Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2021 11:35 pm Post subject: Fitting guttering |
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On my pick up truck i will shortly be fitting a section of new guttering to the newly repaired cab.
The gutter is a sort of "L" section originally sandwiched and spot welded between 2 other layers. I can't attach it this way without entirely cutting off the roof, so have to attach it some other way.
My plan is to either:
A) Tin both faces with solder paste. Then drill and tap and attach the gutter with M3 screws from underneath. Weld the heads of the screws which will melt the solder together. Grind off the remains of the screw heads flush. Warm up and caulk joint with thin electrical solder.
Or
B) paint both surfaces with epoxy primer. Drill and tap and attach the gutter with M3 screws. Assemble with some sort of caulking or mastic sandwiched in between.
Fill over countersunk screw heads.
Any thoughts on the above? |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4109 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2021 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Hi
Re plan A, the welding heat will burn the flux resulting in areas where the solder just wont take.
With plan B, rather than tap, as I assume you are tapping sheet steel, why not use self tapping screws?
Other methods would be simply to glue the guttering on with one of the automotive adhesives that are used these days instead of spot welding?
Or simply solder the guttering on, or punch a hole in the guttering and plug weld?
How many spot welds hold the roof on? it only takes a few seconds to drill them out, use a flat face spot weld remover drill bit so that only one of the panels has a hole in, remove the remnants of the old gutter, fit the new gutter, and drill it with the same flat face drill through the holes in the first panel drilled, then plug weld.
Dave |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2021 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Dave,
Hadn't thought of self tappers. I'm only replacing a part of the gutter about 600mm long and leaving the rest so will have to butt weld the new bit to the end of the old bit where I've cut it and then blend it in. The other end gets welded to the windscreen pillar and blended in with body lead. Removing the roof would require major surgery I can't even get access or line of site to a single spot weld. Plus I've already applied lots of body lead to it, so it's definitely not coming off.
I've now made the gutter and trial fitted it with screws. Will tin both faces with solder paste and screw, then sweat it all together. looking at it now I think I can then run in solder to finally caulk the join. |
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