.
Press down on the clutch pedal at the same time.
This normally does the trick even on cars that have stood fro 25 years ( I know I have had one).
I must have released countless of clutches like this.
Has always worked for me never had to take a clutch out that was stuck. Steve (Ex Leyland mechanic) _________________ If the world didn't suck we'd all fall off |
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peter scott
Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7118 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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Of course it's right to try all the usual brutal tricks to free it but it's worth remembering that it may be impossible.
I have had one that had rusted itself into the flywheel to such an extent that even after dismantling it was necessary to use a chissel to get the last bits of clutch plate off.
Peter _________________ http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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alec.elliot
Joined: 28 Feb 2012 Posts: 58 Location: Worcestershire
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 7:26 am Post subject: |
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Having spent a couple of years rebuilding my old TR4A (RPJ365F - Where are you now?) I found the clutch stuck and after much jacking up and running, bouncing the clutch, etc it would still not free itself.
In the end I resorted to drilling a small hole in the bellhousing and inserted a small punch side onto the clutch plate and with Mrs E's foot on the cluctch pedal gave it a wack. Not strictly correct but it worked and no further problems were experienced. |
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MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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If it's a hydralulic clutch, there may not be any fluid or pressure left in the system.
But rather than running the engine on jack stands, as long as the brakes work, try a short tow, 3rd gear, engine off. _________________ Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S' |
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gresham flyer
Joined: 06 Sep 2008 Posts: 1435
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Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 11:09 am Post subject: |
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Towing a vehicle is fine if you have a private roadway.
But if you have just purchased a long term stored vehicle and got it home in your workshop it perhaps is not taxed, mot`d or insured, so towing it up and down the street in front of your house is not a good idea.
Much better to get the braking system working first, get the engine running, sort out the clutch mechanism, then jack up the car to attempt to release the clutch.
This is best carried out on the long term stored complete vehicle that ran and drove before being put in storage.
The longest stored vehicle I carried this out to was one that had been in a garage for 25 years.
It ran and drove very well afterwards.
OK I accept that some projects are perhaps beyond this approach, they would require stripping out of the mechanicals anyway, so the approach Rick carried out might be in order.
Good luck.
G.F _________________ Austin A30 / A35 Van.
Austin Devon.
Morris Minors.
Jaguars.
Rootes Cars.
MG.
Etc.
Viking Fibreline Caravan.
Cheltenham Sable
Shorts Built Vintage Caravan 1936. |
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baconsdozen
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 1119 Location: Under the car.
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Scamonomics
Joined: 28 Apr 2014 Posts: 24
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:19 pm Post subject: Success! |
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Finally, I got the clutch unstuck.
I'll add a reference to my original thread to this offshoot thread.
Anyway, here's what i did:
I replaced the seals in the slave cylinder, but that didn't seem to add any extra movement on the clutch, so I ratchet-strapped the pivot arm under the car, so that I knew for sure that the clutch was disengaging the clutch plate. then I ran the car in fourth on a jack for about ¾ of an hour. I ran it at very low speed, so low that the engine was very lumpy. the idea was that the lumpy running would apply gentle torque to the clutch, freeing it.
That didn't work, so I loosed the jack very quickly so the car slammed down on the rotating wheel, there was a 'clang' and it freed!
What a relief, I can now drive it...
I'll bleed the brakes, get her insured and take her for a spin.
many thanks
Stumbler |
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Penman
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4757 Location: Swindon, Wilts.
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Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
Once you have it on the road watch out for the possibility of the clutch dragging.
I once had a new Vauxhall HB which burnt it's clutch out in under 2,000 miles,when they dismantled it they found that only the side next to the flywheel had worn out and the splines were badly rusted, it was thought that when being put together the protective wax had been removed from the splines and then a strike was called leaving the bare metal unprotected long enough for rust to start up and then the centre plate was staying in contact with the flywheel when the clutch was depressed..
As it took a quite drastic measure to get yours unstuck it just might be that you have rust forming on that part of the splines which the centre plate slips back to when depressing the clutch. _________________ Bristols should always come in pairs.
Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10 |
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MikeEdwards
Joined: 25 May 2011 Posts: 2471 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 11:21 am Post subject: |
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alec.elliot wrote: | Having spent a couple of years rebuilding my old TR4A (RPJ365F - Where are you now?) |
O/T - just been re-taxed until the end of June 2015.
I used to have clutch trouble in a car that I stored over winter in a lock-up garage, and was told all sorts of techniques to shock it free, to warm it thoroughly and use the differing expansion rates to free it, but never had any luck and always had to remove the gearbox. Once the gearbox was out it would invariably come off with the flick of a fingernail, which was frustrating. After that I started wedging down the clutch pedal when the car was left, so that the plate wasn't in contact with the flywheel. |
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22447 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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MikeEdwards wrote: | alec.elliot wrote: | Having spent a couple of years rebuilding my old TR4A (RPJ365F - Where are you now?) |
O/T - just been re-taxed until the end of June 2015.
I used to have clutch trouble in a car that I stored over winter in a lock-up garage, and was told all sorts of techniques to shock it free, to warm it thoroughly and use the differing expansion rates to free it, but never had any luck and always had to remove the gearbox. Once the gearbox was out it would invariably come off with the flick of a fingernail, which was frustrating. After that I started wedging down the clutch pedal when the car was left, so that the plate wasn't in contact with the flywheel. |
Do the hydraulic seals not complain if the clutch pedal is left down long term? (assuming the mechanism is not mechanical only)
RJ _________________ Rick - Admin
Home:https://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk
Videos:https://www.youtube.com/user/oldclassiccarRJ/videos
OCC & classic car merchandise (Austin, Ford ++):
https://www.redbubble.com/people/OldClassicCar/shop |
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