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fuel sender repairs
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Greeney in France



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 1173
Location: Limousin area of France

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: fuel sender repairs Reply with quote

This is for you electronic genii amongst you:lol:
Here is one of my fuel senders (I have 3) I want to make a good one out of the 3.
How do I test to make sure its working other than wiring it up with gauge?
That resistance wound wire section in the top is where the slider bars touch so I will clean this up, and clean the terminals but I put a continuity test either end of the wire and it doesnt read or bleep at me does that mean its broken?
Why does it have the little brass tube with arm and plunger when I have a 2cv one that looks similar but doesn't have one?
And anything else you can tell me Thank you

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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
Posts: 6200
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Greeney,

I suspect the brass tube has a little piston in it and acts to stop the fuel gauge needle bouncing up and down when you drive over bumps.

Sorry, I can't access a (proper British) sender at the moment but I would have thought the resistance should be something in the range 500 to 5000 ohms but that's pure guess. I'd have thought that if there was a break in the wire then you'd be able to see it with a magnifying glass.

Peter
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Last edited by peter scott on Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1882
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you a meter with a resistance scale? If so: set it to low and connect one lead to the terminal, the other to the body. When you move the lever the resistance should change. Alternatively: if you have an old gauge, connect the sender, battery and gauge in series and operate the lever. Having no continuity reading on the winding may mean that the resistance is too high for for the tester to operate, better to rely on reading the resistance. Check that the lever has not built up insulation on the bearing surfaces by checking continuity between the lever and the body.
I went through all this a couple of years ago when I had the same problems with a Standard 8.

Don.
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Jim.Walker



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 1233
Location: Chesterfield

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trying for continuity at each end of the wiring may lead you up the 'garden path'. Power will normally flow from the live end of the winding and to earth via the wiper. Try continuity testing between the live end and various points on the track left by the wiper. You should get continuity unless/until you pass a break in the winding. If you can locate a break a bit of careful soldering to bridge the gap should not impair performance too much, even if that means unwinding one coil to make the ends meet.

The tube is undoubtedly a damper. I have come across a similar setup on Peugeot cars.

After I originally posted this I found I had missed Pigtins contribution. Everything he says is valid. If you are using a test lamp for the continuity testing the resistance may well be too great to get a result.
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Greeney in France



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 1173
Location: Limousin area of France

PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for all that info
I have completed it now the sender has be dismantled and cleaned, put back together and tested, I got the resistance measured too and yes I was not doing it correctly I have a sealey digital and instead of measuring it I was doing a bleep test. It was too high as it only bleeps below 50
I changed the old cork float for a plastic one from a 2cv

I could have just bought new ones at 60 for the pair but its much more fun repairing what you have even if it is in a barn with minus 10 outside
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