Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[The_ Yellow_Ardvark]

Trafficators

Help!!!!!!!!!!!

What is going wrong? What am I doing wrong?

I have a 2 litre 2 door 1952 AC with trafficators; they are driving me further round the bend. They work, they don’t they work then don’t.

I have taken them of the car, cleaned them, tested them and they work of the car when connected to a good battery. They Draw 12 volts, 10 amps at start to lift the arm and light the bulb. When in the up position they draw 12 volts 2 to 3 amps.

When fitted to the car they work when they feel like it. The trick off giving them a knock sometimes cures them.

The wiring to them has bean replaced, along with a good earth to them. I have the same Volts and amps when they are working. When they don’t I have no constant results to try to pin point the fault.

What’s worse is that all off a sudden they bust in to normal working!!!!!!!

Everything connected with the trafficators has bean removed cleaned and tested of the car. It all works. Nevertheless, when fitted to the Bessy I can’t get them to work all the time.


Can anyone help?
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Wibble I am an orange.

[peter scott]

I would suspect your switch contacts in the steering manette.

Peter
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http://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Phil - Nottingham]

If they moev when jolting them its usually the traficator - this is one of the reasons why they were dispensed with costly, troublesome and not very visible

How have you cleaned them - the solenoid plunger must be smooth and not sticky throughout it length. Oli must no be used - graphite powder is best.

Do make sure you are getting full 12v at high current draw which these do at the traficator end.
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[The_ Yellow_Ardvark]

Thank you Phil and Peter.

Just to clear up a few points, yes they work when thumped. But not always.
I am getting battery volts/ charging volts at the trafficators when working or not. But the thing what is driving me further round the bend is you take them of the car and they work.

The switch contacts are clean and making full contact, the solenoid is lubricated with graphite powder.

On Saturday, I removed the whole system from the car, new wiring and all. Bench tested it all and it all works. Refitted it again. It worked.

This morning, out of curiosity, I tested them, near side worked, the other didn’t. Just after lunch tested again. Both working, with engine on and off.
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Wibble I am an orange.

[SloResto]

Maybe check that the earths are OK. Happened to me after I painted the car.. the earths were broken as they were covered with thick paint film! Solenoid earth to bonnet stay a main culprit.

[Keith D]

Trafficators always seem to be a very dangerous problem. My friend's prewar Austin Goodwood has the exact problem you have. When the generator is shoving 14-16 volts into the system, they usually seem to work. When the lights are on and the engine is slow running, they don't!

However, despite the temptation to keep everything original, it is still your life you are putting on the line if they fail. My friend mounted a very smart set of motorcycle flasher units on his bumper to flash in addition to the trafficators and will hopefully stay alive longer!!!

Keith D

[PAUL BEAUMONT]

Like others, been there and got the "T" shirt. I understand where Keith D is coming from, but I can also understand the wish to have the bl**dy things working.
I would suspect those horrid connectors on the units where the bullet(ish)connectors push in, but I suggest some scientific investigation. using one of the screwdriver type testers, (or a meter or, if all fails a bulb with some wire soldered to it) wait until one of the perishers does not work and then check if you have current to it. If you do, the problem lies in the unit. If you do not, check if a separate earth completes the circuit. If no change run a wire from the battery to the live side and check if it works. once you have established where it is failing it should be a matter of back tracking down the loom for the offending joint (which might be the switch).
Mine are only 6v but after some hassle they work reliably!!
good luck - sadly there is nothing likely to give more enjoyment on an old car than an intermittent electrical fault!!
PAUL

[Glenn Crawford]

I'd go furtehr than Paul and say use a voltmeter, not a test light; one for cars which reads up to about 15V. You need to see how much of your car's precious 12V is getting to the trafficator, and make sure you connet the "earthy" side of your meter to the case of the trafficator - that way you'll get a true reading. I wouldn't be surprised that when you measure it you'll find it's only about 9 or 10V - its behaviour will be erratic at that sort of voltage, the solenoid inside needs to "snap" vigorously into life to overcome the trafficator's locking mechanism and propel it to the "up" position.

There is another possibility, and that's to do with the angle at which it's mounted, though I think on your AC they are vertical aren't they?

Let us know what you find.

I keep my Riley RM's trafficators operational, they are a nice period feature - but I've put extra light clusters perched on the back bumper with flashers in, and the front sidelights are converted to flash amber when indicating. I wouldn't like to drive any further than my garden gate without flashers!

[Roverron]

Trafficators not working as you describe need a new pivot making on a lathe. The pivot doesn't wear evenly. It means stripping the unit right down. Lubricating and cleaning won't be a permanent solution. Banging the door pillar gives a 'kick start' so that the arm moves slightly and thus overcomes the flat spot on the pivot. Having said all that, I fitted flashing indicators to my Rover as I realised anybody who was driving when Trafficators were originally fitted was probably quite elderly and younger drivers (anybody under 60) don't look for them.
Incidently Trafficators is a trade name for Lucas's semaphore indicators so I used a capital T.
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