Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

buzzy bee · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3382 Location: South Cheshire

Hi

I can't remember the sprays name but a high percentage was silicone, after reading the can! whoops!

Laughing

I quite like the idea of snakes in the Workshop, I used to have a pet Rat Snake in my bedroom when I was younger! hehe

Cheers

Dave

Greeney in France · Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 6:36 pm Post subject:

I spoke to a friend of mine this weekend who is a pro paint sprayer I asked for a definitive answer to the 2K paints not using a hardener, he said a big fat no, he said it will dry by touch but never dry properly and never be resilient to anything such as petrol, even bird lime or fly squash would damage it.
Polishing it would scratch it Cool

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Uncle Joe · Guest

The one thing that I wonder about is why a pro painter (the one UK mentioned) would want to omit hardener in the first place... Question

Greeney in France · Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 7:45 pm Post subject:

Hmmm?
Could be just the cyanide thing?
My guy did say there are 1K paints available and there are Cyanide free 2k paints but neither are good enough in his estimation for classic cars that you will treasure, he would consider it a blow over job on a general run around Rolling Eyes

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Uncle Joe · Guest

I'm not saying that I'm going to use them on my next spray job, but I'm getting more and more certain that the way forward is to use Water Based Paints. I have used them once, or rather observed useage, and was impressed.

Any comments?

buzzy bee · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3382 Location: South Cheshire

Hi

My mate uses water based all of the time, and has good results, I can't say much more about it though!

Cheers

Dave

Job-Rated · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 1010 Location: Sugarbeet County

As I understand it, the automotive industry in general is being urged/advised/told to move over to water-based to stay in line with eco-friendly guidelines.
Two Pack is no longer available at my sprayer's suppliers.
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Uncle Joe · Guest

The way I figure Water Based Paints are as follows. Soon, we are going to have no choice, and it will be the only paint that we can use, like it or lump it!

For home use, they have advantages. They dont smell much, and flow well. Therefore the chances of a good finish for an amateur are improved. They are supposed to be surface tolerant, ie can be sprayed over any other kind of paint. Not something that I would personally do though, as I always want to know the condition of the substrate.

Being able to be sprayed at home means that a surface can be taken to bare metal, and then covered before flash rust sets in. As this can appear on the journey between home and the painters, thats a definate plus.

Disadvantages? One small, one big. The small one. Though water based clears are becoming available now, it was previously recommended that they be covered with 2K clear, which still for most of us warranted a trip to the painters.

The big one? Its new technology, and if there is one thing that pepole have difficulty in accepting is new technology. We've all heard someone say ''Its not as good as it used to be''

I know also that there are some that are going to say ''yes, but that kind of paint wasnt originally used'' but come on guys, does it matter? Nobody is going to do a chemical analysis are they? And lets face it, none of us have original cars!

Old-Nail · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 853

Roll on the invention of non-toxic clear coat and then we'll all be happy.
I don't own a vehicle that is completely original so I have no problem with having it painted in a modern finish. The only drawback is the 'plasticky' appearance of modern paints when compared to original, but UJ has mentioned somewhere that this effect can be reduced somehow.

I've been spending some time on the US forums where the finish on the cars is amazing, they use an epoxy primer (POR?) and spray 2k paint over that to make the finish bombproof!
I'd be much happier to know that the paint on my rebuilt car was actively preventing any further corrosion than simply looking pretty, that way the vehicle could be used in all weathers as intended without fussing too much about the return of rust.

Show cars and garage queens may have different requirements but cars that are actually used as intended need a tough, non permeable finish. Without ovens that's a difficult process to replicate.

Uncle Joe · Guest

What they mean by the expression epoxy primer is a 2K self etch primer. These have a tendency to etch and kill microscopic rust. some people do use POR, but my own choice is to use one from whoever manufacturers the rest of the paint that I will use.

Nowadays, I buy my paint from one manufacturer, due to the fact that thoughI have had small problems with paint from others, I have never had such from this one. So for me at least, the choice is a no brainer. This same company now has a low VOC clear on the market as well! Great!

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4114 Location: South Cheshire

bob2 · Joined: 06 Dec 2007 Posts: 1727 Location: Malta

what ratio should 2 pack be mixed?
I was thinking in this order paint:hardner:thinner 4:1:1

What do you guys think?

Uncle Joe · Guest

Bob2, is there any possibility of you doing a test piece? I have an idea for you that might just work, and make things easier...

pigtin · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 1879 Location: Herne Bay

I went through all this change-to-water-base business in the Tenpin Bowling industry in the 90s. we previously used Nitro-cellulose to finish the wooden lanes... It was leathal, the flashpoint so low if you sucked a polo-mint near it you were taking a risk.
There were all sorts of dire predictions about the problems of using water based lacquer because the nitro went down so easily... someone would walk up the lane pouring it from a watering can and another following behind with a specially shaped broom to spread it. It was like living inside a bomb.
I often think about this when I spray cellulose in my garage and worry about it's demise. Again, it's so easy. But in years to come we'll probably look back and wonder how we survived using such a volatile material.
They developed simple user-friendly water based lacquer for bowling lanes, it will probably be the same with automobiles.

Greeney in France · Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 6:18 pm Post subject:

Before I became a psychologist I was a carpenter and joiner for 15 year I regularly used something called "Danish oil" this has a very high flash point, I have seen a rag ignite itself just laying around
When I fitted up my lights in the barn my electrician warned me that they should all be enclosed and gasket sealed if I was spraying, even plugs and light switches can create a spark from thinner fumes Rolling Eyes

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