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Austin Seven Ruby ARQ rejuvenation
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6176
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OuBallie wrote:
Perfect Peter, thanks.
Oh I do so like that blue, but sunglasses needed an you intimated at.
Do you perchance have an address for the shiny leather please?



Sorry, I did ask my friend for the source but he can't find the documentation!

Peter
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1939 SS Jaguar 2½ litre saloon
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for asking Peter.

Update at last, but where the heck has the time gone [Confused]
The humidity has not been kind to me, so very little done on the car, except for strengthening the front end of the engine compartment, and finding rust in the NS A-post, just above where the bottom door hinge is bolted, so work needed there now.

If I get any terminology or descriptions of parts wrong, please correct me, as I know those with 'Ours' differ from the norm.

Engine bay reinforcement.
First thoughts about welding the tubes to he body:
Photo 36


Final decision is to use the existing Mud Wing bolt holes:
Photo37


NS A-post rust.
I just pushed the screwdriver through the metal it was so thin:
Photo 38


The heap of rust that I scraped out:
Photo 39

Both A-post interiors will need a good anti-rust seal applied.

Geoff - Carport is 30°+ and humid making it a No Go Area right now.
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen many, but normally only from a distance and only partial ones.

Happened to me yesterday evening when I looked out the window at a passing rain shower and saw something that had be sprinting outside, well as sprinting as I can.

I grabbed the nearest camera to hand, iPhone 5, not wanting to miss what I had seen.

The 'object' in question made me stare in wonder when I looked up and to the East, when I got outside.

I just couldn't believe what I was seeing, and could only gape in wonder.

Photo does not do nature justice, and I wasn't going to take a chance on getting my SLR, and then finding the marvel had gone.

A few photos taken, this being the best using iPhone in Pano (Panoramic) mode.
Just had to post it.



To describe it an astonishing sight, is the ultimate understatement.

Geoff - It made my year let alone day, and something I will never forget!
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
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Penman



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4127
Location: Lancashire

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
It's even better when you get the secondary reversed bow as well isn't it.
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update at last.
Need advise on whether my solution on lifting the rear section of the body clear of the chassis and then resting it on the CarTrolleys is adequate please.

Photo40:


The L-iron is 1" and on the inside there is a length of 3/4" square tube bolted to it through the body.

Doing a trial lift yesterday, actually lowering the axle end of the chassis with the body supported as in photo, there where a couple of faint creaks but nothing went bang or buckled as the chassis came clear.

I did check the door gaps, but they wher fine, but had an ' Oh f...k it!' moment, got the lot secured and called it a day, to sort something out. Hopefully now done.

Will need to move the car back some in order to use the block & tackle to lift the front end clear, to be able to place a cross bar resting on the other CarTrolley, to lower the body onto.

Geoff - Only now recovered from Monday's 0155h on off taxi duty delayed to 0700h due to Stansted luggage being 90min late!
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering


Last edited by OuBallie on Sun Sep 13, 2015 9:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2015 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom 'The Blacksmith' Boyd popped in on his way home from work on Tuesday evening, to give the Ruby and yours truly the once over.
When you meet someone for the first time, you know within seconds whether you like them or not, with Tom falling into the first category.
His eyes lit up when he saw the Ruby and was soon inspecting it, remarking that other than the bodges I had shown on the Forum, the bodywork was in fine fettle, expecting something much worse, so my posts may have given the wrong impression.
He shook his head at the inner wheel arch 'repairs' and just gaped at what had been done to the NS door bottom hinge attachment area.
The rear end reinforcement to help lift the body was passed as safe and strong enough.
Jacking the rear up, the short filler pipe with cap caught on the body and fell off, bracket with it, said bracket not bolted in place!
We then progressed to the front end, discussing the merits of single and double shocks, consensus being that double was better, something I had already decided on fitting.
I then mentioned that I intended to lower the Radius Arm Ball Flange and adding a Wedge between Chassis and springs in order to increase caster angle, something Tom said he hadn't been aware of.
He then had a closer look at the front axle, and this is where I failed muster miserably!
"It's a later axle with stronger Radius Arms, and much sort after"
"What!" Said I, he then pointing out the extra top bolts on the Radius Arm Ends through the Axle.
Wide eyed I just gaped like an idiot asking "How the h*ll could I have not noticed!?"
I could not believe it as I found out very early on that the Mk.2 axle was superior, and intended fitting one.

Reminds me of computer programming when you can stare for days straight at an error in the coding and neither see nor recognise the mistake, hence software causing computers to crash.
One reason the Ruby will have an MOT when finished, as a fresh pair of eyes will see things I don't, even though I consider myself competent, having built and raced my own car.

On asking if the 'cills' where strong enough to support the front of the body, Tom suggested that the cross tube support be placed across the body under the A-posts.
We then adjourned inside for coffee and a very pleasant chat.
Sorry about the coffee Tom, not my usual standard. Will be better next time.
He then kindly offered assistance whenever needed - Thanks Tom, much appreciated.

Nothing done yesterday, being one of my bad days.
Cannot believe the progress I've made today, full details with photos soon.
So good in fact that at one point when 'Fox on the Run' by Sweet started playing, I just could not resist and started jiving!

Geoff - On cloud nine
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BODY OFF!

Ruby Body that is.
Thursday 10th September 2015
Doors off to lighten the body.
Had to machine a punch to knock the hinge pins out.
Used some nylon rope as a sling over the body to stabilise the doors as the pins came out, spraying penetrating oil onto them first.
NS bottom one really was tight and needed the use of a club hammer. It was oversize, so no doubt the original had worn
Top was standard 1/4" but only slightly easier to punch out.
The rope helped and door was soon on the floor
OS was much easier as pins where standard 1/4"Ø
Doors soon out the way, ready to put into the Ruby's interior once it's outside.

Photo41.
First door off:


Photo42.
Special punch:


Had a look at the bottom of the A-post where Tom said I should put the CarTrolley cross shaft, and saw that the brake pivot shaft adjustment was in the way, but will disconnect the rear brake cable and it may be able to swing it out the way.
If not then soon fixed by welding a bit of sq tube onto the CarTrolley cross shaft.
No need as the shaft is attached to the Chassis stupid!

Time to lower the Chassis so pumped tyres up and jacked the rear up, CarTrolley into position and lowered the body with the L-iron bracing onto the CTUprights and nothing seemed to break so jacked the rear axle up a little and placed axle stands under it then lowered the axle onto the stands.

Off came the TrolleyJackExtension (TJE) and a piece of wood, with hollowed out centre for the Diff plug to clear, placed on the Jack & up went the rear axle and out came the stands, and Chassis lowered until the tyres where on the floor, a few squeaks as the filler pipe scraped the body and petrol tank complained.

Then TJE back in place to get the back as high as possible to see if I can get the body clear of the rear wheels, but still not high enough, so will have to jiggle the Chassis for the wheels to clear.

Photo43.
Rear done.


Front end now.
Used the block & tackle to lift the front of chassis and body up so that I could pull the CT out, then slowly down till the tyres where on the floor, then hooked onto the engine bay bracing I added earlier and slowly lifted & as I did so the body started moving backwards without any complaints, so continued lifting until nearly level.
Now time to see if I have room to wheel the Chassis clear of the Body but as expected found that I needed to move the MobileToolTrolley (MTT) into the Workshop to make space.

Photo44.
Front end up:


Started pulling the Chassis clear and the rear tyres caught on the wheel arches.
Tried to heave the Chassis sideways but tyre grip too high, and I'm no longer as macho as I was, or think I was, so just pushed the rear of the body sideways and that allowed the NS wheel to clear with the OS wheel under the body.
Soon had the Chassis as far forward as possible, the Welding Table in the way.
Soon pushed the body backwards as far as possible and lowered the front and it cleared the petrol tank, but still hooked to the Block & Tackle.

Photo45.
Chassis clear of Body:


Had a good look at the bottom of the A-posts and there was of course no obstruction now of course.
Cut a length of 34" sq tube and realised that I could use clamps to hold the tube to the Cill using two small G-clamps.
Tube in place and front end lowered and just need to lower the rear as far as possible.
Finish tomorrow and see if the old Carport 'Door' tarp will cover the body & if not order a new one.
As I got the body clear of the Chassis, 'Fox on the Run' by Sweet started playing and I just could not resist doing what I did way back then - boogieing/jiving
Later that night had a thought so out to check and realised that I didn't need the cross tube as the channel sections at the top of the CTUprights would do the job by fitting round the Cills.

Friday 11th September 2015

Removed the cross bar and did what I thought about last night, moving the CTUs outboard and casters inboard.
The Upright channel sections fitted perfectly. Placed pieces of flat steel over their hold down bolts so as not to create a stress area.

Pulled the car as far forward as possible but not enough space at the rear to use the TrolleyJack with Extension.
Swivelled the front of the car towards the East and it nearly tipped over!
Ffs what's happened!?
Went to the rear and found the OS CTUpright was clear of the L-iron!
No doubt the driveway was the problem, it having slopes aimed at the centre drain hole.
Swung the rear towards the Side Door, being very very careful.
Opened the door to allow the TJ handle space then jacked the rear up as previously and dropped the CTUs to their lowest position and lowered the car but had to raise the OS CTU one notch before the L-iron rested on it, but will keep checking when the car is pushed outside onto the flat paving.
Got an old clear tarp out and draped it over the Ruby, but as I thought it was too small and torn in places, so ordered a bigger one off of eBay for delivery on Tuesday.

Photo46.
Body ready to roll out of the Carport:


A quick look at the Chassis and it appears totally unmolested with only a few spots of rust and they are under the felt strips, so these either need replacing with non-absorbent equivalent or impregnate with lard.
I haven't as yet set up for video recording, but WILL have by the time I start on the Chassis.
Hope above 'Words and Music' are clear, but will gladly answer any queries.

Now champing at the bit to start on the Chassis, but whilst waiting for the tarp will use the time to catch up on some of the sideline projects I've ignored.

Geoff - Couldn't believe how well it went!
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replies two two comments I received in the 'Austin Seven Friends' Forum.

Thanks Tom.
It went far far better and easier than I was expecting, no doubt due to the months spent thinking it through.
Moral has to be 'Think a lot, do once'. [Saint]

Bill,
You've convinced me to bin the felt, thanks.
Was undecided, felt or rubber, but rubber it will be.

Thinking ahead now on getting the body back onto the Chassis, I will make up a threaded spike to screw into one of the rear Chassis holes and use it to swivel the body around, which should make it easier to get the other holes ligned up, then unscrew it.
Not sure about that exercise being done single handed though, but watch this space [Very Happy]
Captive nuts where needed are a must, after what I went through.

Got a surprise mid-day yesterday, Tarp delivered!
Time to roll the body out so phoned family member and he was soon over, and we gently pushed the body out.
Another surprise at how easy and smooth it went - I could have done it by myself, but didn't fancy taking that chance.
Locked the casters down and unfurled the tarp, but somehow I got measurements all cocked-up as it was way way too large [Sighing]
I did measure three [Censored] times as well [Duh2]
Tucked as much of it out of the way as I could, yes it was that large, and bound it up tight using nylon string.

Photo47.
Chassis in its Birthday Suite:


Looks good.

Geoff - Making tweezers for the RSU today.
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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D4B



Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 2091
Location: Hampshire UK

PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done Geoff,

that's quite some achievement all on your own Cool

Best Wishes
Steve
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colwyn500



Joined: 21 Oct 2012
Posts: 1741
Location: Nairn, Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work....noew the fun begins Very Happy
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the compliments.

Herewith photos of the Torque Tube before I gave it a clean.
There is absolutely no adjustment left, but worst of all, the Adjusting Nut bolts are AWOL, indicating that that nut is tight up against the socket.



All adjustment taken up:




How easy is it to get a gun to that nipple?

I'm now at a total loss as to what to do next with this assembly

Geoff - Heeelp!
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6176
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Geoff,

Aside from the torque tube. It may be as original but I would not recommend using underfelt between the chassis and body. Choose some rubber that doesn't absorb water.

Peter
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Farmer John



Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 170
Location: Manawatu NZ

PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 3:48 am    Post subject: Austin Ruby Reply with quote

Hello Geoff. I have been following your Austin resto thread and become concerned about your plan. I will explain, and if your plan does parallel mine then all is well.
Do what everyone does first, crawl all over, under, and around. Some straightedges, strings, rulers and a tape measure will provide enough information about the chassis to know whether you need to be suspicious of it. That is easy for you now having the body off, try to get proper specs ( is that a possibility), do not assume that bends or curves are original.
Whoa, backup, nearly forgot, no prodding or poking or testing the integrity of any part, you just might destroy the last of it's strength and lose the shape.
Now get the chassis sitting straight. Get the measuring sticks out again, it needs to be perfect. Often people find that the chassis can be squared up while still on it's wheels and this is a huge advantage during bodywork. Keep the tyres tight and have some height references to recheck when you need to.
Now then Geoff, the absolute key, the kingpin about which the quality of your resto revolves, is to get the body straight. It needs to be on the chassis of course. Use steel spacers, wooden strips , wedges whatever is handy to replicate the material that will eventually be on the chassis under the body. Do this very carefully, it is so easy to forget a bracket or body part and get the wrong height whilst setting up.
Set the doors. Unlikely that hinge adjustment will work so use wooden wedges try to get the door so that the gap is even right around. The best it will go for now. You have two doors? I forget. Do both doors the best possible. If the wind screen opens check around that, it can go out of square, just check it with the glass.
All those little things we look at to see how good a vehicle is, the door gaps, bonnet fit, and all the funny angles and curves that all contribute to a body looking square, those are the things you will be using to get your Austin looking perfect. Refit the radiator surround and fit the bonnet to get that right.
Now if you can get your doors and bonnet right at this stage it will be a miracle, not because your body is any worse than any other but that is how bodies go. The mind picture you get from all this will enable you to solve any problems, maybe an extra shim under the scuttle will help both doors- that sort of thing. You might look at a dodgy repair panel that is causing a distortion, releasing that might cure something.
The same principle of getting the body right as you go applies to panel repairs. Single skin is straightforward, but wherever there is more than one the replacement patch is fabricated and marked or screwed {roofing screws are ok) so that it can be removed for work and screwed back on to guide the alignment of the inner panel.
A repair might be three or four panels deep so by the time you get to the last one the outer panels are all made and fit properly. There is a Vauxhall man aka "Droopsnoot" who has work shown onlne and who is a master of panel repairs. Might even be on this site? Anyway it is worth looking at how he goes about it.
It matters not who does the work on your car it is better for you to know the right way to do things, and why they are done that way. With a bit of understanding you can get that car just as straight as you want.

John
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OuBallie



Joined: 02 Mar 2013
Posts: 225
Location: South Norfolk next to Suffolk

PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks John for the most concise explanation on how to check body.
I did most of that before anything else, and apart from the botched repairs to the NS door lower hinge area and inner wheel arches, all was correct.
The strengthening frame I added to the engine compartment 'wings' where to prevent anything nasty happening when I lifted the front end.
Will need to really study how to get the body to bot to my rotisserie though, but only after repairing those wheel arches and NS B-post.

I shall definately be doing as suggested when the body goes back on.

Been cleaning the chassis and it looks in remarkable condition, only needing the paint stripping and something better applied.

A pity about those botches, otherwise this car would be back on the road this year.

Geoff - Still hope to do so though Smile
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Too many hobbies, not enough time!
1935 Austin Seven Ruby ARQ
1957 Austin A35 2-door
1967 Morris Minor 2-door
2007 Fiat Doblò MultiJet (It carries the spares etc)
Model Engineering
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Rick
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Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just been catching up on your updates - I'm enjoying the read Smile

RJ
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