Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[hunsta]

OK just in the middle of doing my rear wheel bearings for my Morris 8 E and on the passenger side the axle is loose in the rear hub. Is there something that secures it to the axle, like a keyway or securing bolt. I don't see anything in the manual. It moves back and forth by about 10mm. Is there a solution? Or do I need to source a new one?
Cheers
Craig
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[Rosco663]

Gidday Craig,

I am fairly certain this is a pressed interference type fit. Is there any wear on either end of the half shaft? As if so this will probably need to be tidied up prior to reinstallation. I am not sure how much pressure should be applied to refit.

I am sure the UK contingent will be able to help further

Cheers
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Rosco

[goneps]

The hub is a pressed interference fit on coarse splines, and the problem described is very common.

If the respective components have not worn badly and are still a reasonably close fit, a high-strength grade of Loctite is the best course. Annoyingly, Loctite grades and availability vary from country to country, but in New Zealand Loctite 620 has the highest shear strength and gap-filling ability (<0.25mm). Any engineering retailer will be able to advise.

The parts must be scrupulously cleaned before applying Loctite, and you'll need to work quickly when pressing the hub into place (an ordinary home-type press is more than adequate). As soon as air is excluded the Loctite will start to set, so keep it moving until in the right spot.

Whatever you do, don't attempt to weld the hub—at least not with arc or gas. The heat 'shocks' or 'freezes' the brittle shaft and will lead to failure.

Richard

[Rosco663]

Good advice regarding the Loctite Richard the need to work rapidly cannot be understated.

Have everything ready in advance press height set, press blocks correctly oriented etc. Loctite can be very unforgiving especially when used in warm conditions and can go off very quickly.

Written from experience

Cheers
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Rosco

[hunsta]

[goneps]

The hub is the soft part, so most wear will be on its internal splines and therefore probably not easy to remedy. In the old days a blacksmith could likely have worked some magic and 'shrunk' the hub, but that would still leave the problem of restoring the splines to original size. If your work machine shop can handle that, well and good; if not, looking for another hub/shaft assembly will be your best option.

Recently I was lucky to get a NOS hub for the Series 1 Tourer from the Auckland Morris Register. If the Australian clubs have their own parts sheds you might also come up trumps. Failing that, there should be a few sound used assemblies lying around.

[hunsta]

Well took said axle to work today. Pressed it out. Cleaned it up and had a look. Its not the first time this hub had been off this axle. It was a little chopped up, but the was very little play, although enough for it to be moving.
So I was recommend to Loctite 680, which has the same shear rating as 620. Applied said Loctite and press it back on.
Basicly Ill see how that copes and if it holds. If it fails, then Ill track down either a NOS hub or a good replacement set.
Thanks to Richard and Rosco for the advice.

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I really am a nice guy. Just ask anyone that hasn't met me.

[Rosco663]

Good job Craig

In your photo would that happen to be a spiral wound cork oil retainer sitting on the half shaft? I recently trashed one of these and am waiting for replacements to arrive from the UK.

These seals should be glued into the axle housing before gently sliding the half shaft back through it - to help prevent oil leaks into the brake drum. Check out Bob Bryans website for details. M8 Rear Axle Oil Sealsand M8 Rear Axle Oil Leaks

http://www.morris8-bobbryan.co.uk/articles.php

Cheers
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Rosco

[hunsta]

Yes mate that is a cork seal. I accidently broke it and have to replace it.. It doesn't look wrapped though. Looks more like a cork collar. But either way needs replacing.
BTW mate where did you get yours from? Are they the same on an E series?
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[goneps]

Cork axle shaft seals are the same for all Eights. If yours is the genuine article there'll be an internal spiral groove (scroll) which, theoretically, feeds oil back towards the diff with the rotation of the shaft, so obviously they're 'handed' and you need to be sure to place the correct one on each side. It goes without saying that when the car is reversed the scrolls feed oil through to the hubs, therefore it makes sense to avoid reversing as much as possible (the same applies to the scroll on the diff's pinion shaft).

A good source of Morris parts in Britain is Ian Harris (ian@harris84.fsnet.co.uk), but it's the sort of thing your local Morris Register branch should have in stock. You are a member, surely?

Richard

[Rosco663]

Or do the old fashioned way and make some from scratch - courtesy of Harry Edwards. I have a pair of Nylatron seals coming from Ian Harris but this could come in handy in a pinch


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Rosco

[immacon]

Hi fellas, a good suggestion was made to me: to prevent oils going in the wrong direction when reversing, just ensure the spiral groove stops short of the outer end by say a quarter inch.

The actual quote from a bloke named Peter Green is as follows:

If the seal has been made correctly, i.e. the scroll does not run the complete length of the seal but starts about a ¼” from the outer end, oil should not come out when you reverse.

[goneps]

Frankly the whole arrangement is one that would make Heath Robinson proud. To describe it as hit and miss would not be overstating the case. The most practical and effective solution is to convert to modern lip seals, which does not involve any machining of original components.

Richard