Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

I have spent some time this afternoon trying to get the steering wheel boss to go onto the shaft. It seems to have been pinched in the middle so will only allow the splines to pass each other for about an inch; then it stops.

I have tried forcing the slot to open up a bit but so far no luck. I suppose I should send it back again before I make a mess of it.

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4288 Location: South Cheshire

Heat is probably your best option, wait until we have a cold day, put the boss in the oven, hopefully with the column cold and the boss hot you will then have enough clearance to fit.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

Having spoken with the the very helpful Melvyn Rutter again today, I shall be returning the boss to him. The one I received was a new replacement and it seems like it is just 'Sods Law' that it is too tight for the shaft. This problem is something of a mystery to Melvyn who is naturally concerned that he may have a bad batch in his stock.!

Melvyn Rutter, of course, is a Morgan Main Agent. I would imagine - if my experience is typical - that his customers are well satisfied with the level of service on offer.

I can't help thinking...perhaps I should have bought a Morgan! Razz

alastairq · Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 2146 Location: East Yorkshire

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4288 Location: South Cheshire

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

Today I noticed that the insulating material to the underside of the deck lid had come unstuck. I therefore removed the insulation before it caused a problem.

Having completed the brake servo system and re fitted the seat and rear deck, I gave the brakes a final bleed.

(I do this on my own with a very simple self bleed tube depositing fluid into a glass jar... and a Victorian dressing table mirror that allows me to see - from the driving seat - any bubbles being emitted.)

Once I was happy with the brakes, I ensured there was adequate brake fluid in the remote reservoir. I then fitted the wheels and lowered the car. I think of all the improvement to an original design that I have done, the remote reservoir is my favourite.

When I started the engine I noticed the supercharger belt adjuster - a jockey wheel - was loose and wobbly. With the jockey wheel removed, I realised that the design was poor and would never work as intended.

Unable to find a suitable distance piece, I wrapped some 3/8" ID washers in amalgamating tape and dropped them onto the the bolt. I then let it into the jockey wheel and tightened with a locking nut. With the jockey wheel re attached to it's arm, I adjusted the supercharger belt and once enough slack had been removed, I tightened the arm and started the engine.

The jockey wheel/ belt adjuster seems to now be working as it should.

I was able to drive the car in and out of the garage and test the brakes. They seem to work O.K.

What is not O.K. is the rev counter which has stopped working. It had previously shown erratic behaviour... but now has packed up completely. I presume the cable has broken but will not know for sure until I have investigated.

.

Keith D · Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2025 3:45 am Post subject:

Nearly there Ray! You must be getting excited (and relieved!). Remember that we all want to see a video of the car being driven on the road by you.

Keith
_________________
1926 Chrysler 60 tourer
1932 Austin Seven RN long wheelbase box sedan
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4288 Location: South Cheshire

I'm pretty sure repro gearbox's are available, I looked at one for a completely different project , but the ratio's were not correct.

If it is faulty you have nothing to loose by opening up, it can only have a couple of gears that you may be able to fix.

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

Ray White · Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7304 Location: Derby

I looked at the ends of the cable and there is no provision for a retaining ring.

With the cable fully inserted into the gauge and the gear box disconnected from the drive, I rotated the input shaft by hand... and with the aid of a mirror on the seat, watched the dial for any signs of life. There was none.

The instruments fitted to these earlier T series Midgets are 'chronometric' as opposed to magnetic and are normally pretty reliable. The downside is that they have an incredibly involved - if not complicated - clock type mechanism.

I have an idea of how chronometric instruments should work but I am unfamiliar with the causes of their failure to do so. In other words; I don't know what is wrong so have little idea about how to fix it.

An interesting description is detailed here:

https://www.mg-tc.de/articles/JaegerChronometricInstruments.html

bjacko · Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2025 5:39 am Post subject: Speedo Problem

Having been off the road for some time it may be a bit of corrosion and a drop of oil or spray of WD40 or Lithium may cure your problem. My Morris 8 had this problem and broke the cable due to seizing up. Some lube into the speedo and freed it up and it has been OK for the last 30 years. (with a new cable - of course)
_________________
1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP