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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6342 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 12:34 am Post subject: pull cable knob question |
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I need to fit cables to these knobs on my instrument panel. That is not really the problem. The question is how should I go about securing the cable/knob to the panel.
I only want some small discreet chrome bezels but I don't know where to find them. I will also need some means of securing the cable steadily to the panel and I am not having much luck there either.
Am I wasting my time trying to get all the bits together ?
Perhaps I need to hand the cables over to "speedy cables" or suchlike and have them sort it out.? |
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Penman
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4765 Location: Swindon, Wilts.
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 12:44 am Post subject: |
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Hi
Can we see pictures from side on without the panel?
I'm assuming they have a threaded outer.
A thin nut that fits the thread could have the hexagon turned off and then a slot cut across one face, this is fitted on the side of the panel we can see.
Many bezels look like that, then you just need another nut on the back of the panel. _________________ Bristols should always come in pairs.
Any 2 from:-
Straight 6
V8 V10 |
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:43 am Post subject: |
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If it were me (Capital I.. Capital F) I would leave this detail to the experts (Your Quote).... I doubt that anyone (PCE).. will even give it a second thought that this was nothing more than what they see........ With so many details in life, the trials, tribulations, sleepless nights, go unobserved... it is what you see, it is never the hard work and stress that went before... You are doing a great job Ray.. made harder by the current COVID... I read all your posts..... Stay Safe and Take Care...... Peter... |
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MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6342 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 10:03 am Post subject: |
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Thank you Guys.
I have probably been looking in the wrong place.
Some good ideas.
Cheers, Ray.
Last edited by Ray White on Sat Nov 21, 2020 11:15 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6342 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 11:13 am Post subject: |
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I think this is the sort of thing I have been looking for:
Trouble is it looks too "1960's /1970's Triumph" for me. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6342 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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Here are the original TC cables. They are ALL different.!
1) The choke pull cable.
2) The starter pull cable.
3) The slow running twist cable.
What I have established is that the small chrome bezel to the dash side is an integral part of the threaded cable outer which is D shaped to fit the hole in the dash panel. ( Obvious really. ) and the assembly is held with a spring washer and half nut.
1) The choke cable is the worst condition of the three. It is stuck open but I might eventually be able to free it off. It has a groove in the solid first section which all choke cables seem to have but I can't remember what it's purpose is. The bezel is reasonable.
2) The starter cable operates freely and but the bezel part showing is rusty. This outer has a piece of brass tubing which I suppose acts as a stiffener. The cable would need to be shortened to meet the bulkhead mounterd pull switch.
3) The slow running adjuster is the best condition of them all with no rust although is sans a spring washer. It is an interesting cable that moves in and out as you twist the knurled knob (as opposed to pulling it).
Unfortunately, the knobs are black and won't come off. I want to replace them with these:
.
I need to be very careful with the original knobs because although they don't necessarily fit in with my plans for the dashboard they are in reasonable shape and are like gold dust to anyone who is striving for originality. If only I could remove the knobs without damaging them!
The other option is to paint them but from past experience I don't think that a good outcome is very likely.
I could send the cables away to be restored/replaced but the originality will likely be lost.... |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1956 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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Re-choke cable? The groove may be something to do with the pull-twist-thus-locking system?
Old Fords' choke cable often were simple pull-on device, without a locking system [but, not all]....
Hence why the FSOC gave away patent choke cable locks...AKA nicely engraved clothes pegs..to hold choke cables out whilst driving...
Will it be possible to get some bezels and bolts turned up for yourself? _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6342 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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alastairq wrote: | Re-choke cable? The groove may be something to do with the pull-twist-thus-locking system?
Old Fords' choke cable often were simple pull-on device, without a locking system [but, not all]....
Hence why the FSOC gave away patent choke cable locks...AKA nicely engraved clothes pegs..to hold choke cables out whilst driving...
Will it be possible to get some bezels and bolts turned up for yourself? |
I think what I will do for the choke and throttle cables is remove the old inners and replace them with new (generic) ones. If I can remove the modern knobs I can insert the new inners into the original outers with my cream knobs on.
With regard to the bezels (which as I mentioned are an integral part of the outers) the choke one looks O.K. and I can clean up/chrome finish the tired throttle bezel.
The slow running cable is more involved but fortunately I can unscrew the knurled knob. I will be cutting a suitable thread into the new cream plastic knob and fit it instead.
As the bezel on the slow running adjuster is in good condition, that should be job done. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6342 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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I have decided that Peter L has the better plan. I have spoken to Speedy Cables in Wales and subsequently sent them the starter and choke cables and the new knobs. They will make a much better job of it than me.
I will modify the slow running cable myself as it just needs the knobs changing over. Nothing is ever straight forward though is it?.
Just to be awkward, the knurled knob thread on the cable is 5/16" x 26 t.p.i. which is BSC (cycle) so I have had to buy a set of taps to cut a thread in the plastic knob. I attempted to heat the cable and melt a thread into the knob but it was not a success. I will also need a 7.2mm drill which, with luck, I might have.
If not I will have to buy one of those as well! |
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Miken
Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544
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Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 11:50 pm Post subject: |
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Ray White wrote: |
Just to be awkward, the knurled knob thread on the cable is 5/16" x 26 t.p.i. which is BSC (cycle) so I have had to buy a set of taps to cut a thread in the plastic knob. |
Or BSB (brass) , i would have thought (as its not a bike).
55 degree thread angle instead of 60. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6342 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 1:18 am Post subject: |
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Miken wrote: | Ray White wrote: |
Just to be awkward, the knurled knob thread on the cable is 5/16" x 26 t.p.i. which is BSC (cycle) so I have had to buy a set of taps to cut a thread in the plastic knob. |
Or BSB (brass) , i would have thought (as its not a bike).
55 degree thread angle instead of 60. |
I do hope not as I have just ordered some BSCy taps!
I considered BSB but it's not brass.
Another thought that crossed my mind is that light weight cables were most frequently used on bicycles and motor bikes and considering MG construction owes much to bike manufacturing practices I was led down that road (so to speak).
I don't expect it will matter that much so long as I can tap a thread in the plastic good enough to screw onto the end of the cable. Perhaps if it is a tight fit then so much the better. |
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