Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ray White]

The good news is that I now have a working ignition warning light!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

See here.......






Here is my schematic diagram for the relays (excepting indicators).

[ukdave2002]

Good news indeed, what was the fault?

[Ray White]

[ukdave2002]

Nothing wrong with Scotch Locks as long as they can't be seen!

However as with any IDC, for reliability it's critical the the correct combination of cable size and connecter is used.

[petelang]

As an apprentice at Lucas, if my mentor ever saw me use a scotchlock he would bat me round the head with whatever came to hand.
I've never used them since, but seen oh so many faults caused by them. Rubbish things. They also allow corrosion to enter your cables and you end up cutting out big sections to repair.
_________________
Daimler Fifteen 1934 (now sold)
Armstrong Siddeley 15 Long 1933
Daimler V8 250 1969

[Ray White]

I inherited the IDC Scotch Locks (insulation displacement contact) from my late Father in Law who was a retired auto electrician at a garage. I expect they were used to speed up repairs; not worrying about the long term.

Until speaking to another auto electrician I was unaware that they had a questionable reputation.
Although he didn't help with my car, he claimed to have made a lot of money from them!!

[ukdave2002]

The whole telecom industry worldwide moved from soldered to IDC connections in the 60's for reasons including reliability, literally millions of connections that had to work for decades.

I go back to my original point , that for reliability it's critical the the correct combination of cable size and connecter is used.

Unfortunately many folk ignored this, including auto electricians! the connecters are not waterproof yet have often been used in an exposed environment.

Its a bit like using a 1/4" UNF nut on an M6 bolt and then blaming the nut when it fails!

[Ray White]

Moving on from the ignition warning light saga; today I fitted the CSI electronic distributor. The general opinion is that of all the 16 available settings, the first one is best.

Establishing TDC is not as easy as it could be because there are no markings but there are ways round the problem.

One thing that I had not been warned about is that the clamping screw cannot locate in it's slot because the distributor body needs to rotate further than one would expect. I can see me extending the indent to accept the screw...unless there is another answer to it.

[Ray White]

The mystery as to why the CSI distributor could not turn far enough to allow the flashing blue light to remain on steady is solved. The original had a horizontal groove for the locking screw... and the new one has a vertical groove!

With the screw removed there is enough movement to allow the light to stay on.

It calls for a different method of clamping. Truth is that I have been supplied with a distributor for a Mini Cooper. At first I was worried but a call to the supplier helped. He has built many competition engines and has found the quick Mini distributor a better match for a bored out XPAG with fast road cam and supercharger than the one normally fitted to a TC.

I would liked to have fitted the original clamp with it's neat vernier adjuster...but unfortunately, the rivets have worn so it is not recommended. I am going to need a later one piece clamp as fitted to the TD and perhaps add a distance piece (thick washer) to compensate.

[Ray White]

My patience has been sorely tested recently. I thought I had sorted all the electrical gremlins but then every thing died.

After a lot of searching I discovered a loose connector on a wire that feeds the ammeter. It is quite a heavy duty spade connector and was part of the new loom that I bought from Auto Sparks...I would have expected better from them.

I have now soldered on a new connector and (dare I say it) made a pretty decent job of it. Every one of my connectors - mainly bullet types - are soldered on, so I have developed a technique for doing them. I even do them in my sleep!!!

The upshot of all this work is that I now have a healthy spark at the plugs for the first time in nearly 5 years! With oil in the sump, water/antifreeze mix in the engine and petrol in the tank I am just about ready to see if she will run!

.

[Keith D]

Getting very close now, Ray! I hope you make a video for us all to see when you start her up.

Keith
_________________
1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

The much anticipated start up has had to be put on hold. I have no oil pressure.

I did have oil pressure when I checked the compression but that was a long time ago.

These engines are notorious for this. You have to pack the pump gears with Vaseline to get the initial oil pressure and this is what I will have to do again.
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The oil pump is now packed with Vaseline. Tomorrow I will also prime the filter. With any luck, the oil pressure will be restored. If it's not...then I don't know.

[Ray White]

Another day worrying about having no oil pressure. Someone suggested I might have an air lock.

First I removed the spark plugs making the engine easier to turn over. I then jacked up the car so that one rear wheel was on the ground.

Then with the priming hole plug removed from the pump I inserted a small, narrow funnel with a length of clear plastic tubing attached which I filled with engine oil.

With a forward gear engaged I rotated the free wheel anti clockwise. The effect of turning the engine backwards forced the pump to suck in the oil from the funnel; removing the air lock.

It worked. I can now turn the engine over on the starter and it shows good oil pressure.


Now the petrol pump has stopped working.

[ukdave2002]

SU fuel pumps that have been standing for a while are prone to the contacts oxidising, normally they just require a quick clean.