Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Jim.Walker]

[HMK]

Yes, I was just going to say that I was sure that Austin sevens had oil pumps. I'm not a "seven" expert, but the last time I travelled in one was about 2 years ago & about 50 miles & it definitely had an oil pressure gauge. I seem to think the reading was quite low - something like no more than 10 psi, could have been even less at times, but didn't seem to bother it.

As for semi or synthetic oil in 'older' engines - it is VERY good for the metal bits of the engine, but it is NOT good for the seals. I made the mistake of using a semi synthetic oil in an older engine & a once dry engine started weeping from every seal. I got rid of the semi syn & filled with proper mineral oil & within a few weeks, all the leaks from seals had stopped & the engine was nice & dry again.

[peter scott]

I don't think synth actually damages seals. It just escapes more readily. It's good at getting everywhere.

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Nic Jarman]

Cork and rope seals have no hope of keeping 10/40 semi where it should be so for some pre-war cars I am afraid its treakle (straight 50 or 40). Some seals can be replaced with modern ones or treat them as total loss oil systems.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[Salopian]

I've used Valvoline 10w50 fully synthetic (acquired some old stock at a very good price) in my 1928 Sunbeam 20.9hp with complete success. No leaks smooth running and best of all much reduced difference between hot/cold pressure.
It never uses much oil anyway and did not with the synthetic.
One consideration with such as the Sunbeam and my Alvis 12/50 are the oil pump bevel drive gears - such as a straight 50 grade oil will give silly high oil pressure cold and these gears can fail.
An oil thread can go on for ever and we all have our favourites but I use modern multigrades and have done for years without problem.
Anyway to get on topic sounds like blocked rad to me but hope its something simple!
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Jonathan Butler
Alvis SD 12/50 1928 MG TD 1950

[Nic Jarman]

Just for interest. Multigrades are made of base oil then a long chain polymer is added, eg Paratone viscosity index improver. ( I asked someone else, I'm not that smart).
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[traction39]

What ratio of anti-freeze to water are you using? Too much anti-freeze will lower the boiling point...maybe with higher engine loads the radiator cannot cope?
Just a thought..it was a cold winter!

[Nic Jarman]

I use 50/50 anti freeze/ deionised water, seems to work fine and I replace it every 2 years. I was also doing some prep work on the B and found the thermostat housing casting quite corroded inside and the outlet was resticted to about 50%, I thought " um, this could make it overheat". And I thought of you.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush

[buzzy bee]

Hi

50:50 seemed to protect to -55 acording to my hydrometer, any more and it starts to go down again (or up if you like!)

Cheers

Dave

[traction39]

-55 degrees! Guess Suffolk gets pretty cold in winter!!!

[victor 101]

Like Nic I use a 50/50 with deionised water, not so much for the low temp but as engine protection.

[WLC4EVA]

.

Mike (MV Peters) asked "Does anyone have any hands-on experience of synthetic oils in vintage motors? "

Yes Mike.
What do you wish to know?

Kind Regards, WLC

[buzzy bee]

I wouldn't even try! hehe

[WLC4EVA]

.
Why wouldn't you even try it Buzzy?

Kind Regards, WLC

[Nic Jarman]

Buzzy just loves replacing bearings.
Buzzy, you are using a computer.
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1936 Morris 8 Series 1
1973 MGB roadster
1977 MG Midget 1500
Dax Rush