Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3631 Location: South Cheshire

Result

They were originally negative earth, oil pressure release should be 60lb so assuming the gauge is correct its looking good.

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 21622 Location: UK

bjacko · Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 6:49 am Post subject: Morris 8 video

The oil pressure is controlled by the relief valve in the oil pump. The length of the spring should be about one inch to give 60psi which is recommended maximum.

old iron · Joined: 22 Mar 2016 Posts: 116

An enjoyable vid’ not many pre war in such good unrestored condition, nice find. Smile

peter scott · Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 6472 Location: Edinburgh

You'll have it out on the road in no time!

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2½ litre saloon

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 21622 Location: UK

More progress on the Morris 8 over the last few days.

The next job was to establish a reliable supply of fuel from the tank. So I drained the latter, cleaned the filter, blew the front/back line through then set to work re-awakening the electric pump.

With that done it was time to try the gears and clutch, so out of the garage for a few cautious test drives. The basics appear to work ok, maybe the clutch could be adjusted as it bites a little lower than I think it should (is it adjustable?), but so far the signs are positive.

Junior also had a few brief goes behind the wheel to try it out for size.

There's a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust. This could be tired rings, worn valve guides, or it could be a combination of them plus old engine oil, gummed-up rings, and the remnants of the diesel I poured into each cylinder before getting it to run. We'll see! Does anyone know if rings can be replaced in-situ, or is it an engine-out job?

A video cataloguing these latest exploits, and junior's "driving lessons", is now on YT: https://youtu.be/TR9w0qrharI

RJ
_________________
Rick (OCC Admin)
Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.

kevin2306 · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2020 5:39 pm Post subject:

That car is a gem Rick

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 4086 Location: Derby

I believe you can do the job without taking the engine out but I think it is easier if you do. I would do the valves and timing chain at the same time. I always replace the big end bolts as a matter course and take care to remove the cylinder ridges.

You know all that stuff anyway so it's your call.

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 21622 Location: UK

goneps · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2020 10:05 pm Post subject:

Rick,

Referring to your video, the diff looks like a Morris 8 item, and (lucky you) it's the later cast steel housing rather than the early aluminium one that was very weak. You should be able to find the part no. 81969 on the casting.

The diff. ratio was changed at chassis no. 183066 from 8/43 to 7/37. For all practical purposes the gearing is the same.

Oh, and by the way, "they" don't say "The proof is in the pudding", or at least they shouldn't because it doesn't make sense. The saying is, "The proof of the pudding is in the eating".

Might as well offer advice on English proverbs as well as M8 detail!

Richard

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 21622 Location: UK

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 4086 Location: Derby

I think you have the right idea, Rick. I am sure this is one of those cars that is just crying out to be used. The more it gets driven, the better it will get.

Cross a bridge when you come to it.

(I replaced the rings on my GT6 with the engine in situ. It was all going so well until the strop from the rafters holding the engine snapped. It resulted in a bent prop shaft! You can imagine the expletives Embarassed

)

bjacko · Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 8:04 am Post subject: Morris 8

Certainly looks like a Morris 8 Ser I, II and E diff.
The fuel hose is not the correct type, it should be metal braided type.
To loosen up the rings the first thing to try is a dose of Redex in each cylinder overnight then should be Ok. Expect a lot of smoke. Don't put more than a teaspoonful in each cylinder or it may "hydraulic" and damage a conrod(s).

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 3631 Location: South Cheshire

I agree it looks like a later 8 diff, like this;

[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/o180/ukdave2002/diff4.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/IMG]

[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/o180/ukdave2002/diff3.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/IMG]

As Richard states the early diffs are a tad fragile:

[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/o180/ukdave2002/diff1.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/IMG]
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/o180/ukdave2002/diff.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/IMG]
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/o180/ukdave2002/diff2.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/IMG]

The early diffs had a fabric coupler, later a universal joint.

Dave

peter scott · Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 6472 Location: Edinburgh