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MikeEdwards
Joined: 25 May 2011 Posts: 2473 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2024 7:08 pm Post subject: |
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Cheers, I did think about some sort of pipe - when I was soaking the bottom of the rear window frame (which is 5' long on a Viva estate) I got a piece of something like 30mm diameter pipe, cut the top off and capped the ends.
The channel itself requires quite a bit of repair, so I might have a stab at making a replacement from scratch. It's a bit of a shape, and the sections are quite small, which makes it all the more difficult of course. I haven't had chance to touch it for a few days as I've been making stuff for other people. And it's been cold. _________________ 1976 Vauxhall HP Firenza, 1976 Vauxhall Sportshatch (x2), 1986 Audi coupe quattro, 2000 Audi TT |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3821 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2024 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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The 1942 Commer engine oil drained and coolant drained. Ready to be given new for the show season ahead. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3821 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2024 10:12 am Post subject: |
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Continuing on the side of other jobs to rebuild our 1955 sidevalve Hillman engine...replacing the pistons means a complete engine stripdown as there is so little internal space in the block to get in to. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2024 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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Rootes75 wrote: | Continuing on the side of other jobs to rebuild our 1955 sidevalve Hillman engine...replacing the pistons means a complete engine stripdown as there is so little internal space in the block to get in to. |
Would it be possible to explain the problem with some photos? If not, no problem.
I remember when I did my Austin Seven engine, the block and crankcase had to be separated; not something you need to deal with ...but with bores measuring 2.2" there was not enough room for the con rod big ends pass through. The fun bit came when tying to lower the assembled block onto all four pistons together!.
Some ingenious ways round have been thought up over the years. |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3821 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2024 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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I do have a workshop manual for the car, it says to refit the piston is the removal process backwards...makes sense.
But to remove the piston it says to 'withdraw assembly through the underside of the block'...again this makes sense but...a piston certainly won't pass the crankshaft when still in situ but it makes no reference at all to removing it! _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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peter scott
Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7120 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2024 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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You may find that you can get it passed the crank if you get the side of the piston on the side of the crank rotate them together. I have done this in my engine (as suggested in the manual) but because I'm on +60 thou pistons I could only get four of them to pass.
Peter _________________ http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2024 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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Rootes75 wrote: | I do have a workshop manual for the car, it says to refit the piston is the removal process backwards...makes sense.
But to remove the piston it says to 'withdraw assembly through the underside of the block'...again this makes sense but...a piston certainly won't pass the crankshaft when still in situ but it makes no reference at all to removing it! |
Can't the pistons and rods be taken out the top of the block? |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3821 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2024 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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No, that's not possible. The con rods won't pass through the cylinder bores.
We did try passing the piston around the crankshaft from below whilst turning the crank to give it the maximum gap but it still wasn't enough. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2024 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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Do you think it might be possible to push the pistons out and remove them from the rods while in situ?
or is there not enough room for that either? |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3821 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2024 9:38 am Post subject: |
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Now Ray you can do that to some extent. With the con rod raised as high as it can in the bore it just raises enough so the gudgeon pin hole on the piston is just above the top of the block, only just though.
We have tried reversing this, piston down through the top, con rod up through the bore but with the head studs and the minimal clearance of the pin hole we can't line them up correctly or have enough room to tap the gudgeon pins in.
I will take some photos and copy the instructions from the book to here so you can see how confusing it is. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2024 10:18 am Post subject: |
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Rootes75 wrote: | Now Ray you can do that to some extent. With the con rod raised as high as it can in the bore it just raises enough so the gudgeon pin hole on the piston is just above the top of the block, only just though.
We have tried reversing this, piston down through the top, con rod up through the bore but with the head studs and the minimal clearance of the pin hole we can't line them up correctly or have enough room to tap the gudgeon pins in.
I will take some photos and copy the instructions from the book to here so you can see how confusing it is. |
I can see how frustrating that must be
This is where I would just blunder in...only to find - like you have - that it wouldn't quite work.
Hats off to you for thinking it through.
It does look like you have run out of options short of crankshaft removal.
Never mind...it's just nuts and bolts!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Just one more thought. There is usually a bit of surplus material at the bottom of the bores. Couldn't you file just enough away to allow the rod to go up a bit? |
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V8 Nutter
Joined: 27 Aug 2012 Posts: 588
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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2024 11:31 am Post subject: |
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When I did it for a living I have worked on several engines, where the only way to take them apart was Rays suggestion. Push the rod up as far as possible then remove the piston pin, I am fairly sure the head studs had to be removed from the block to clear everything. I seem to remember early Land Rovers were one of those engines. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2024 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, the original 1600 engine on the 80 was a dead duck wasn't it.? Even the later 2 litre engine persisted with the dreaded by pass oil filter but at least you could pass the rods through the bores. |
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Rootes75
Joined: 30 Apr 2013 Posts: 3821 Location: The Somerset Levels
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Posted: Tue Jan 23, 2024 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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We'll drop the crankshaft. At least then we can check everything over before rebuilding it. _________________ Various Rootes Vehicles. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6319 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2024 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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I have purchased this kit for changing the front upper and lower ball joints on the Range Rover.
It is very substantial but only a fraction of the price of a dedicated extractor. I just hope it works!
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