Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rick]

Wow that has come out nicely, what brushes did you use?

R
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Rick - Admin
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[bob2]

wow really nice finish
I need some more info on this please, maybe my next project (if theres any) will be done this way, much cheaper than a respray!!

[Timstopp]

Everyone - thanks!
Rick - brushes were by Purdey (american ) but came highly recommended by Craftmaster (who I got the paint from)
Bob2 - sensible preperation is the key - if you Pm me I can tell you exactly what I did (and where I went wrong - back panel of car!)
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North Essex,UK - Morris 8 tourer 1936 - Jaguar x350

[peter scott]

[Timstopp]

OK
After much research and even more practical experimentation, here are my notes and tips on coachpainting.
Notes
1) Do buy primer, undercoat and enamel from the same manufacturer. Not all enamels are equal. Do get PPA paint adjuster. You will need it.
2) Use high build zinc primer. I used this both on panels that I had dipped back to bare metal and panels where I left the existing paint in situ.
3) Use high build undercoat of the correct colour for the enamel topcoat.
4) Get really good brushes I used Purdey synthetic brushes which were recommended by people who coachpaint for a living. I bought a 2" and a 3", but in truth only really used the 3"(it's more versatile than it sounds)
5)1930 4 door saloon, used 3/4 litre of each enamel, undercoat and primer.
6)Do not be tempted into a Rolls Royce finish on an Austin 7, do not put an Austin 7 finish on a Rolls Royce. Be realistic.
7)Wear latex gloves at all times - grease in finger prints will ruin your day.
Plan your painting - remember you always need a wet edge, on large panels try to use a swage line if you are unsure if this is possible.

What I did
1) removed trim and panels and doors and anyhing else that was feasible. It is easier to paint a door flat than upright!
2) Mask off anything at this stage and do a really good job of this.
3)for already painted panels Start sanding using 400 grit, by hand using a block and using DA sander. Aim for a consistent dull finish, this will allow you to see dents (darker areas) and high areas (where you sand through to the original undercoat, primer or metal)
4) Panel beat dents or use filler sparingly. I used a scratch filling compound only as I dislike filler. Wipe down car to remove all dust and then clean panels with panel wipe.
5) apply primer to previously painted surfaces and bare metal. This stuff goes on really thick and leaves really bad brush marks. Use PPA adjuster(as a guide I used about 5% on a moderate day (18c) to stop it drying too quickly which keeps brush marks to a minimum.
6)sand using 400 grit, by hand using a block and using DA sander. This will create clouds of dust and once again you will be able to see paint defect/lows highs etc. You must correct any you wish these at this stage.You should sand until brush marks are pretty much all gone.
7)Wipe down panels to remove dust, wash with panel wipe, wipe with a tack rag and then paint with undercoat. Stand back and admire how well it is going!
8)Sand carefully so as not to go through undercoat (I used 400 grit lightly (you can use 800 grit and it will take you twice as long...), remove all brush marks. You must achieve a nice even matt and smooth surface
9) examine carefully, this is the state of paint that will show through under the gloss.
10)Wipe off panels to remove all dust, and then wash with panel wipe again, wipe with a tack rag immediately before.....
11)Paint with enamel top coat, this need to go on as thick as possible on flat panels, and as thick as possible on vertical ones but so that it does not run or slump. I used 10% PPA which gave me a working time with the enamel of about 15-20 minutes. This means you must complete painting any large panels in this time. On vertical panels lay off vertically (this helps prevent runs) Paint somewhere that has no dust in the atmosphere and wear a hat, even if you are bald.
Do be amazed as after 5 minutes or so any brush marks flow out and leave you with a mirror finish. Do not be too concerned about any runs or paint slumping. Enamel goes on so thick there is plenty of opportunity to knock it back after about 5 weeks with 1200 wet and dry. Indeed the paint is so shiny it looks wet, and maybe it would look better cut back in any case.
12) the joy of coachpainting is that now the prep has been done correctly, you can sand back the topcoat and apply another quickly and with ease should the need arise.
13) I am happy to answer any questions and can be contacted tim at essexnetworking dot co dot uk

It really is worth doing as you get a great sense of satisfaction, and the cost of the materials and paint came to under £150. It is also nice to see how amazed people are that painting with brushes is as good as (if not better than) spray painting.
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North Essex,UK - Morris 8 tourer 1936 - Jaguar x350

[Rick]

fascinating, thanks Tim. I'm tempted to have a go myself sometime now! perhaps with something small like the 32 Minor one day

R
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Rick - Admin
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[bob2]

excellent write up, but have a couple of questions,
what is a wet edge and what are swage lines and what is a tack rag.

Sorry if this might sound stupid but I am not english !!!

I am tempted to do it some day but do they have many colours available?
I'd be tempted to do the surf blue mini but do not think that surf blue would feature in their colour chart!!!!

[peter scott]

Hi Tim,

Thanks very much for an excellent write-up. I wonder if Rick could cut this out of the thread and make it sticky.

Well done!

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[47p2]

A wet edge is a line of wet paint to which you bring your next loaded paintbrush towards thus allowing wet paint to merge with wet paint and blending together. If you do not have a wet edge say, in the middle of a panel you will find it impossible to blend the wet paint into the dry edge of the dry paint. Hope this makes sense

Swage lines are contour lines of the bodywork which if you paint up to a swage line it is much easier to disguise the end of the paint.

Tac rags are for wiping down the prepared bodywork before painting to remove any residue, dust particles etc


First class paint job, you realise there will be a queue at your door for your services now
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ROVER
One of Britain's Fine Cars

[Dirty Habit]

What a great job...well done
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1964 International Harvester

[bob2]

All clear now thanks 47p2
do you need a tack rag cause I use clean ones I have in the garage with with thinner?
Is this good?

[47p2]

Tac rags are made from special material with cleaning solvents specially designed to remove grease etc. Using a rag from the garage usually contains lint particles which can leave small particles on the bodywork prior to painting and you wont see them till the paint is applied
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ROVER
One of Britain's Fine Cars

[Timstopp]

Just to clarify, the panel wipe is used to remove surface contaminants such as grease, traces of wax, fingerprints etc
Tack rags, are impregnated with sticky stuff (I don't know what - they feel slightly waxy) and are intended to remove all dust particles, bits of hair, swarf, lint from using the panel wipe etc , and should be used immediately before painting.
That is how I used them anyway - I am always ready to be corrected
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North Essex,UK - Morris 8 tourer 1936 - Jaguar x350

[bob2]

from where do you buy them, from paint suppliers?

[Timstopp]

Yes, go to any decent vehicle paint supplier and they will have proper tack rags and panel wipe, not a good idea to get them from a local autofactor .
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North Essex,UK - Morris 8 tourer 1936 - Jaguar x350