Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ray White]

[ukdave2002]

Ray , 70 is the new 50

I suspect that unless you can hit the spring really squarely, it will be tending to twist and bind on the bush or shackle, thus making it much more difficult to remove?

I'm still minded that some sort of spreader (between the chassis leg & the spring) with a more gentle action is the solution. Do you have a brake pad calliper spreader, that could be used with some wooden packers to ease the spring off?

I have a hydraulic body repair kit that has a couple of fittings that I'm sure would get the spring off in no time, if there is a friendly body shop locally then might lend you theirs?

[Ray White]

[alastairq]

_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

Hi Alastair. That would work with a socket.

I believe its is a brake caliper piston spreader tool?

Thanks.

[alastairq]

it is indeed a brake caliper piston spreader tool.

One of many different designs of tool for the same purpose.

I have two types....and found the above tool the easiest to use if the caliper was 'off!'

Not costly for occasional use, either.

However, in its normal environment, the handle makes it a bit awkward.

Worth a try, perhaps?
_________________
Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
----------------------------------------------
Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[Ray White]

Thanks Alastair.

Fortunately the spring is now off.

I will post more when I get photos.

.

[Ray White]

I thought you guys might like to see what I used to remove the spring. This is a puller that my Dad made many years ago. As a tool maker by trade this sort of thing was second nature to him.

With an old 1/2" drive socket in the open end and the square drive pressing over a bracket rivet on the chassis and the hex head pushing against the edge of the spring, I was easily able to turn the hex head and eventually remove the spring from the pin.

Unfortunately, the silent block bush separated leaving the steel inner stuck to the pin and the remainder left in the eye of the spring.

If Jones springs want the ends clear of bushings etc I will need to remove the remainder of the bush ...which makes it unlikely that I could get away with putting it back as is.

Getting that steel sleeve off the pin will be fun!



As a matter of interest, the off side spring simply pulled off.!

[Ray White]

I said getting that bush off the shackle pin would be fun and someone was definitely having a laugh.

I could have got it off sooner with heat but I was nervous about the close proximity of the wooden body. As it happened it took quite a time but eventually with the aid of my trusty dremmel with a cutting disc and a pair of Stilsons and a trolly jack I was able to move it.

It still took a 2lb hammer and a cold chisel to get it off. Seen here is the offending article now looking a bit the worse for wear!

[Ray White]

An update.
So, I have cleaned and packed up the rear springs ready for delivery to Jones Springs in Durlston. Jean has kindly offered to drop them into the factory for me when she pays a visit to a relative next week. That will save me ?100 in fuel.

In the meantime, I have turned my attention to something that has always bugged me about the TC. The rubber gearbox cover. Although I bought a new one a while back, I have never liked the look of it. It may do the job as intended but in my opinion it was always a cheap and nasty Abingdon cost cutting measure.

I decided early on that despite what the purists might have to say about keeping the original appearance, I would cover over the horrid black rubber cover; either in carpet or - better still - in leather. This I have done and I am pretty satisfied with the result because it matches the rest of the interior.

Of course, I could not leave the job unfinished so I have added a matching new gear knob.

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Anyone who has ever driven a car with a weighted gear knob will know what a transformation it makes to gear changing. Smoother, lighter and more precise; it generally gives an improved experience and is well worth doing.

I made mine from some 1.5" solid bronze bar. Yes, an extravagance I know, but it is ideal for the purpose.

I had to experiment but eventually settled for a 3" piece into which I drilled and tapped a thread the same as the gear lever; using in this case a 17/64" drill bit and a M8 x 1mm HSS tap. (Note the "mad metrics"). I opened out both ends to 1/2"; at the underside to allow the knob to screw down over the shoulder on the lever and at the top to remove surplus material / weight.




I then wrapped some leather around the bronze; sticking sufficient material to allow for a chrome sleeve to fit tightly on the top.

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I then stuck a final covering of leather which abutted the edge of the sleeve giving it a neat, smooth surface.



To finish off the gear knob I added a plastic 5 speed and reverse guide that dropped into the rebate in the top.

I think it looks reasonably professional ...but it is, of course, a matter of personal choice.

The original 4 speed gearbox (complete with Bakelite knob) will stay with the car should a future owner wish to go back to original spec.

[Ray White]

Now my brake lights have stopped working ...and I don't know why. At first I thought perhaps it was something to with the petrol leak soaking the wires that run under the tank... but the panel lights have packed up as well - which should come on with the side lights (on my car) - so the problem isn't there. The side lights are O.K..

There his no power getting to the brake light switch and all the fuses are in tact so that narrows it down a bit but until I investigate further, I can only speculate.


=============================================================================

Problem sorted. It was a poor connection at the control box. Why I hadn't tightened the connection properly I shall probably never know...getting old I suppose.

[JC T ONE]

[ukdave2002]

[Ray White]

I would never again complicate things in the way I have with this project. I had read about these cars going up in flames due to electrical faults (mainly in America) and decided to build in resilience by adding extra fuses and relays. The downside is over complication and possibly reliability issues.

Only time will tell.

At present the finish is on hold as I need to have my rear springs re set to correct a ride height issue.

As it happens, the brake lights are still not working. I could have sworn that the connection at the control box was the reason ...but as with everything to do with this car, it is never that simple...

.

[Ray White]

I have worked out what is wrong with the brakes lights. For once, it is not electrical.

There is a spring that hooks into a small hole at the bottom of the brake pedal and a similar hole in the control arm of the brake light switch.

When the pedal is depressed, the spring should pull on the brake switch control arm and operate the brake lights.

When the pedal is released the spring pulls the pedal back to it's resting position while at the same time allows the switch arm to retract and consequently the lights go out.

As the original spring had failed I replaced it with a new one. As it happens even with the pedal fully adjusted the spring is a bit too long and has not quite enough "pull" to operate the switch.

The situation is made more difficult as the servo seems to have eliminated any "give" in the system. In other words, the brake pedal needs to travel more than it does now to operate the brake lights.

I can get the lights to work by physically pulling on the switch arm; so at least I know it is something I can play with until I get it right but how to make the adjustment that is needed is - at present - beyond me.

I will have to think about this one!

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