Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rick]

Not sure what brand of free Coke came out of a machine at a firm I used to work at, but leave some old car badges in a cup of it for the day, and they'd come out looking much better by hometime. Everyone else around me used to drink their's ..

R
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[rustyreks]

I still think the best overall Number one contender for all round rust

control should be awarded to electrolysis i use the mollasas

method and phosphoric acid but electrolysis is cheap fast and effective is

more effective as it removes grease dirt and paint as well as rust

mollasas wont touch paint which in some cases is good so you know what

the original color was.I have used electrolsis on very fragile parts and it

has cleaned them up with out damaging.The other useful point is that it

doesnt remove good metal which is good if the metal is thin sand balsting

will just blow holes in thin metal.The mollasas is good to throw parts in

when you dont have time to work on them and come back to them later

when it suits couple of things it does need to be warm to work effectively

so winter is not a good time to derust it can start to smell so keep it down

wind and it evaporates so the water to be topped up so keep an eye on

water levels it also is lsow may take 2-3 weeks on badly rusted item

electrolysis is finished normally by the next day rustyreks

[wrinx]

Thanks for that, just done a quick Google and it looks interesting. As does painting items with phosphoric acid as they begin to rust again, which will happen quickly.

Apparently the acid provides a great seal by adding another oxygen molecule to the fresh rust, my eyes started to cross over and roll around inside my sockets at this point, but it sounded good...

wrinx
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[Greeney in France]

I think I have said this before but I now use "bilt hambers" deox C powder I am ready to chuck it out after about 8months and tons of derusting it is fantastic Normally it takes 24hrs but it is taking a week now and its grubby
I have boiled it too to improve it
http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxc.html

one 4kg bag did a large dustbin 3/4 full about 70ltrs
It doesnt smell obnoxiously either just a bit tinny!!
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We do these things not to escape life but to prevent life escaping us

[D4B]

Dug out this old post to say how pleased I am with this product:

[Kelsham]

I tried mollasses and found it liked to be kept warm to work effectively.

It also made strange changes to a cast exhaust manifold I tried to clean, the surface could be wiped away?

Then there is the smell.

I prefer citric acid bought off Ebay, it works well and doesn't smell.

I am told it is the same as the Bilt Hamber Deox c. but considerably less costly.


Kels.

[D4B]

The Deox C doesn't smell either

[MikeEdwards]

I also suspect Deox C is just citric acid at a higher price, though I have no proof. Both work in much the same way, though citric is cheaper and gets cheaper again if you buy more of it. Deox C isn't a bad product, and I like that it leaves clean metal, but then so does citric.

I agree with the comments about electrolysis, I've got some lower suspension parts that are coming up lovely in the tank.

[ukdave2002]

Citric acid works the same way as my molasses concoction; its a " Chelation agent" Chelating comes from the Greek word Chele which means claw. Chelating agents are organic molecules that form a structure like a claw and hold metal atoms withing their molecules so they dissolve in solution (acording to Wiki !!!).

D4B, did the stuff come out clean or did you have to wire brush it?, my molasses stuff needs wire brushing afterwards....?

My current practice is:

Big sized stuff go's to a firm with tanks that can take a whole shell and is chemically stripped, like I did with the MGA...whatever they use??.

Medium, local blast cleaner.

Small stuff, I may either blast clean at home or chuck in the molasses mixture.

All stuff then gets treated to phosphoric acid before its painted. Phosphoric acid has the benefit of forming a protective iron phosphate to prevent re-rusting of the cleaned steel.

I'll let you know in 10 years if this works

Dave

[Kelsham]

Sounds a good regime Dave, the primer and top coats are just as important as the preparation they stop air reaching the metal.

One thing I noticed when using citric acid on a couple of spanners, they received no further treatment but stayed rust free for some time.

I usually use Jenolite after treating metal with citric acid and find it provides a certain amount of protection for a few months if undercover.
A wipe down with Jenolite again before painting completes the process. Useful when carrying out long term repairs.

Might not be required if the spanners are any indication.

Regards Kels

[ukdave2002]

[D4B]

I have found with the Deox C that it is necessary to treat with primer
quickly.... I left one item not primed overnight and it was quite rusty
again the next day