Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

Having fixed the warning light and checked out that everything else on the dashboard works O.K., I struggled to get the leather edge that is trapped by the chrome bezel out of the hole but eventually I succeeded in making a neat job of it.

Since then, I have been going over the car tightening things up etc. I noticed that the front valance bolts (chrome) were quite loose and needed tweaking. The n/s front wing also seemed a bit loose. I had missed out one of the two 10mm bolts that secures the side light but when replaced, all the movement evaporated.

Then I noticed a flaw in the paint. It was only small so I attempted to buff it out ...only to make matters worse. It was now highly visible so I have been forced to mask off the area again and get painting again.

.

[JC T ONE]

[Ray White]

[alastairq]

I also have tried, with success, silicon RTV for keeping nuts & bolts tight, & in situ...especially underneath.

Merely squeezing a tiny blob over a nut, or exposed bit of thread, can stop it undoing inadvertently.
The main advantage in my eyes being, to eventually undo, all one needs to do is peel off the silicon.....
I recall seeing a GT6 underneath, with a multitude of orange blobs....Dismantling the thing would have been easy..the orange blob identified where a fixing was, and once peeled off, there was a reasonably clean thread to help the undoing.

Although I'm not recommending orange a a colour, of course..but if one's Loctite is past its 'use-by' date, then a small blob of silicon is better than forgetting about it.
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

The reason for those loose nuts and bolts is simply that I have not tightened them. The front wings and valance have had to come off several times and as I am suffering with memory loss the final tightening got forgotten.

I am also easily distracted which doesn't help.

I can only hope I have not forgotten something vital...

[ukdave2002]

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

This morning I noticed a strong smell of petrol.

...No...surely not???

Well yes . The sender unit seal - a new rubber one - is leaking!

I could hardly believe that all my work has been in vain. The new paint is ruined. Again!

I could cry.

[alastairq]

[Ray White]

I have started the draining down process. First the spare wheel has to come off. This is done by knocking the spinner anticlockwise, until the assembly can be withdrawn. This, is to my mind, is a wonderful piece of engineering; involving a spring loaded key that ensures the MG logo remains upright regardless of the position of the spinner once it is fully tightened,

Next the spare wheel carrier is removed. This is a heavy duty 3 piece tubular structure bolted to the chassis rails and the rear cross member. Again, a very nice, solid part of the car.

With the spare wheel and carrier out of the way there is better access to the drain tap.
(This is a lever arm ball valve; part of the new electronic hydrostatic petrol gauge system that I added to compliment the original low level warning light.)

Despite the limited ground clearance there is just sufficient space to allow an old washing up bowl to be slid under the drain tap without having to raise the car. While doing this work I have been wearing protective gloves and taking care not to spill petrol on the ground.

When enough of the petrol has been drained out, the supply and earth wires can be removed from the sender unit along with the six perimeter screws. With the sender unit out, I can check the area for flatness.

A new cork gasket is on order but while awaiting delivery, I can mask off the area and remove the petrol ruined paint and prepare for spraying.

...again!

[bjacko]

Ray, your efforts remind me of the tale of Robert Bruce and the spider our teacher told us about 1948. Where he continually fought on after watching a spider keep remaking it's web over and over, until it got it right. he went on and won the battle!
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1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

[Ray White]

[Ray White]

The surface appears to be flat enough so I would think the fault lies with the rubber gasket.

Next time it will be good old cork!

Anyway, with the area rubbed down and masked off the next job is to apply a couple of primer coats. Being stainless steel, I am using a 'Jenolite' primer which is specifically designed for "difficult surfaces".

Here we go again!...

[norustplease]

What kind of paint are you using? Most automotive finishes are petrol resistant, apart from oil based coach type paint.
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1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1973 VW Beetle 1303L
Boring Suzuki SX Hybrid