Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Kleftiwallah
Joined: 27 Oct 2016 Posts: 222 Location: North Wiltshire
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Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 5:49 pm Post subject: Oil temperature sensor position. |
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I'm restoring a BSAFWD TW31, now to the (seemingly) silly question. To protect the engine I'm installing an oil temp sensor and gauge. Could someone knowledgeable confirm that the sensor should be immersed in oil at normal working level?
Cheers, Tony. |
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Minxy
Joined: 22 Sep 2010 Posts: 272 Location: West Northants
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Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Depends what you mean by ' working level'?
When the engine is running the galleries and respective feeds are under pressure and contain oil with little or no air. When it gets to the top end it drips down into the sump to be picked up and pumped around again. You could put a sensor in the sump so it is in contact with the oil there but the temperature there is likely to be less than in the main engine.
The simplest way is to remove the oil pressure switch, fit a 'Y' piece and put the pressure switch in one and temp sender in the other. _________________ Hillman minx convertible. Lanchester LD 10 |
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alanb
Joined: 10 Sep 2012 Posts: 516 Location: Berkshire.
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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Please excuse my ignorance but why do you need to know the temperature of your oil? Surely a water temperature gauge is of more value as the boiling point of oil is approximately 3 x that of water. _________________ old tourer
Morris 8 two seater |
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Kleftiwallah
Joined: 27 Oct 2016 Posts: 222 Location: North Wiltshire
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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I feel more info is needed. The engine is an air-cooled 1012cc V twin Hotchkiss. Alanb - no liquid coolant.
Thanks for all those informative replies. I'll use a hole drilled in the engine casting by a previous owner to fit an external oil pump to install the oil temp sensor. I've re-installed the original oil pump.
Cheers, Tony. |
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alanb
Joined: 10 Sep 2012 Posts: 516 Location: Berkshire.
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Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry for my ignorance I've only seen 4 cyl water cooled BSA's _________________ old tourer
Morris 8 two seater |
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ka
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:37 am Post subject: |
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Quite intrigued with this thread.
Should you go ahead and fit an oil temperature gauge, at what temperature is the oil too hot, and what can you do about it? the logical conclusion is to fit an oil cooler, but the original question is still paramount.
At what temperature would you expect oil to operate in a water cooled engine, no matter an air cooled. Does the age of the oil have an effect on optimum temperature?
I am all for having gauges to get some indication what is happening under the bonnet, water temperature can be addressed by stopping, topping up etc, oil pressure gives a warning of an early mechanical failure, oil temperature??? _________________ KA
Better three than four. |
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colwyn500
Joined: 21 Oct 2012 Posts: 1745 Location: Nairn, Scotland
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Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:06 am Post subject: |
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ka wrote: |
I am all for having gauges to get some indication what is happening under the bonnet, water temperature can be addressed by stopping, topping up etc, oil pressure gives a warning of an early mechanical failure, oil temperature??? |
We get this sort of conundrum all the time with the air-cooled Fiats.
Those above are some very pertinent questions. The oil plays a particularly important part in cooling an air-cooled car as it's ability to take heat away from obscure internal areas of the engine is usually evidenced by fins or air ducts in the sump.
So you can probably expect the oil temperature in an air-cooled to be hotter than in a water-cooled in any case....but how much hotter is a healthy temperature? I am currently using a 10W60 high performance/competition oil in my little engine which is very far from deserving those descriptions. My temerature gauge is the oil warning light which no longer flickers when idling.
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ka
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
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Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2017 8:46 am Post subject: |
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I have a modern BMW bike, with oil engine cooling, using a separate pump and oil cooler, known as the 'oil head'. It has the bar graduated temperature gauge, but to bring it back to the link, it has an oil thermostat that works as a water one does.
Some years ago we went to the Morgan Lakedistrict camping weekend, towing a small trailer with the gear in it. Returning down the M6/M1 (time constraints) I adjusted the cruising speed by watching the water temp gauge and the oil pressure gauge, when the pressure dropped I slowed down to allow the water temp to fall, therefore the oil pressure to climb.
I am not a huge fan of synthetics in classic vehicles, but that being said, BMW recommend everything from Mineral to Full synthetic in the beemer, and accepting that engineering tolerances and running temperatures are far wider in an air cooled engine, starting with oil the consistency of water will give the advantage of protection from start-up.
When starting the engine in the Mog, I always spin it over until I have oil pressure, before turning on the ignition. _________________ KA
Better three than four. |
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