Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

Could you turn the taper on your lathe?

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4105 Location: South Cheshire

Could you turn the taper on your lathe?

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

It certainly looks like a possibility, doesn't it?

I was able to open out the other end but getting to the inside of the spinner might be more tricky. Confused

Miken · Joined: 24 Dec 2012 Posts: 544

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

Yes, that would work fine. Thank you for doing all that for me.

Another option I considered would be to turn a stepped ring with a taper on the outside that could be pinned/stuck to the existing flat surface.

After all, it's not going anywhere... Wink

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

Today I carried on trying to fit the D lamps to the number plate backing panel. The holes in the back plate do not quite line up with my D lamps so I have had to open them up with a round file.

Yesterday I had the frustration of a bulb holder breaking as I tried to get a reasonable fit so today I have made another one from scratch.

Here is my new bulb holder alongside the one to which it will be attached.

.

Here it is fitted to the lamp.

The trouble is not over yet. The design is quite poor and it was obvious that with the other lamp a short circuit would happen...

but in trying to correct the contact point, the insulation snapped. This is poor quality material but fortunately I have some old but very good quality thin insulation material.

This lamp is different in that the bulb holders are rivetted together rather than screwed. I shall use screws and nuts.

There seems to be a problem with the page size.

bjacko · Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2024 5:59 am Post subject: D Lamps

Why not fit a LED kit. They work very well and are brighter too.
_________________
1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

badhuis · Joined: 20 Aug 2008 Posts: 1391 Location: Netherlands

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

I have had a stroke of luck with the 'loose' spare wheel mounting. Having thought about it overnight, it has occurred to me that
the problem is not with the spinner but with the wheel and the way it fits on the mounting hub.

All I did was wrap some fabric insulating tape several times around the shoulder of the hub and replaced the wheel.

BINGO!!. It now fits tight as a bug in a rug. Very Happy

Aside from the hood, the outside back of the car is now finished.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

I have spent some time trying to figure out the best route for the capillary tube that goes between the radiator and the water temperature
gauge. The car would not originally have had a gauge so there is no provision for one. This is where my ideas conflict with originality as
- much to my angst - I have had to make a hole in the footwell. It will be grommeted and will match the existing arrangements for wiring
and oil pressure gauge pipework. The gauge, which was made to match the other British Jaeger instruments, will be sited on the instrument
panel in place of the horn button (which is now located on the far right of the dash) and will be located next to the oil pressure gauge.

I will fit the gauge when the dashboard is ready to be screwed on as too much bending about is not good for a capillary tube.

Another job that needed doing was fixing the odometer drive which, on this car, is a cable driven via a neat little gearbox off the back of
the dynamo...or in my case the Dynamator. One thing that other owners have reported is that the drive assembly can come loose even with
the brass clamp done up tight...and that was the case with my car.

After disconnecting the cable, I unscrewed the brass collar and removed the gearbox from the alternator. I then undid the screw and
removed the brass clamp from the short extension. Fortunately, it was a simple fix. With my Dremel, I removed some material from the
faces of the brass clamp thus allowing it to tighten further.

The photo shows what the outcome looks like.

bjacko · Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2024 4:02 am Post subject: Odometer Drive

Does that mean every time you run the engine it adds miles to the gauge?
_________________
1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6316 Location: Derby

peter scott · Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7118 Location: Edinburgh

Rear end is looking very nice indeed Ray. If you have enough length in the temperature gauge capillary then create a "springy" section where it connects at the engine.

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon