Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[bob2]

Last week I was infact thinking of the talbot and what had happened to it!!

[Nic Jarman]

Thanks Bob.
After work I had a bit of time to work on the Talbot so it was get the head on and the pushrods/rockers/pivots/oil pipe.

The second pushrod did not feel the same as the first and the ends are burred. I compared it with another pushrod and to my utter disbelief it is too big by about .5mm. These pushrods are critical and it was this pushrod that gave us trouble last year although at the time I did not realise that it is too big. And the ends have not been case hardened.

So lets recap; conrod was over tightened so it distorted and the clinch bolt had fractured, the cushdrive springs for the dynostarter were put back in broken, a burnt exhuast valve was also put back in and a pushrod was replaced with one that fouled in the rocker cup and the camfollower cup. Nice work and a bill for £7000. So that is how much incompetence is worth. Remember always get a testimonial before you hand over your car and your hard earned cash (the previous owner did not!). This is not hard to get right. Rant, rant, cheesed off, the rebuild has stalled again.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Keith D]

Nic,

My heart goes out to you! Some people should have their fingers chopped off before they're allowed near a motorcar!

Keith (currently in Felixstowe!)

[Salopian]

A few years ago before I retired I acted for a client whose Talbot engine had failed within 100 miles or so after a specialist (and expensive) rebuild due to errors in the work.
I've just sorted the Alvis engine out - it was rebuilt in Australia some years ago and the current work was due to poor standards and assembly then so you are not alone Nic.
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Jonathan Butler
Alvis SD 12/50 1928 MG TD 1950

[Nic Jarman]

Thanks K and J, I had almost forgot one really funny thing that happened when I was de-coking. I removed one of the inlet valves and the carbon buildup stuck inside the head and the valve came out almost clean.

OK on with the rebuild, the pushrod has been put in a lathe and the ends trimmed down. I then heated the ends and plunged them into oil. So now the engine is back into one piece-ish and the painting has started. The rocker cover shows the colour quite well, it is ivory.



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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Nic Jarman]

I just cannot help it. I have to share with you the Art Deco beauty of this engine before manifolds and stuff are bolted on.

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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[bob2]

nice work nic, that engine will be a nightmare to keep clean though

[Nic Jarman]

Oh poo. I did not want to put the engine in with the manifolds on as they are difficult to replace and they would cost an arm and a leg, also quite heavy. The engine was an absolute f****r to put in and I should not have had the head on it. Now there is not enough room to fit the inlet manifold so OFF WITH IT'S HEAD!!

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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[47Jag]

Nic,

Could you not just raise one side of the engine to get the manifold on?

Art

[Nic Jarman]

Whish I could but the sump goes under the bulkhead and the front engine mounts are tappered towards the front. The manual shows the head coming off with the valve gear in place but my sockets would not clear the rocker carriers. So the head is back off again, gasket for the water manifold has been cut and the nuts for the exhaust manifold have gone walkies. Found that they are metric with imperial head sizes . Metric with metric heads will do. Hopefully I will have the head back on tonight - who needs sleep anyway!
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Salopian]

Reminds me of my late Father recalling garage signs saying No Talbots in his youth. Rather like vintage Sunbeams some jobs can be very awkward.
To reline clutch on my Alvis 12/50 lift floor remove carden shaft (6 bolts) thrust bearing (another 5 or 6) dismanltle clutch. About 60 mins max to in pieces. On my Sunbeam start by removing the rear axle so you can move the torque tube back off the gearbox (say axle stands etc much lying on back plus half a day at least - you get the picture) then remove gearbox and so on. A good weekends hard work.
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Jonathan Butler
Alvis SD 12/50 1928 MG TD 1950

[Nic Jarman]

The manifolds were fitted to the head with a little fettling and new gaskets cut.

Then pop the head on, adjust valve clearance and fit the carb.

Then slap on the rad, a pipe here a plate there and hey-presto;

The enigine started but did not run for long, the petrol is at least 8 months old. Clutch, gearbox and transmision tomorrow.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Nic Jarman]

The engine runs fine now. If you have a look at the manifold there is a tapped hole, I thought it was blind but I was wrong. The transmission takes longer than the engine to put in. Every bit of it is awkward to fit and there is less skin on my hands/arms than yesterday. Dose not look too complex.

The rear suspension drop links have silent block bushes and these have had it.

The ID is 20mm, OD 37mm and the length 76mm. Does anyone know where I can get them?

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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Roger-hatchy]

Try these people

Worth a phone call

http://www.antivibrationmethods.co.uk/html/torsion_bush.html#Top

[Nic Jarman]

Thanks Roger but unfortunately they do not do that size, but A Archers of Dunmow have then in stock for £20 each I will be there wednesday morning. Viva Talbot.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush