Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[garyjpaterson]

They do, and I'll be giving them a ring on monday to order one. But silly me wanted to save money and get something even cheaper, but it didn't work out.

here's my original one



and then the "new" one after starting to drill out one of the bolts...

[garyjpaterson]

Ah, lower compression related to the new head gasket. Noticed as soon as I filled up with water, it was leaking up out around a stud, into the chamber and also out the left and right side externally.

Old gasket back in (upside down too, according to the book. I checked disassembly photos and put it in the way it was before, smooth side down). Compression good and quite even on all 4, so that's great. However it is still slightly weeping externally.

I think i'll pick up some of that copper gasket spray stuff, see if that does the trick. I wouldn't really want to rely on it for sealing around the combustion chamber, but I'm more happy to use it for just stopping water escape out the sides.

[bjacko]

Leaks at studs can be because the bottom end of the stud has broken into the water jacket.
I usually give my cylinder head gasket a light spray of Hylomar from an aerosol can before assembly. The aerosol version is much handier than the tube. This is what we used on RR Dart engines as they leak oil profusely. I believe it was invented by or for RR for this purpose on Dart engines.
(Dart engines were used on Vickers Viscounts, Fokker F27s, AW Argosy and other aircraft)
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1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

[alastairq]

On Ford sidevalve motors, the central stud/head bolt{?} has a lot of gasket area underneath to compress...more than the other head studs/bolts. Worth actually cutting hoes through the gasket either side of the central stud hole, to allow that particular stud to apply more pressure.

Diagrams in Bill Cooper's 100E tuning book, also can apply to 8/10 HP engines.

Was the block flat?

Was the head flat?

Also worth cutting a small chamfer/rebate/whateveritscalled around each stud hole in the block, as sometimes overzealous spannerwielders can 'lift' the metal surrounding each hole a bit. A quick whizz with an oversize drill can be enough.

For bush mechanicking, to flatten a block, use a long b'stard mill file evenly over the top....Often it's enough to even things out, without resorting to spending money.
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[garyjpaterson]

Maiden journey complete, made it back in one piece. 27 miles is not nothing for a car that has sat stationary for probably that many years!

Without any experience of anything similar, its hard to know what is normal and not.
30mph (from GPS, wanted to know actual speeds as the speedo is quite sticky) seems to be the speed, maybe 35. It'll obviously go quicker but it feels unnecessary and asking a lot. It is a lot smoother than prior to the valve job, but still a noisy place to be. Granted there are no carpets or interior trim to dampen anything at all!
Gets a little bit smoky up long steep hills, would it be pulling oil past the valve guides? Not sure, seems fine on level ground. Checked the oil and coolant at various points, levels seemed fine throughout. Water temp seemed ok too.
Checked compression when I got back, 90-100psi all round.
I adore the "handling". Yes the tyres are in need of replacement, and the roads weren't great today at less than a handful of degrees C, but its a joy to feel everything through the steering at sedate speeds on the tighter corners.

[Rick]

Looks just perfect!

RJ
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[Rootes75]

Well, I for one think she looks just right. I love the condition, I even quite like the colour!!
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Various Rootes Vehicles.