Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Rustynail]

Hello
I have a wolseley 680 i have taken everthing off ready for sanding and respray once i have sanded it what primer do i use do i use a primer filler then is it a top coat then clear my brother inlaw said you do 3 top coats and on the last coat you mix your clear with it then do 2 coats of clear is this right and what is the best paint to give me the creamiest and glossiest paint job remember i have only painted vintage stationary engines i wont be painting until the summer when its very hot the paint will go on better wont it any help and tips and what stages i have to do it in would be greatley appreciated
Regards Rustynail

[Rich5ltr]

What paint will you be using? I've only ever used cellulose

[Greeney in France]

As I have said before I now use 2k paints as I have a decent mask I have an airfed one and other but correctly filtered.
Are you painting metallic? that is normally the route for this but I know some people like to add a clear lacquer coat even in cellulose solid colour
All bare metal must be etch primed first, the primer filler coat is ok but better on a bare metalled car, not really a good idea over just flatted paintwork as it can "move" over the surface of the paint. It is better just using a normal not hi-build primer
Saying this it is only my experience i am by no means professional at it.
I do like the 2k paints though, very forgiving and after 24hrs are hard and easy to flat to a very good finish
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[peppiB]

I have just repainted (cellulose) my landcrab. It was smooth so i didn't need primer/filler just good old grey primer. The last time I used the primer/filler on another car, it reacted with the cellulose paint already on there and I ended up having to strip it back to bare metal. When I use cellulose I give the first 2 coats on a 50/50 mixture of paint to thinners, followed by 2 coats of 25% paint 75% thinners and then I finish the surface with just thinners. That system works for me - others may disagree.

When I repaired vandal damage on the boot lid of my merc I used basecoat and lacquer. If you imagine the paint as custard, when a skin is formed but it is still 'soft' underneath, the lacquer is applied. It reacts with the basecoat to produce the finished colour and several layers of lacquer could be needed to produce the high gloss of a modern car.

My Morris Minor is sprayed in 2 pack which is the easiest paint I have found to use and covers minor blemishes - BUT in the interests of safety a designated spray bay was used, with breathing apparatus. It can look as rough as anything when first dry, but a foam bonnet and cutting paste soon has it shining. Some paint factors will not supply 2 pack to the general public because of the isocyanates which are formed when the hardener is added

[Uncle Joe]

Its only my humble opinion, but if I was going to spray a car, then it would be down to bare metal, and use a self etch primer. I've said this before on here, but to just flat the paint is asking for trouble later.

For the new members, theres a good link on one of the other painting topics describing how to refinish...