Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[David R47]

Hi

I was, or so I thought, on the closing stages (like painting) of my long term restoration of the first car I ever owned, a 1935 Standard 9. I ran the engine, as you do every now and then and went on a holiday for a week. When I came back I ran it again and saw that the oil pressure was acting 'funny'. I looked at the oil and oh dear, light chocolate! No problem, Head off, sump off clean every thing. All going well until I lapped in the valves. Oh Dear Oh Dear number 5 seat had a 1.5 mm chip in it.

So I guess block has to come out of car and wallet has to come out of pocket. Anyone have any experience of this sort of problem?

Regards

David

[peter scott]

Hi David,

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear of your bad luck on the valve seat. I've had quite a few occasions when the block had to be removed but I've never owned a side valve car so not for the reason of seat replacement.

Regards,

Peter
_________________
https://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Ashley]

It's no problem to have a valve seat fitted, but you need to remove the engine and strip out the block. Valve seats don't usually chip, although valves do burn away, so I'd inspect the area very carefully to make sure there's not a crack. If there is, it'll need stitching. Search YouTube for videos showing seats being fitted and stitching.

Whatever you do, do clean out the oil ways and every part of the engine with meticulous care because any dirt at all will quickly destroy it.

Best of luck

[David R47]

Thank you for your replies. There is no crack on the valve seat but there are a couple elsewhere on the block, one near to a valve seat so I will probably have all four done! I think that the worst part will be removing the studs.

I seem to remember in 1968 having it rebored and refitting the engine with the car in an unheated garage with no electricity (Tilley lamps from the Scouts and a parrafin heater). The snow was falling outside as I lay on my back assembling the big-end shells. Happy Days.

David

[ukdave2002]

Make sure you take the block to a firm used to dealing with old engines; if the casting quality anything like the Morris side valve engines, the stress of putting valve seats in with normal interference fit can cause more cracks.

Its may be better to have them fitted with a less stressful fit and "glued" in with Loctite Sleeve Retainer 640 or equivalent.

Dave

[Ray White]

I have just experienced this problem with the engine of my 1926 Dodge Brothers tourer. In my case the valve seat had a crack across it. There are sometimes problems with fitting new seats, not least the risk that the seat can work loose. Also, as has been stated, stress cracks can open up. I listened to the advise of an engineer who specialises in the old stuff and took the block to be "stitched". The firm I used is in Burton upon Trent; the job was well done and the guy formed a new valve seat in the metal stitching.

[David R47]

Thank You for your replies. I am now starting the interesting process of removing the head and manifold studs. 6 down and 11 to go. So far gentle tapping witha ball pien hammer, the application of heat and a number of different penetrating oils have given me slight success. The thought did occur that the hammer action on an electric drill might produce results, but of the wrong kind!

Was going to send a picture but Photobucket charge now!

David

[mikeC]

[David R47]

That was a bit too easy! Thank you mikeC

[Ray White]

Having seen the photo, if it was mine I would try Belzona (1511 super HT Metal) two part metal repair. Not the cheapest option considering you only need a tiny quantity but it would save time and trouble.

http://www.belzona.co.uk/en/products/purpose/metal-repair.aspx

[PAUL BEAUMONT]

Not convinced that it would stand the temperatures involved, Ray. Personally I would take it to an old school engine reconditioner and see if the seat could be recut to remove the damage. Very curious failure!

[Ray White]