Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 2:30 pm Post subject: Austin Seven Ruby ARQ rejuvenation |
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Decided that a dedicated Thread rather than adding to my first was in order, so here's the first instalment:
While I try to get my head around starting a Blog, and failing miserably, thought best to start a new Thread covering progress.
First lot of photos are of the engine/gearbox coming out.
I made a brace of hooks to screw into the spark plug holes, and used as in the photos below.
Apart from the usual Anglo-Saxon to persuade things along, a bit of Up-Down-Left-Right movement, all single handed, the engine/gearbox was soon out with the aid of block and tackle.
The clutch shaft out the side of the bell housing was the main recipient of the colourful words as it would persist in diving under that large diameter engine mount washer, and the flywheel catching on the bulkhead.
The rubber engine mounts didn't help either in not allowing the engine to slide easily along the chassis.
They also received the same words until removed.
Engine lifting hooks:
Dangling in mid-air:
Safely on its trolley:
Geoff - Progress at last! _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Second lot
I can swear in French, Polish & Afrikaans so don't upset any of my neighbours.
I didn't have any suitable chain to use with the hooks, hence the bolt and penny washers.
When I get the chain, from that loved/hated auction site, I will experiment putting the hooks into front and rear plug 'oles and then play around with the length of chain attached to each hook to see if I can get a better balance.
May try that load leveller thingy I got with the engine crane. Tried it when I moved the Marlow milling machine into the Workshop but it didn't help at all.
So far the car appears solid, with only 4 patches seen so far, 3 of which look as if they have been welded over existing metal, so I'm very tempted to cut them away just to make sure there isn't any tin worm lurking.
Spent today stripping the N/S paint, and this just confirmed my decision for a bare metal re-paint.
Result after second coat of Biostrip:
'Rust' measles:
Close-up of the measles:
Anyone have any idea what the cause could be?
Mine so far is that the cellulose undercoat has been left long enough for it to absorb moisture, but the car was registered 31 May 1935, so not during factory annual shut-down.
Geoff - Flipping heck she turned 80 last month and I forgot! _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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Third lot:
I use my L-grinder with those Poly strip disks to get down to bare metal following BioStrip, and they are very very good, just somewhat noisy though.
A couple of questions for the Collective please:
1) I intend giving each bare metal panel a coat of etch primer, but will this paint also absorb water?
What else is recommended please?
Looking at Dan Gelbart's Coatings video again, he suggests giving bare metal a coat of Gumming Solution, once scoured clean, that solution then be easily washed off with water when ready to apply paint.
2) How to get rid of paint from tight corners/spaces?
Have thought of using a wire brush on the waist-line, window recesses etc that are easy to get at, but of no use into tight spaces.
Geoff - I'm on a roll, so keep up all you slackers in the back row! _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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Fourth and counting:
Popped into my local jobbing printer earlier, and came away, £5 lighter, with a litre of Agfa Copyrapid G 643 b Preserving Gum.
Printers use it to prevent their aluminium plates from oxidising.
Told to wash it off using warm water.
The Gumming Solution works a treat.
Not a sign of rust after a few says, so thank you Dan Gelbart for that.
I'd like to use 2-pack, but don't have the necessary breathing apparatus, so it will be a case of washing down, and coating just before base coat.
Just realised that not all 2 pa k need breathing apparatus.
Geoff - Pedal-to-the-metal now that protecting the bare metal has been sorted _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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Fifth:
WAKE UP you lot.
The N/S door has had its lower few inches replaced, but the lap joint has created a perfect water reservoir on the inside, so that has to be redone with a proper TIG butt weld.
Removing all the filler used on the exterior of the door has covered everything in sight in a white dust, as I had to use a poly strip disk in the L-grinder.
Not satisfied with that 'fix' a previous 'restorer' has excelled themself as follows:
The section of the door where the lower hinge bolts to has been well and truly hacked, resulting in said door dipping by 3/8" at the body's wage line, and now well and truly out of alignment. No wonder it sounded like a jack hammer when driving.
I've reorganised the photos
Been sidetracked once again, but this is the progress so far:
1 - All that yellow paint on the door is covering the repair done that I can only describe as a bodge to beat all bodges.
I've only managed to get one photo link up, as Photobucket with iOS 8 has now become less than useless as they are now more interested in buying up other companies instead of fixing their main product!
Now looking for a better means of storage, so any advise welcome.
Geoff - I am ready to hurl all computers out the frigging window _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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Sixth and penultimate:
Did I hear 'Whew!
Ice and thin come to mind
Wonders will never cease, but oh so excruciatingly slow just getting links from Photobucket.
2 - The blue is just paint stain from the poly strip disk and not paint.
3 - N/S door and the filler used.
4 - N/S door stripped, the bodges patch visible along the bottom. May not look bodged, the lap join has left a perfect water collector inside, with the hinge side a mess.
5 - N/S door and a closer view if the patch and reason for that thick layer of filler. It took ages to remove using the poly strip disk and covered everything in sight in a layer of white dust.
6 - N/S door misalignment due to that horrible bodge at the hinge attachment point
This post has taken me 50min to do, so enough of the torture from Photobucket.
Geoff - Enough is enough of their crappy system now! _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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Seventh and last for now, other than 'wordy' updates:
More photos added to Photobucket.
I'm still using it as it's the only cloud storage that allows folders within folders, thus easy to put photos into groups.
7 - Used a poly strip disc to get to bare metal, then sprayed with phosphoric acid.
The acid turns white on contact with rust, then black once the rust is 'fixed'.
What I didn't do was use either a microfibre or tak cloth to remove the rust dust left on the surface.
Now it's either the rust dust turning black or it's actual rust still in the pores of the metal.
Next time, out of curiosity, I will do as Dan Gelbart suggests and scrub the metal with Vim in order to get into the pores, then spray with acid and see what happens.
Yes I know, overboard, but that's me
8 - More of the same, plus either a repair or normal leading work. Will find out if the O/S had the filler as well.
The 'ding' in the corner of the Sliding Roof aperture is clearly visible, and was also filled, but the lead escaped when removing paint.
Will put the frame back in before I attempt any metal bashing.
9 - This is nasty, but how many 'moderns' will still be going at this age?
Self explanatory and will test my metal bending ability. Wish I had paid more attention when Dad was repairing our cars.
More to follow later, as it would make my day if things crashed right now.
Geoff - Took her indoors for an interview yesterday. _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
Last edited by OuBallie on Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:43 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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Eighth:
What can I say except that my Moniker says it all.
This time for real, promise.
Pretty relaxed at the condition, she being in her dotage, and better that a lot of young 'uns.
Interview over, followed by a meal at Mr. Ds American Diner, A11 Southbound, between Attleborough and Wymondom, and highly recommended. Nice Harley in the entrance plus a full size wicker one as well.
10 - This is going to need careful thought and hopefully the O/S will provide the 'plans'.
11 - No real surprise, and completely open at the bottom, so something I will rectify I think.
12 - How this happened is anyone's guess, but need to think of a way to pull it out, not having a slide hammer.
Fill with lead after a little bit of hammer work probably the easiest and quickest. See 13.
13 - That ding has pushed the A-post side in towards the Windscreen and needs persuading back into place.
That's your lot for now, as I've spent the last couple of days getting rid of all of that the white filler dust!
Geoff - Need to practice stripping _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22470 Location: UK
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 9:07 am Post subject: |
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The state of your car is pretty much identical to mine except mine thankfully has less rot in the pillars. Taking the paint off is just the worst job, it seemed never ending.
Have you done the front wings yet? I found wherever I sat the dust went all over me. My front wings have got pinholes along the front edge just behind the wire. I'm not sure what to do with them.
My spare wheel well is poor, very thin with holes. You can get a panel for £140 but that is a bit expensive for me!
Forgot to say. After taking the paint off I sprayed the body with epoxy primer from rust.co.uk. Looks like good stuff. |
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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A pleasure Rick, and hopefully of help to others, irrespective of car make.
Peter,
I haven't done the Mud Shields yet, as I need to find a technique for removing paint from their underside.
My Spare Wheel appears solid, but what holes there are should be easily welded up.
The BioStrip works a treat and highly recommended.
Yesterday I continued vacuuming up that white filler dust, but it's going to take me a while yet to get rid of it all.
Gave up after about 10min and decided to removed the rear bumper.
Had to slice off one of the not so chrome bolts as it just spun in the slot.
Kept it as I want see how good my TIG work is in repairing it.
Then the saga of getting the irons off, N/S nuts no problem, but O/S saying 'NO' so resorted to spraying some Rust Freeze on them to try later.
Why oh why aren't these bolt heads against the irons rather than sandwiched between body panels, thus making then impossible to remove?
Started swearing at a precious restorer again, this time using both 1/4"W with WWII hex heads and original sized pre/post-war heads, on the Luggage Rack bracket that bolts to the body.
Not helped either by the difficulty of getting a spanner onto the rearmost bolt under the lip inside the Wheel Well, and then having to have arms like an Orangutang to get another up between the 'bleep' body parts as per Bumper Iron bolts.
All that made my morning, so cried enough, what with my N/S knee giving me grief, and family off on their yearly jolly tonight AND moving house.
Well planned - NOT!
Only consolation was using GD's mattress to lie on, and nearly falling asleep.
I have all the tools and machines, but cannot repair myself for some reason.
Geoff - BL@@dy weather, can't make its mind up this year!
Edit:
I have some RustBuster Epoxy Mastic but haven't tried it yet.
How did you apply it Peter?
Must use their FE-123 I have as well. _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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I used an abrasive disc under the wings same as everywhere else. The paint seemed tougher and harder to get off though.
I used this http://www.rust.co.uk/000-custom-epoxy-421-rust-proofing-body-primer/p501025 which I sprayed. I shall get some epoxy mastic to do all the bits and bobs I think or I shall spend half my life cleaning the spraygun out. I am short of space for hanging parts up to paint. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4123 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Geoff
Great thread
The measles are almost certainly due to the undercoat being left too long before the top coat went on; by too much time a day can be too long.
If you are going to leave undercoat any lenth time before the top coat an epoxy primer is the thing too use. many a fine looking respray has been ruined months later as micro blisters appear in the top coat, due to trapped moisture absorbed by primer or filler.
Looking forward to the next instalment
Cheers
Dave |
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petermeachem
Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Posts: 358 Location: Chichester Sussex
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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Except Dave mine was exactly the same and I can't imagine anyone has stripped the paint off before.
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OuBallie
Joined: 02 Mar 2013 Posts: 225 Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk
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Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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I thought mine was bad, but BH your's takes 1st Prize without doubt.
It must be pretty well 100% humid in Brum for that level of rust.
Your car must have been left outside in underwear for a while.
Surely a company like Austin would have done their best to prevent this happening, even for the Seven.
Geoff - Heatwave? Huh, another Michael Fish forecast! _________________ Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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