Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Miken]

Last year I mentioned on this forum that my truck was pinking. I tried using a better quality fuel and an additive, also tried retarding he ignition. As the miles went on the noise became a rattle and then a clonk on start up. It was obvious that something more serious was wrong with the engine. A couple of years before this I had purchased a BMC B-series engine from a Wolseley 1500 with the intention of fitting it one day. I rebuilt the engine but never got round to fitting it. Last Novemeber I decided that with the noises coming from the A40 engine it was time for an engine swap.
I have an original owners handbook for 1954 Austin commercials and it describes the servicing for the B-Series engine (albeit only 1200cc). So I think 1954 must have been a cross over year because my truck had the earlier A40 engine.
It was quite hard work because nothing fitted and I had the complete engine/gearbox in and out 3 times before I was finished.
I was back on the road a couple of days before Christmas and have now done about 800 miles, so nearly run in.

Here is the new engine fitted

[Miken]

Here is a picture of the 1200cc A40 engine (on the left) next to the 1500 B-Series which evolved from it.
They look very similar but share no common components.
Even the dynamo wouldnt fit due to the 2 engines using a different width fan belt and and the dynamo shaft was a different diameter so couldnt just swap the pulley.
To use the A40 gearbox you have to discard the cast iron B-series engine backplate and drill the pressed steel A40 backplate to suit the new engine so that you can use the original gearbox. Then the flywheel doesnt fit the bell housing so the earlier flywheel has to be machined to fit the crankshaft. This allows you to use the A40 starter motor. Hurrah! Unfortunatel my old starter motor promptly decided to give up. So I needed a new one after all. The new engine is about 20mm longer so the front engine mounts have to be altered. when fittting the engine I then discovered that the new engine is also about 16mm wider so took it out and altered the mountings again.
I have used the Wolsey manifold and SU carburettor so a new exhaust pipe had to be fabricated from stainless steel. My neighbour donated some nice swept stainless elbows that were just the job for this. The wider engine means that the gearchange cross shaft doesnt quite fit so that had to be shortened before it would fit.

[Miken]

Incidently, One of the improvements made to the B-series engine is the lubrication system which is a "full flow" system.
Oil is drawn from the sump and forced through the oil filter. Then on to the crankshaft where it lubricates all the soft metal bearings. then on to the other working parts and back to the sump. Any left over pressure lifts the oil pressure relief valve.
On the original A40 engine it uses a "by-pass" system which isnt so clever. Oil is pumped to the crankshaft and all the soft metal bearings, then on to everywhere else. Any remaining pressure goes to a T where the oil either diverts to the filter or back to the sump. Any excess pressure lifts the OPRV.

[Ray White]

You did well to notice the different backplates. I had the same issue when trying to mate an A series 1098 engine to an A30 gearbox.

You can guess how I found out about that!!

[Miken]

[Miken]

I was having trouble with rust in my fuel supply. I fitted an inline filter a couple of years ago but that occasionally blocked.
The A40 engine has a Delco mechanical fuel pump operated from a 9th lobe on the camshaft. This is a robust unit that seems to keep on pumping when its full of rusty debris. But this is not ideal.
The B engine does not have a mounting point on the cylinder block for a mechanical pump (although strangely it does have a extra lobe on the camshaft). The Wolseley 1500 uses an electrical fuel pump.
I purchased a new SU fuel pump from Burlen systems but did not like the idea of it having to suck rusty debris through so I decided to have a look inside the fuel tank to see what could be done..
Peering through the sender aperture I could see that the inside of the tank was horribly rusty and flaky.
I could look around for a repacement tank which could take a long time (im not very patient) and be just as bad, but in January I decided to fabricate a new tank from stainless steel.
The old tank has rounded corners and the new one has square corners so I had to reshape the hole in the floor at the back of the truck a bit so it would fit.
I had a 6mm thick alloy plate laser cut to stiffen this area up and the tank is now suspended by 2 x 50mm wide straps.
I TIG welded the tank itself from 1.5mm thick 304 stainless.
It has 2 internal baffles like the old one.
The flange for the sender unit was turned from a slice of round bar.
For some reason I made the new tank about 25mm taller than the old one and what with the square corners it holds about 12 litres more than the original one.

The last pic shows my homemade exhaust .

[Miken]

In one of the pictures you can see that the top of the tank slopes dowwards a bit to the rear. I did this to make it easiser to slide the spare wheel in. The spare wheel rests partly on top of the tank.

[bjacko]

That looks pretty good and nice neat welds.
I got my tank made for me and he used plated (Cadmium I think) steel. It's a cylindrical tank and he used fittings from an old tank. The fittings and the tank are all soldered.
_________________
1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

[Ray White]

I know I couldn't do as well and had to pay for a new stainless steel tank to be made.

[Miken]

Was out in the truck yesterday when it suddenly backfired and the engine stopped. Fortunately I was able to roll to a safe place by the side of the road. Bonnet up, no spark.
I have fitted the Pertronix electronic ignition from the old A40 engine to my new engine and this had failed. Fortunately, I carry a new spare for just this eventuality (I only purchased the spare a couple of weeks ago). I was able to fit it and continue home 40 minutes later. This morning I had a look online and found a MGA (same engine) forum. Owners on there were discussing the failure rate of the Pertronix. I've now lost confidence in this electronic system and have decided to go back to the original points arrangement.

[Miken]

New points, condenser and rotor arm finally arrived from the Distributor Doctor this afternoon (Monday, took 7 days to arrive! and Sent 1st class).
Fitted and went for short drive to make sure it's ok.
After dinner went for 50 mile drive to make double sure.
Now done over 1000 miles on new 1500 engine since Cristmas.
Might have to go out again tomorrow to make triple sure.
I Feel more confident now I've ditched the electronic ignition.

[Ray White]

[Miken]

Today, I got round to doing something I should have done years ago. When I drive my truck I have a constant clanking and rattling from the drivers door. I finally got round to investigating it. Removing the door card revealed the door lock/catch. It had a lot of play and wear in the various moving parts.
The lock assembly is held together with rivets. I drilled the hollow swaged out ends off which allowed me to dismantle it.
The die casting with the square hole for the door handle was badly worn so I machined it undersize and fitted 2 bronze journals. I trued up the 5/8" dameter holes in the 2 side plates with a 16mm reamer.
The main operating lever for the lock rubs against a cam. Cam and lever were both badly worn. I was able to build the worn areas up with weld and re profile with a file.
I suppose I should have made new rivets but I chose to fit the cover plate in place and secure each (now) headless rivet with a touch of weld . If I have to do the job again in another 70 years, Ill worry about getting it apart then.
The vehicle is now a lot quiter and pleasant to drive.
Plus;
The drivers door handle should be horizontal when not in use. Due to wear mine always sagged down at a sorry looking angle. Now, after this work it snaps back up to the horizontal. So, I am pleased with my mornings work

[Ray White]

I often see otherwise nice restorations spoilt by sagging door handles. I always imagined there was a reason why they had not been attended to...now I see that all it would take would be a little application....a degree of skill would also help.

[petelang]

Nice work. Good for another 60 years!
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Daimler Fifteen 1934 (now sold)
Armstrong Siddeley 15 Long 1933
Daimler V8 250 1969