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Morris 8 clutch pedal problems
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zagatoman



Joined: 31 Aug 2010
Posts: 55
Location: Sutton, Surrey

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:41 pm    Post subject: Morris 8 clutch pedal problems Reply with quote

Hi all,

Just got my new 1936 Morris 8 series 1 and wondered if anyone could answer a question.

The clutch seems to work OK but the bite is right at the top of the pedal travel, what can I do about this. Do I have a worn clutch or can I adjust so the bite is lower down on the clutch pedal movement.

Hope someone can help.

Paul
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Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.


Last edited by zagatoman on Sat Sep 05, 2015 1:02 am; edited 1 time in total
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goneps



Joined: 18 Jun 2013
Posts: 601
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Possibly the clutch is worn, but more likely it simply needs adjustment. To access this you'll have to remove the floorboard. Apologies for the out-of-focus shot, but the salient features are visible.



The pedal arm is not fixed on the shaft but works via a stud through a slotted quadrant (adjacent to the spring). The inner face of the quadrant is serrated, as is the washer under the nut. Simply slacken the nut and move the pedal arm relative to the quadrant before retightnening. The washer's serrations are offset, so by turning it through 180° a half-serration adjustment can be made.

Correctly adjusted, there should be not less than 1/2" free travel at the pedal pad before resistance is felt. If this is already the case then it looks as though the clutch needs relining or replacing. It's a standard Borg and Beck 6 1/4" clutch as fitted on many British cars, including the post-war Minor, so readily available.

By the way, 'bight' is not right—you mean the other kind of bite.

Richard
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bjacko



Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 516
Location: Melbourne Australia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 7:12 am    Post subject: Morris 8 clutch Reply with quote

As well as the above the pedal clearance should also be checked between the clutch pedal arm and it's stop bracket, so that with the pedal pressed until the carbon thrust just contacts the withdrawal plate the gap measures 1 1/8" to 1 1/4". This means the clutch should be fully engaged in drive with the correct gap of 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" .
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zagatoman



Joined: 31 Aug 2010
Posts: 55
Location: Sutton, Surrey

PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice, very helpful. I will try and sort this out when I get the time.

Paul
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