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TTotal
Joined: 30 Aug 2008 Posts: 90 Location: Titchfield Common, Fareham
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Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 1:07 pm Post subject: Anti Freeze advice |
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Good day all, before it gets too late in the year ( and if we can still rely on the "seasons" ) what AF should I use in my old motor ? Its all iron I believe.
As a lad in the late sixties I recall the "new " stuff that was for Alloy blocks, was not good for iron...
Anyone help with this one?
Best wishes
John _________________
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euronerd
Joined: 13 Oct 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Yorkshire
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:44 am Post subject: |
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Even an alloy block will contain some iron bits, so I wouldn't worry too much. I just use the cheapest, currently Screwfix. There will in any case, be some sort of guidance on the container.
Geoff. |
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Greeney in France
Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 1173 Location: Limousin area of France
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:40 am Post subject: |
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I am glad someone actually realises what antifreeze is, I have tried to tell so many people who only put water in "as its doesnt matter in the summer"
Quote: | I just use the cheapest, |
You will more than likely get just ethylene glycol based antifreeze with a cheap product, better quality and yes higher priced will have inhibitors too.
manufacturer antifreeze/ inhibitors are usually the best quality
Also not using Tap water helps especially in hard water areas, use filtered rain water or demineralised _________________ www.OldFrenchCars.com
We do these things not to escape life but to prevent life escaping us |
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peter scott
Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7126 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:45 am Post subject: |
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Hi John,
Whilst protection from freezing is clearly important the other important aspect of antifreeze is its corrosion inhibiting properties. For that second reason it is important to use antifreeze throughout the whole year.
Peter
edit: Sorry for the duplication of Greeney's post, he just beat me to it but you can't emphasise enough the corrosion point. _________________ http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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TTotal
Joined: 30 Aug 2008 Posts: 90 Location: Titchfield Common, Fareham
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:09 am Post subject: |
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As always, the best advice - thanks guys very much, that helps a lot.
Billy is probably running on 100% water at the moment as during the year he has lost a few pints here and there (though non in the oil I hasten to add...) The level drops quickly then seems to settle at about 1/8th inch above the top honeycomb. I keep it about an inch higher... is this too high so it is thrown out of the overflow automatically?
The temperature guage has never ever risen above the mid point on the guage even whist struggling up Abbotsbury Hill on a hot day, so it's not boiling away.
Best wishes and thanks again,
John _________________
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Rick Site Admin
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22473 Location: UK
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TTotal
Joined: 30 Aug 2008 Posts: 90 Location: Titchfield Common, Fareham
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:17 am Post subject: |
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euronerd wrote: | Even an alloy block will contain some iron bits, so I wouldn't worry too much. I just use the cheapest, currently Screwfix. There will in any case, be some sort of guidance on the container.
Geoff. |
That'll be a Yorkshireman then !
PS So am I - from Harrogate _________________
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TTotal
Joined: 30 Aug 2008 Posts: 90 Location: Titchfield Common, Fareham
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:18 am Post subject: |
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Rick wrote: | Something else, coolant with a/f is more searching that water on its own, so if you have a leak anywhere, it'll leak more once a/f is in the mix
Rick |
Yeh Rick, was dreading that one coming... (Standing by with a load of new hoses at the moment !)
Thanks!
John _________________
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TTotal
Joined: 30 Aug 2008 Posts: 90 Location: Titchfield Common, Fareham
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Greeney in France wrote: |
Also not using Tap water helps especially in hard water areas, use filtered rain water or demineralised |
Thought of that one, thanks Greeney
We have a water butt full of the stuff ! So I am not going to use the deionised waters you can buy at £3.50 a litre ( another Yorkshireman!)
Cheers
John _________________
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47p2
Joined: 24 Nov 2007 Posts: 2009 Location: Glasgow
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:51 am Post subject: |
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TTotal wrote: | .......The level drops quickly then seems to settle at about 1/8th inch above the top honeycomb. I keep it about an inch higher... is this too high so it is thrown out of the overflow automatically?
John |
John,
If I were you I would try leaving the level at the 1/8th inch above the top honeycomb. This seems to be the settled water level and as Billy does not have any overheating issues it should not cause any problems.
You will have to keep an eye on the temperature gauge as usual and also check the radiator level to ensure it does not drop further.
If I top up my Rover P2 to the brim the excess coolant is pushed out of the overflow and the level settles just above the top of the core. _________________ ROVER
One of Britain's Fine Cars |
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TTotal
Joined: 30 Aug 2008 Posts: 90 Location: Titchfield Common, Fareham
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 10:05 am Post subject: |
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47p2 wrote: | TTotal wrote: | .......The level drops quickly then seems to settle at about 1/8th inch above the top honeycomb. I keep it about an inch higher... is this too high so it is thrown out of the overflow automatically?
John |
John,
If I were you I would try leaving the level at the 1/8th inch above the top honeycomb. This seems to be the settled water level and as Billy does not have any overheating issues it should not cause any problems.
You will have to keep an eye on the temperature gauge as usual and also check the radiator level to ensure it does not drop further.
If I top up my Rover P2 to the brim the excess coolant is pushed out of the overflow and the level settles just above the top of the core. |
Thanks for the confirmation, will do just that.
Cheers
John _________________
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euronerd
Joined: 13 Oct 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Yorkshire
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:08 am Post subject: |
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I based my somewhat rash statement, at the top, on the quality of the antifreeze that was available when your car was new, and also what had been put in subsequently - i.e. as it became older, but not yet collectable. I agree about inhibitors and the general improved chemistry of modern products but, depending on the age of your vehicle, much of the science behind the formulation surely wasn't available. And, as happens with increasing frequency these days (old-timer speak), you can pay a premium and still come away with an inferior product. Screwfix's finest contains inhibitors anyway (no, I'm not on commission)
Geoff. |
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wrinx
Joined: 22 Jun 2008 Posts: 142 Location: Derbyshire
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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I'm still amazed some people run modern (or any!) car without AF I have run for short periods, like TTotal, before eradicating leaks
I use Halfords longlife stuff (5yrs I think) but it's become very expensive recently and I've found it's leaving a crusty pink residue everywhere...so will be looking for cheaper/better alternatives!
wrinx _________________ www.alfaromeo155.co.uk | www.alfamatta.co.uk
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buzzy bee
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3382 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
If Billy is settling at a level and is not getting too hot, then leave him be, in my oppinion. As he is warming up he is obviously just expeliing the excess water you keep giving him. See how he goes, if he starts getting hot, then you can do something about it. IO just make sure you can wet your fingers and the element stuff is not uncovered. I also use antifreeze, much stronger than most, all year, they say do it one strength for one temp, stronger if it is really cold, well I do it as it is expected to be very cold, and then add a little more for good measure. My feeling is it may help keep ernie a little cooler in the summer!
Remember to add more antifreeze, if you are filling it with water every now and then!
I used to have to antifreeze 10 or 20 crop sprayers, each needed about 25 litres of antifreeze depending on the size, cars are a doddle, compared to the hoses you have on crop sprayers!
Cheers
Dave |
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Nic Jarman
Joined: 05 Oct 2008 Posts: 1031 Location: Stoke by Clare, Suffolk
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Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 12:07 pm Post subject: antifreeze |
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Modern antifreeze contains mono ethylene glycol (meg) which is fine for all types of dissimilar materials. So use 50% antifreeze and 50% deionised water, tap water contains calcium and other compounds. Rain water may be a little acidic and should be filtered, who can be bothered with that. Do not worry about the colour as this is just a dye and does not effect the performance. The older antifreeze used alcohol and will rot your block, rad, hoses and does not taste very nice. I have found Silverhook products to be very reliable and cost effective. Cheap and good, what more could a yorkshireman want. I use tyre wax on my hoses but that is another story.
Nic
Last edited by Nic Jarman on Fri Oct 24, 2008 8:03 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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