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My new Morris 8 Series 1.
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TribalElder



Joined: 01 Oct 2012
Posts: 67
Location: Franskton Vic Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 46 E series starts at close to 100 then drops after a few minutes to 70psi. I reco'd this motor last year but before that it was quite happy to run aqt around 35-45psi.
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Ian from Oz

It's hard to run like an Emu
When you are girt by Numbats
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goneps



Joined: 18 Jun 2013
Posts: 601
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The figures quoted by TribalElder are excessive for both the Series E and earlier UB engines, indicating either that his gauge is over-reading or that the pressure relief valve is u/s, or both. The pressure relief valve should open at 60psi., therefore pressure should never exceed that figure. 50psi. at start-up and 20 at idle suggest the engine is in reasonable condition, but of course will be affected by type and grade of oil and ambient temperature, etc.

The pressure relief valve is there because the plain bearings of these motors, especially the white metalled big-end bearings of the UB engine (1934-38 Eights, ie. 35/Series I/Series II), neither need nor were designed for very high pressures. With a newly-overhauled UB motor you could expect 50-60psi. at fast idle after a cold start and, once hot, 50-55psi. at 40-45mph. and 35-40psi. at idle.

These motors operate quite satisfactorily at somewhat lower pressures, but less than 25psi. at the above cruising speed is becoming rather marginal, in my experience.

Richard
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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

goneps wrote:
The figures quoted by TribalElder are excessive for both the Series E and earlier UB engines, indicating either that his gauge is over-reading or that the pressure relief valve is u/s, or both. The pressure relief valve should open at 60psi., therefore pressure should never exceed that figure. 50psi. at start-up and 20 at idle suggest the engine is in reasonable condition, but of course will be affected by type and grade of oil and ambient temperature, etc.

The pressure relief valve is there because the plain bearings of these motors, especially the white metalled big-end bearings of the UB engine (1934-38 Eights, ie. 35/Series I/Series II), neither need nor were designed for very high pressures. With a newly-overhauled UB motor you could expect 50-60psi. at fast idle after a cold start and, once hot, 50-55psi. at 40-45mph. and 35-40psi. at idle.

These motors operate quite satisfactorily at somewhat lower pressures, but less than 25psi. at the above cruising speed is becoming rather marginal, in my experience.

Richard
Thank you for the information Peter
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rabbito



Joined: 21 Jan 2014
Posts: 15
Location: victoria australia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 11:23 am    Post subject: Y series morris utilevan rear seats Reply with quote

I would like to know if any of you morris folk own a Y series utilevan with fold down rear set if you do could you please put up some detail off the hinge system or contact me to discuss it over
Hoo Roo & have a nice day

Rabbito
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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: some more pics Reply with quote

I am am back off holiday now so will had some more pics of how i am gettin on with the car Peter Smile
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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At last the body has come off, been a real struggle, that's the worst bit over with hopefully. I will keep you up to date. Thanks Peter.


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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Update! Reply with quote

A new update for you all:

Hi a couple of more pictures here, the body is now stripped and etched primed ready for welding. I've started work on the chassis, i will upload some more pictures later on. Smile
p.s. I'm in need of a brake master cylinder, if anyone could help? Thanks.

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Last edited by peterd60 on Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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welder



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 265
Location: North Warwickshire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter, you state that you need a clutch master cylinder. Unless someone has, at some point, fitted a hydraulic clutch system you don't, as they are mechanically operated, mate.

Clutch pedal is affixed directly to the release-bearing shaft on the gearbox. If you need any of these components let me know as I have loads of spares.

Perhaps you meant brake master cylinder? In which case I regret that I can't help.

Ian
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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:15 pm    Post subject: Master cylinder Reply with quote

Hi you are correct it is a brake master cylinder I need not a clutch master cylinder thanks for the message
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Bob T



Joined: 16 Nov 2010
Posts: 128
Location: Sudbury, Suffolk

PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I know it's not local but Ian Harris sells them in the uk,
Cheers
Bob T
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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:43 pm    Post subject: Morris 8 Update Reply with quote

This is an update on my Morris 8 series 1, suspension all welded and painted, ready for the rebuild now.

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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 364
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:48 am    Post subject: Morris 8 resto Reply with quote

Looking very good.
I presume you did an alignment check and a detailed inspection for cracks ? These chassis are notorious for distortion and cracking.
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47Jag



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1480
Location: Bothwell, Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter,

Did you do the chassis repairs yourself or use a specialist?

Art
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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:45 am    Post subject: Re: Morris 8 resto Reply with quote

bjacko wrote:
Looking very good.
I presume you did an alignment check and a detailed inspection for cracks ? These chassis are notorious for distortion and cracking.


It was all crack tested and fine, it was all jigged up before it was welded, and is now ready for the body.
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peterd60



Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

47Jag wrote:
Peter,

Did you do the chassis repairs yourself or use a specialist?

Art


No I did it all myself. Now ready for the body.
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