Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Roger-hatchy]

With reference to ultra sonic cleaners.

I strapped a random orbital sander to the bottom of a plastic bucket.

Bit noisy but it works for me.
AND it's cheap.

Might try some insulation around it to make it quieter.

[ukdave2002]

[RotaryBri]

I bought an ultrasonic cleaner to see if it would clean my spark plugs. In a rotary engine the plugs are special with an almost closed end. there is just a very small central hole with the electrode. They are made this way to keep the compression in the chamber. They are also expensive.

I bought a JPL 7000 from Amazon for £32. See: http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=JPL%207000%20Ultrasonic%20Cleaner%20with%20Digital%20Timer%20for%20Cds%2FDvds

It worked well but I had to use it 3 times on the 480 second to get the best results.
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Keep Torqueing,

RotaryBri

1976 NSU Ro80

[roverdriver]

Richard, It is many years since I have had much to do with Veteran cars, and these thoughts might be completely irrelevant, but then again they might help.

Firstly engines, even up to the 1950's were expected to burn oil, that is, a certain amount of oil found its way into the combustion chamber. The earlier the engine, the more likely that is to be the case.

The photo below is of spark plugs made especially for an engine that the design dates from 1908.



Notice how the bottom electrode goes to the side of the center one, and how that bottom electrode has a definite upward bend to its tip. The theory here is that any moisture- non atomised fuel, oil etc., if it lands on the plug will probably land on that electrode, and because of the bend, will gravitate downwards, away from the spark gap, therefore the moisture will not interfere with the ability of the plug to create a spark.

There were, of course, plugs for these particular cars, of almost any design imaginable, but the ones in the photograph have proved themselves over time, are considered the ideal plug for the engine and they have proven longevity, powering the engines for many decades without failure.

Just maybe, the Alldays might need a plug of similar design.

I hope that might help,
Dane.
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

[Glenn Crawford]

A pause of ten years and up pops this topic again, suspected premature plug fouling causing a failure to re-start with the engine hot. Usual suspects such as weak spark, fuel vaporisation all eliminated. The car is a Riley RM 1?-litre with mildly improved compression; though rebored and with new pistons some thousands ago it does ingest a bit of oil on the overrun which it blows out in a blue cloud at the bottom of a long hill. So its engine is good though not perfect. And the car is (was) utterly dependable!
I read the article which Green Spark Plugs republish, https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/fouling-shortingout-problem-modern-plugs-champion-vs-ngk/, suggesting that the insulators of modern plugs in old cars get coated with deposits from petrol, which conduct away the spark. It doesn't happen in newer cars, says the author, because their computers and metering systems prevent this happening. And it only happens now because plug manufacturers have given up glazing their ceramic electrodes, so the conductive deposits can now stick.
In the past ten years has any more come to light on this topic? I don't enjoy driving a formerly reliable car not knowing whether I am going to suffer an embarrassing breakdown.

[Glenn Crawford]

A pause of ten years and up pops this topic again, suspected premature plug fouling causing a failure to re-start with the engine hot. Usual suspects such as weak spark, fuel vaporisation all eliminated. The car is a Riley RM 1?-litre with mildly improved compression; though rebored and with new pistons some thousands ago it does ingest a bit of oil on the overrun which it blows out in a blue cloud at the bottom of a long hill. So its engine is good though not perfect. And the car is (was) utterly dependable!
I read the article which Green Spark Plugs republish, https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/fouling-shortingout-problem-modern-plugs-champion-vs-ngk/, suggesting that the insulators of modern plugs in old cars get coated with deposits from petrol, which conduct away the spark. It doesn't happen in newer cars, says the author, because their computers and metering systems prevent this happening. And it only happens now because plug manufacturers have given up glazing their ceramic electrodes, so the conductive deposits can now stick.
In the past ten years has any more come to light on this topic? I don't enjoy driving a formerly reliable car not knowing whether I am going to suffer an embarrassing breakdown.

[Glenn Crawford]

A pause of ten years and up pops this topic again, suspected premature plug fouling causing a failure to re-start with the engine hot. Usual suspects such as weak spark, fuel vaporisation all eliminated. The car is a Riley RM 1?-litre with mildly improved compression; though rebored and with new pistons some thousands ago it does ingest a bit of oil on the overrun which it blows out in a blue cloud at the bottom of a long hill. So its engine is good though not perfect. And the car is (was) utterly dependable!
I read the article which Green Spark Plugs republish, https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/fouling-shortingout-problem-modern-plugs-champion-vs-ngk/, suggesting that the insulators of modern plugs in old cars get coated with deposits from petrol, which conduct away the spark. It doesn't happen in newer cars, says the author, because their computers and metering systems prevent this happening. And it only happens now because plug manufacturers have given up glazing their ceramic electrodes, so the conductive deposits can now stick.
In the past ten years has any more come to light on this topic? I don't enjoy driving a formerly reliable car not knowing whether I am going to suffer an embarrassing breakdown.

[Glenn Crawford]

A pause of ten years and up pops this topic again, suspected premature plug fouling causing a failure to re-start with the engine hot. Usual suspects such as weak spark, fuel vaporisation all eliminated. The car is a Riley RM 1?-litre with mildly improved compression; though rebored and with new pistons some thousands ago it does ingest a bit of oil on the overrun which it blows out in a blue cloud at the bottom of a long hill. So its engine is good though not perfect. And the car is (was) utterly dependable!
I read the article which Green Spark Plugs republish, https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/fouling-shortingout-problem-modern-plugs-champion-vs-ngk/, suggesting that the insulators of modern plugs in old cars get coated with deposits from petrol, which conduct away the spark. It doesn't happen in newer cars, says the author, because their computers and metering systems prevent this happening. And it only happens now because plug manufacturers have given up glazing their ceramic electrodes, so the conductive deposits can now stick.
In the past ten years has any more come to light on this topic? I don't enjoy driving a formerly reliable car not knowing whether I am going to suffer an embarrassing breakdown.

[Glenn Crawford]

A pause of ten years and up pops this topic again, suspected premature plug fouling causing a failure to re-start with the engine hot. Usual suspects such as weak spark, fuel vaporisation all eliminated. The car is a Riley RM 1?-litre with mildly improved compression; though rebored and with new pistons some thousands ago it does ingest a bit of oil on the overrun which it blows out in a blue cloud at the bottom of a long hill. So its engine is good though not perfect. And the car is (was) utterly dependable!
I read the article which Green Spark Plugs republish, https://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/fouling-shortingout-problem-modern-plugs-champion-vs-ngk/, suggesting that the insulators of modern plugs in old cars get coated with deposits from petrol, which conduct away the spark. It doesn't happen in newer cars, says the author, because their computers and metering systems prevent this happening. And it only happens now because plug manufacturers have given up glazing their ceramic electrodes, so the conductive deposits can now stick.
In the past ten years has any more come to light on this topic? I don't enjoy driving a formerly reliable car not knowing whether I am going to suffer an embarrassing breakdown.

[MikeEdwards]

You can say that again!
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1976 Vauxhall HP Firenza, 1976 Vauxhall Sportshatch (x2), 1986 Audi coupe quattro, 2000 Audi TT

[bjacko]

Maybe try a set of new plugs.
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1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

[ukdave2002]

Or use a cooler plug?

[Rootes75]

I would try another set of plugs from a different manufacturer just to see if anything changes.
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Various Rootes Vehicles.