Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016 Posts: 429 Location: North west Kent
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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alastairq wrote: | A problem I have suffered concerns the distributor.
If there is a bit of crankcase pressure [when hot] I have suffered having oil mist being blown up past the distributor shaft, leading to oil droplets forming on the points.
This can be seen when examining the distributor cap after the misbehavior....cleaning the cap is temporary, as it soon mists up again.
Crankcase pressure always occurs to a greater or lesser degree....and with the 10hp, it finds it difficult to dissipate that pressure...despite having a large-ish oil filler orifice.
My cure has been to switch to one of the Hall-effect conversions which replaces the actual points. I don't have much faith in magic boxes, however. | i checked the points gap, cleaned the rotor arm and checked inside the distributor cap, all good. _________________ 1957 ford popular |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1954 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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Very often, all that would be needed would be to pass a clean bit of cloth between the CB contacts....
Does the fuel pump have a spacer between it and the block? |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016 Posts: 429 Location: North west Kent
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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alastairq wrote: | Very often, all that would be needed would be to pass a clean bit of cloth between the CB contacts....
Does the fuel pump have a spacer between it and the block? | i would need to have a look. If so would that make it pump less fuel? It's been running ok until now. _________________ 1957 ford popular |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:57 pm Post subject: |
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Stick it on a scope; takes all the guesswork out with these sort of faults.
Dave |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016 Posts: 429 Location: North west Kent
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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had another look at the pop today, pulled the pipe off the fuel filter inlet and drained some fuel into a container, looks clean. Removed the plugs, cleaned and gapped them then checked for sparks on all caps, all ok. Removed the float bowl from the zenith and cleaned it. Removed all the jets and cleaned. Removed the filler cap. Started the engine and it ran quite smoothly after warm up.
Removed the filler caps locking mechanism, seal and brass ring under the seal. Cleaned all the cobwebs and crap from under the cap. Cannot see any breather hole.
_________________ 1957 ford popular |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016 Posts: 429 Location: North west Kent
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Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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Alastair, there is no spacer behind the mechanical fuel pump. _________________ 1957 ford popular |
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ka
Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 600 Location: Orkney.
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:15 am Post subject: |
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I had a similar issue on the A55 on the way back from Ireland. Turned out it was the coil at fault. New coil cured it. _________________ KA
Better three than four. |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016 Posts: 429 Location: North west Kent
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Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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Just ordered a 12v coil, the last piece of the 12v conversion puzzle and electronic ignition I will fit after the 12v conversion and I know the car still starts. No point looking for a problem that could be one thing or another. _________________ 1957 ford popular |
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GARAGE HERMIT
Joined: 20 Mar 2017 Posts: 186 Location: stockton upon tees, cleveland,
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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all this talk of "vaporisation" what about all the car's that were exported to africa/india etc, a bit warmer than over here, _________________ 1957 - 103e - popular, |
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petelang
Joined: 21 May 2009 Posts: 444 Location: Nottingham
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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Today's ethanol fuels suffer from this problem much more than old fashioned petrol.
Peter |
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Kenham
Joined: 12 Mar 2012 Posts: 209 Location: Kent
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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I thought for a long time my E83W suffered from the fuel vapourising, eventually found out it was the new ignition components. A lot are made in china and really are rubbish, start the car at night and look under the bonnet, mine looked like nov 5th with all the sparks jumping everywhere. |
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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Move lame duck ! Plugs out, first or reverse, crank it up on the starter motor
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Last edited by Peter_L on Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:27 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Paul fairall
Joined: 17 Nov 2016 Posts: 429 Location: North west Kent
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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peterwpg wrote: | Move lame duck ! Plugs out, first or reverse, crank it up on the starter. | if you are advising me about moving the car you obviously didn't read my post where I stated just that, I put it in reverse and hand cranked it into the garage. _________________ 1957 ford popular |
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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Paul fairall wrote: | peterwpg wrote: | Move lame duck ! Plugs out, first or reverse, crank it up on the starter. | if you are advising me about moving the car you obviously didn't read my post where I stated just that, I put it in reverse and hand cranked it into the garage. |
I wasn't advising you, and obviously I am too stupid to understand your posting. !!@!! |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1954 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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Is your rotor arm a 'new' one? It is often these which break down in usage.....something about the Chinese factories using [too much?] carbon in the plastic mix? This has been ongoing for over 20 years now....
If going down the route of modernising the basic ignition system [I recommend getting rid of the points, & using a Hall sensor kit]....I recommend contacting
http://www.distributordoctor.com/
They [he?] makes his own rotor arms to overcome the problems mentioned above.
Also, he can supply a kit, including new baseplate, for a hall sensor to replace the points. [for the 8/10 HP Ford, and 100E]
Why replace the points? Well, if one puts a timing strobe on the marks when the engine is running, and rev it up...one can see the full advance bobbing around all over the place.
This is due to the vagaries of a bit of spring steel, and wear & tear on the dizzy cam lobes, etc.
A hall sensor eliminates all that,yet retains the coil. On my Dellow [which is running 100E engine, on E93A transmission]....starting is incredibly reliable, and the timing marks are very steady under a strobe.
Another plus is eliminating the problems of the points contacts fouling...especially on a Ford sidevalve.
[I understand Paul may already have electronic ignition,but I post the above for anybody else who is playing with [Ford?] sidevalve engines, especially for the first time.]
As Kenham says above, for a decade or so now, the easily-available ignition components on the old-car market may look nice & shiny, may even be better made than original, but there are many hidden failings at manufacture. NOS may not be so old, or may have deteriorated due to time & poor storage? |
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