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Morris 8 Series 2 - Master cylinder
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GAZ5855



Joined: 15 Sep 2014
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:54 am    Post subject: Morris 8 Series 2 - Master cylinder Reply with quote

Hi all, Newbie here, I have just removed my master cylinder on my 1937 morris 8 series 2 and wish to replace the seals, I would be very grateful on some information on how to take the cylinder apart to tackle this, thanks in advance. Gary Rolling Eyes
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4105
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Gary and welcome Smile a few of us 8 owners are on the forum

Remove circlip ; 14 whilst taking the pressure of it by pushing on to the piston with the rod :18 or a screwdriver.



Then with the circlip removed slowly take the pressure off the piston. Smile

Dave
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GAZ5855



Joined: 15 Sep 2014
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 4:58 pm    Post subject: Cheers Dave Reply with quote

Thanks so much Dave, though I can't see a circlip? Did they all have them?
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goneps



Joined: 18 Jun 2013
Posts: 601
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2015 1:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something must be preventing the piston from popping out under spring force. If the unit is still mounted on the chassis, I hope it's not merely restrained by the pushrod (18 on the diagram).

Richard
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Rosco663



Joined: 17 Dec 2012
Posts: 257
Location: South Australia

PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday Gaz,

Welcome to the forum Very Happy

Both Dave and Richard are correct. Hopefully the following will help to identify the part (H45) in question. Once parts H41 - H48 are inserted in the correct order as per the schematic. The circlip is housed in the machined groove of the Barrel and Supply Tank (H38). The circlip goove is found on the left side of this part as per the schematic.




I have a Series I and the circlip on mine didn't have the Internal Circlip plier holes as per Dave's schematic but champhered ends - I replaced it with a conventional circlip as part of the rebuild.



Following is a cut away of a similar single circuit master cylinder. Make sure all the parts a scrupulously clean. The parts and cyliner bore are very easy to gat clean but the actual reservoir on the Lockheed Master Cylinder is very hard to access (unless you desolder everything). But no debris should be present - at all Exclamation Pay particular attention to the Compensating Port if this gets blocked the brakes can lock on Exclamation



Good luck with your project. Put up some pictures, I'm sure they would be appreciated by all.

Cheers
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Rosco
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have any thoughts on the brake cylinder rebuild grease that is available?
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KA

Better three than four.
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Penguin45



Joined: 28 Jul 2014
Posts: 381
Location: Padiham

PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red rubber grease is what you want.

P45.
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'67 Wolseley MkI 18/85, '70 Austin MkII 1800 The Landcrab Forum.
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goneps



Joined: 18 Jun 2013
Posts: 601
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never used rubber grease myself, but on the Morris Register forums there have been adverse comments from those who have, claiming that it congeals over time and clogs up the action of the pistons. Could it be that too much was used?

I've just reconditioned the slave cylinders on my Eight and did it the old-fashioned way, lubricating the cups with a smear of brake fluid.

Richard
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ka



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 600
Location: Orkney.

PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I have always just lubricated with brake fluid, but just wondered.
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KA

Better three than four.
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